Modified XJ Cherokee Tech XJ (84-01)
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Old Feb 14, 2014 | 02:49 PM
  #16  
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From: Albuquerque New Mexico
Year: 2000
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Originally Posted by tmac
The caster adjustment on the upper mount. Don't try and tell us thats as strong as a JJ or a heim. Why even chance it when you could avoid it?
If ultimate strength is what you desire, why not cut off the uniframe and put a real ladder frame underneath? It would be much stronger.

I just don't see it as a spot that needs the utmost strength. It may not be as strong as a JJ or heim buy why does it need to be? It obviously works just fine the way it is.

Out of the hundreds of kits sold, what percentage of people who run the kit actually has something bad to say about it? .5%, maybe?
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Old Feb 14, 2014 | 03:08 PM
  #17  
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From: Eaton Co
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by XJwonders
Radius arms
Its only half radius arm.
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Old Feb 14, 2014 | 05:38 PM
  #18  
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From: The corner of Grey St.
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Originally Posted by superbee1970440
If ultimate strength is what you desire, why not cut off the uniframe and put a real ladder frame underneath? It would be much stronger.

I just don't see it as a spot that needs the utmost strength. It may not be as strong as a JJ or heim buy why does it need to be? It obviously works just fine the way it is.

Out of the hundreds of kits sold, what percentage of people who run the kit actually has something bad to say about it? .5%, maybe?
Like I said in the beginning, if you have are looking to buy long arms and the price is comparable, why would you not buy the better of the options? Now, back on topic.

OP, depending on your price range, the Clayton kit is very nice as is the one from serious offroad. Just a couple suggestions. Good luck with it. You'll love how the LAs ride and flex.
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Old Feb 14, 2014 | 05:42 PM
  #19  
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Um, very first post he states he is running LA's already...
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Old Feb 14, 2014 | 06:10 PM
  #20  
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http://tandjperformance.com/
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Old Feb 14, 2014 | 06:24 PM
  #21  
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From: City of Trees, CA
Year: 93 2 door
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Originally Posted by XJmike0122
What would you call it then?
a "fixed" y-link I guess. why in gods green earth you would want your single upper arm welded completely solid to the lower beats the **** outta me. but hey, "it offers mad flecks bro, you know it's true because Iron Rock said so "
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Old Feb 14, 2014 | 08:17 PM
  #22  
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Year: 98
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 i6
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Originally Posted by XJwonders
I have RockKrawler 3 link... Beefy as hell. Haven't installed it yet but I have heard really good reviews from other guys who ran it.
I love how their kits are 1,500 and still have aals..
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Old Feb 14, 2014 | 08:20 PM
  #23  
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From: west chester, pa
Year: 1999
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Originally Posted by Michael952
I love how their kits are 1,500 and still have aals..
I didn't get the whole kit. I just got the arms. My lift comes from elsewhere.
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Old Feb 15, 2014 | 12:54 AM
  #24  
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From: Eaton Co
Year: 2001
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Id go with the RockKrawler 3 link over the Clayton two reasons. 1) The Clayton 3 link is way over built for what I need 2) The RK is bolt on.
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Old Feb 15, 2014 | 06:47 AM
  #25  
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People cry out about the fact that RK 3 link doesn't have a crossmember. The reason I went with it because I'm building my own custom crossmember with belly skid.
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Old Feb 16, 2014 | 11:09 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by superbee1970440
If ultimate strength is what you desire, why not cut off the uniframe and put a real ladder frame underneath? It would be much stronger.

I just don't see it as a spot that needs the utmost strength. It may not be as strong as a JJ or heim buy why does it need to be? It obviously works just fine the way it is.

Out of the hundreds of kits sold, what percentage of people who run the kit actually has something bad to say about it? .5%, maybe?

I run the iron rock long arms. I've put about 1000 miles on them. Took it to king of the hammers and drove it pretty gently through the sand. Went under the xj today to add a bit more caster and noticed that the adjuster was taco'ed by way of hitting the center section of the dana 30. Loosened the nuts on the adjuster and 4 of 5 were loose (all torqued to specs 1000 miles ago). Wasn't able to adjust it much due to the bent adjuster. Torqued it all back down except for one of the smaller nuts stripped before getting to the required torque. Now imagine if I had larger than stock tires or lockers?
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Old Feb 17, 2014 | 01:25 AM
  #27  
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From: City of Trees, CA
Year: 93 2 door
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damn Will I didn't know you were running the IRO stuff. glad to hear nothing really bad happened. what kit are you gonna try next?
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Old Feb 17, 2014 | 01:46 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Atmos
damn Will I didn't know you were running the IRO stuff. glad to hear nothing really bad happened. what kit are you gonna try next?
Go with TnT
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Old Feb 17, 2014 | 08:26 AM
  #29  
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Year: 1999
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Originally Posted by tmac
If you already have long arms, why would you be looking to buy long arms?
teraflex kit technically isnt long arms
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Old Feb 17, 2014 | 08:28 AM
  #30  
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From: West Springfield, MA
Year: 1999
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Originally Posted by XJmike0122
Id go with the RockKrawler 3 link over the Clayton two reasons. 1) The Clayton 3 link is way over built for what I need 2) The RK is bolt on.
your logic is irrational being overbuilt is good and will last you have a jeep and wheel it i presume how can something be "overbuilt"

Last edited by mcguyver_xj; Feb 17, 2014 at 08:34 AM.
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