ZJs do not run a uniball setup... arms only on the rear for us thanks. WJs use the uniball.

This is some backyard hackery going on and would appear very sketchy.

 

I have a great Cherokee guy here, He's going to help me get the upper's resecured to get away from the rear diff cover bolts and come up with a cross member support for the unibody Thanks for all the info guys.

 

Looks like he got himself a parted out WJ suspension and went to town and picked himself a HF 90A welder in the process.

 

Thanks for all the information, when you refer to WJ I assume you mean the Grand Cherokee 99-04, not sure how its relative to helping me as I'm sure the WJ doesn't have the set up on my XJ, please clarify what you believe came form an WJ. . Are you saying this is an WJ lift fitted on the XJ? Is that possible to make fit? I agree the welded mounts need to be redone, the uniball mount correctly installed with a customer rear made mount and the unibody stiffener if I take it wheeling.

 

The whole A arm setup is from a WJ. It is not a kit you can buy and was hodge podged onto your Jeep.
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Who knows how safe or properly built it is... But from what you say, not something I would trust.

 

Thanks for the insight. Yet another get'r right challenge.

 

Hi guys, I have to say you all had me pretty worried but.. It finally stopped raining and I got some better pictures. The the mount for the upper and lower control arms is also the unibody stiffener, all one piece that fits over the unibody to support the control arms, its welded and bolted on from the floor pan. The lager L bracked also is reinforced and mounted to what I think is one of the original leaf spring mounts. The spings on the axles



are reinforced on both sides and the upper mount is secured to the unibaody and through to the trunk pan. I haven't pulled the carpet up but for sure there are some bolts going through. I have no clue the brand though. I'll have a support made (or order one) to replace the diff mount.. I come back to ask if anyone can identify it with these better pics?,

 

What is so hard to believe that this is some rednecked garage one off, there's no brand that makes this. Looks like those link brackets are only partially welded between the sheet metal floor and the uniframe. What does the coil brackets look like?

 

thanks to all for the constructive comments. All but only one pointed to the rear. With a lift this size leaving the rear diff at the angle it is, the stock rear diff cover needed to be changed so the fill hole allows for the angle of the diff and the proper amount of fluid to keep the diff gears, bearings and seals lubed. Seems like one of you pro's spewing trash might have pointed to that instead of jumping to backyard hackery or rednecked garage bs, next time maybe look beyond the banter and use this as it was intended which is a user group forum, and sharing of information. We had to put a few bucks into the rear axle but its way better, much less vibration and riding like a champ..

 

Some of the comments made could be said better, but the long and short of it is that it appears to be a dangerous set up that was not professional put together. Yes we are here to help solve the problem presented by the owner, but we also should be obligated to point out when we feel something is a danger to the owner and all of the people on the road around them.

 

Pros spewing trash...good one.......when trying to help someone you have to assume a certain level of mechanical knowledge is present, and with that, that they have checked all the easy & basic stuff 1st, like fluid levels and greased/good u-joints and bearings, all bolts tight, etc.

In doing so, common sense dictates the vehicle owner/OP should already KNOW or at least REALIZE the potential issue with the fluid level in the rear diff due to the angle change and checked that first......yes, someone could have mentioned it, but if it wasn't already a known issue, he/she probably shouldn't be driving a modified vehicle.

Which is more likely the issue both noise/problem wise and safety wise....the backyard hackery (which includes the cover mounted links) or the possibly low fluid level ??


Glad it's doing better, but what were the 'few bucks' ya had to put into it to improve ? Was it just fluid ?? Did you swap out the cover and relocate the upper links mounting point ?

On all axles I've run in the past that had a severe angle to the cover, I drilled/tapped the housing up top and put in a new fill plug. Might be hard to do on that housing due to the upper link mounts.


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