01 XJ RC long arm Drive Train vibration
So.. Newby for sure, been reading and couldn't find what I'm looking fir so here you go, any help is much appreciated. the drive train noise is i the rear I had the front driveshaft off already,
01 XJ geared with 3:10's on 33's, RC 6.5" long arm lift and coil overs on the rear, sorry for the obnoxiously big pics, couldn't figure out how to make'm smaller.. rear further down at the pic of the SYE...
at 55-75 MPH the drive train sings, it has a SYE in it but its certainly not a shorty the best I've seen is the JB Conversions (saves me abut 4") be sides changing the SYE to the shorty and help the angle of the rear drive shaft is there anything I can do to drop the transfer case any more with the 6.5" RC Long Arm lift on it?
Thanks to all! Ivan
01 XJ geared with 3:10's on 33's, RC 6.5" long arm lift and coil overs on the rear, sorry for the obnoxiously big pics, couldn't figure out how to make'm smaller.. rear further down at the pic of the SYE...
at 55-75 MPH the drive train sings, it has a SYE in it but its certainly not a shorty the best I've seen is the JB Conversions (saves me abut 4") be sides changing the SYE to the shorty and help the angle of the rear drive shaft is there anything I can do to drop the transfer case any more with the 6.5" RC Long Arm lift on it?
Thanks to all! Ivan
Last edited by Ivan 01 XJ; Nov 20, 2018 at 10:03 PM.
You don't need to drop the transfer case with a slip yoke eliminator.
There's a chance it is coming from the transfer case, but it's most likely the pinion angle (should be able to adjust with the upper control arm) or a bad u-joint in the rear driveshaft.
There's a chance it is coming from the transfer case, but it's most likely the pinion angle (should be able to adjust with the upper control arm) or a bad u-joint in the rear driveshaft.
Uni-ball mounted to the rear end
upper control arm mounted to the uni-body
Last edited by Ivan 01 XJ; Nov 20, 2018 at 10:04 PM.
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CF Veteran

Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 1,364
Likes: 37
From: Dont Colorado Wyoming
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
uhhhhhhhhhhh did you say that rear uni-ball mount was ONLY secured to the housing with the puny little diff cover bolts????? For the love of a car wreck, have that thing welded to the axle. you may need to look at your ring and pinion if your getting a "singing" noise.
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 5,924
Likes: 203
From: Greenville, SC
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
There are a few things that concern me. The rear upper thing going on there looks like someone bolted a ball joint from an ifs vehicle to those arms. There is no stiffening done, the brackets that hold the rear arms to the frame look like they have one bolt and some booger welds holding them on, the diff cover bolts should not be used to support the upper arms, they will shear and it'll be a huge pain in the butt to get all of the broken bolts out probably, and it doesn't seem like everything was perfectly thought out/ set up. Besides that, the sounds you describe are bearing sounds, not vibrations. It's hard to diagnose over the Internet going off of what someone describes. If you have an sye in the rear, no matter what kind you should be able to get good angles and not have driveline vibrations since the Cherokee rear driveshaft is much longer than wrangler which seem to be the ones who companies market the short sye to. Personally I believe there is a lot to be done to the rig before I would drive it on the street. I do hope you resolve the issues you are having with it though.
I'll have to get some better pictures for you guys, I really don't think (or hope) its as gloomy as you guys describe. Its a premanufactured kit for sure, if the uni-ball kit was a better supported i.e wielded to the axles and the would that help the concern?. More to come..
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 5,924
Likes: 203
From: Greenville, SC
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by Ivan 01 XJ
I'll have to get some better pictures for you guys, I really don't think (or hope) its as gloomy as you guys describe. Its a premanufactured kit for sure, if the uni-ball kit was a better supported i.e wielded to the axles and the would that help the concern?. More to come..
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 1,242
Likes: 41
From: Newport News, VA
Year: 96 & 88 4 dr Cherokees
Seeing the better pics now, not even sure it is a uni-ball setup....and even so, not the kind I was expecting.
No, I don't know any place around here that could set it up.
No, I don't know any place around here that could set it up.
Senior Member

Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 822
Likes: 3
From: orrville ohio
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
The uniball is fine that’s what libertys and zj’s run as for the mounts those could use some help but that being said the newer durango has a watts link on the rear diff cover from factory
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 5,924
Likes: 203
From: Greenville, SC
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by tinytrax78
The uniball is fine that’s what libertys and zj’s run as for the mounts those could use some help but that being said the newer durango has a watts link on the rear diff cover from factory


