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I had gotten the ZJ fan clutch (most likely Hayden) for my 99 XJ. I attempted to put it in, but it wouldn't slide in behind the radiator without the fins rubbing on the radiator. Not sure what was up with the clearance. I had the factory HD radiator installed that spring, and the motor mounts were looking a lot like old XJ motor mounts. I had ordered a set of Brown Dogs and was going to try the clutch in again after, but it got sold instead.
I did run it in my "Heep" for a while. It sounded like the fixed fan in my dad's old F-100
Had a little scare today. I noticed how the oil pressure would start off as 40 and then drop to around 10 psi usually at idle. This has been going on for months. I attempted the snake-oil method of using Engine-Restore and that didn't seem to do anything. Well the obvious hit me in the face this morning when my oil pressure went to zero. After two trips to Advance and then AutoZone, I installed a lifetime-warranty Duralast PS271. The Advance Auto sensor had the wrong plug on it - an obvious mispackaging from Carquest's supplier. New sensor holds at around 40 psi at all times now. I suppose I don't need to bother with the Engine Restore or Rotella 15W-40 oil anymore.
Parts manufacturers are very bad (or simply not interested) at keeping up with changes in connectors, but I would suggest that Rotella 15W/40 is an excellent choice for a 4.0 - whatever the mileage (unfortunately, it's not available here).
If you have a Caterpillar dealership fairly close to you, Cat's 15/40wt is a good oil to me. My 1978 F-150 has been using Cat oil for 30 years, 1987 AMC Cherokee every oil change since new. I also run TDTO 10wt in transmissions and TDTO 50wt in all my diffs.
I'll continue to use the Rotella then.
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Changed my AC low pressure sensor "clutch sensor" as my AC stopped working. After doing the paperclip-jumper test (in the low pressure sensor wire connector), the clutch kicked on and the AC was ice cold. I had already checked the pressures a few days ago so I know there is freon in there. $15 later I screwed on a new sensor and it works great. The old sensor was 27-years old OE and very very old just like the rusty receiver dryer tank looks.
Cheap housings like that are horrible for projecting light, look good, price is great light output is horrid. You're gonna need bulbs as bright as the sun to output anything useful.
Cheap housings like that are horrible for projecting light, look good, price is great light output is horrid. You're gonna need bulbs as bright as the sun to output anything useful.
Probably, but I will deal—they’re definitely brighter than OEM as is. Going to rewire the halos so that they work as DRLs and turn on when the car turns on and not when the markers are on.
Lots of reasons not to have bought these, not least the seller obviously recognise a headlight if he tripped over one in the street.
But you've got them now, all you need now is a harness upgrade & +200% bulbs, as they're presumably plastic, so you can't risk high wattage ones.
You're right about when DRL's should be on, but they should also go off when you turn the lights on, although not sure if there's any US regulations, as they're not mandatory.
Not sure if I'm in the right place but, here go's!
My AC stops blowing when I go up a hill or accelerate. I bought this 1990 Cherokee new.
I just changed from the R12 to the R134 required here in California. It's no longer my daily driver so I haven't driven in when I require AC in a long time.
So, I can't remember if it's 'always' done that but I've only noticed is since changing the Freon.
Helpful suggestions would be appreciated.
> Technical discussion
> Stock XJ Cherokee tech
> Search previous ac threads or start your own
When you say you switched to R134a was just the gas changed or was it properly converted?
Did the R12 leak out or something else break?
You are not "required" to convert refrigerant and it is perfectly legal to repair systems with phased out refrigerants. I have so much R12 but no one uses it anymore so the market has cratered.
