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Just yesterday I got done barking up the wrong tree. Recently I did the internal to external slave cylinder swap on my 1990 AX15, and after that I developed an oil leak coming from right under the bellhousing. Well I dropped the transmission this last weekend and re-sealed the transmission input bearing retainer. I thought I might have done it incorrectly when I swapped bearing retainers as part of the slave cylinder swap, but I guess not because the dang thing is still pissing oil everywhere. Now I believe I have an engine oil leak on my hands, rather than trans. I am going to check the trans fluid level later and if its still good then I will know for sure. The engine oil level might be a little lower but I cannot really tell between what the level is today and what I remember it being a few days ago, its not low or anything like that.
Less than 200 miles ago I replaced my rear main seal, oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket, and my oil filter elbow o-rings. Im now looking to see what could be causing my leak, its pretty substantial. I think its possible that I did not do enough prep work when I did my RMS and that might be leaking again.
Curiosity killed my Jeep. Cold snap blowing through montana and figured, "lets see if my jeep will start at -22F". Well it did, and then it started to pee coolant lol Temp warms back up to 30 degrees or so Tuesday, so I'll be able to better assess whats going on then, since my hood latch is frozen shut right now lol
Curiosity killed my Jeep. Cold snap blowing through montana and figured, "lets see if my jeep will start at -22F". Well it did, and then it started to pee coolant lol Temp warms back up to 30 degrees or so Tuesday, so I'll be able to better assess whats going on then, since my hood latch is frozen shut right now lol
But at least it started...
Well of course. Those things don't happen when it's sunny and pleasant outside.
I saw this on Facespace so I thought I'd give this a try. I gathered the paint and brushes from Hobbly Wobbly. Was about five bucks total. Paint is Testors Orange Flourescent 1173-RM-11731_0711 and I bought the cheapest mini brushes they had. I painted just the top of the needles. Load up your brush so it applies a thick coating; this paint is quite watery. I only did one coat. It dries to a matte-like finish. Looks amazing when done. This "upgraded" cluster is replacing the "basic" cluster in my '97.
It is strange that the needles fade & always wanted to do something about it - but until such time as so many warning lights fail (or important ones which means it'll fail inspection) so I have to take the panel out, it ain't gonna happen.
I hear you. The manufactured dent in the factory down pipes is pretty restrictive and retains more heat in the upper exhaust than it should imho
Let the stupid thing to breathe like it's supposed to ! Wrinkles in the other brands of pipe are more flow restrictions.
With factory suspension, the dent accommodates the drive shaft when the left wheel is stuffed all the way up into the fender.
Originally Posted by tlc1976
At least I feel better about mine now. That it’s factory. I thought mine got dented by the guy who put in my clutch.
I know the feeling. After my exhaust manifold was replaced with the accordion one under warranty, I had thought the dealer messed up my downpipe in the process. I later learned (probably on this forum) that they're all (1991-1999) like that.
Last edited by Bluelight; Jan 18, 2024 at 11:45 AM.