When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I changed out the R12 two months ago. The A/C wasn't cooling and there's NO R12 anywhere in my area to do another recharge. So, I changed the gas.
Thanks for your response.
I'm still searching for anyone with any ideas why the A/C stops blowing upon acceleration and going up hils.
I changed out the R12 two months ago. The A/C wasn't cooling and there's NO R12 anywhere in my area to do another recharge. So, I changed the gas.
Thanks for your response.
I'm still searching for anyone with any ideas why the A/C stops blowing upon acceleration and going up hils.
First, you need to find and fix the leak. Second converting to r134a from r12 requires you change oil from mineral to POE in the compressor then replace any seals with POE compatible ones or they will fail and leak.
The other issue is most certainly a vacuum leak.
Also please make a thread in technical discussion, it is more active and there are several ac threads ongoing now.
Finally got it started, after being parked up for a couple of months. Jumped it from my trusty Suzuki support vehicle ('cos the only other running Jeep also has a flat batter) having wasted best part of the price of a new battery on another useless starter pack (obviously in that market, output, make & price mean nothing). Left me with no time to tackle the next job.
Yeah, I'm trying to figure out how I'm supposed to get back into the Google account I started the YT channel on... Apparently one is only allowed to have "x" amount of accts associated with their phone number to "verify" it's you... smh
Yeah, I'm trying to figure out how I'm supposed to get back into the Google account I started the YT channel on... Apparently one is only allowed to have "x" amount of accts associated with their phone number to "verify" it's you... smh
I had the "my A/C stops working after a few minutes" issue and did the shim removal. This was very easy and I didn't have to remove my fan shroud completely either (I have the 2.5L HD fan clutch upgrade). It just lift up enough so I could zip off the 14mm lock nut. I took the three shims off, cleaned the rust off, and reinstalled two shims leaving only one off. Seems to work great again. In two weeks I'm going to drive this Colorado native XJ to Wisconsin where it'll live out the rest of its life.
I'll be gooping up the undercarriage and insides of the frame rails with Woolwax every couple of years before this will see a Midwestern winter. It isn't a Bring-A-Trailer $12,000 gem but the general lack of rust on this makes it a creampuff where my house is. Those that are aggressive with rust inhibitors don't have issues with corrosion like everyone else.
Last edited by User Unknown; Jun 28, 2024 at 04:26 PM.
Had to drop the front sway bar to change out the bushings at the rails. And as always three came out no problem, the fourth one snapped. Now to see if I can drill it out straight, or cut it out and put in a nutsert.
Had to drop the front sway bar to change out the bushings at the rails. And as always three came out no problem, the fourth one snapped. Now to see if I can drill it out straight, or cut it out and put in a nutsert.
When I busted a bolt replacing my rear bump stops I was able to just knock it into the uni-body.
Was a little tight getting my rivnut tool in there but was doable.
And the hole was the perfect size for a 5/16" bolt which was the size already in there so that worked out well.