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Synthetic Oil + SeaFoam + STP Oil Treatment = Engine Rebuild in a Can

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Old Nov 25, 2013 | 08:44 AM
  #46  
DieselDaze's Avatar
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Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 838
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From: Tulsa,Oklahoma
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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BG, royal purple, names like that really stand out to me... though I don't know a thing about either of them I know their marketing has really resonated my core, and somehow I feel confident to trust them..

But seriously I doubt I could afford either especially like Salad said all we need to do is stay on top of it in the first place... There's a forum member that has a shop out here holds meets etc, we were talking Diesels one day and he started telling me about this BG product that is like liquid gold or something, and he swore by it as he used it on his cummins and you could feel a difference across the board..

Told me has to keep the truck for a day as this process is 5-6hrs long, he had me just before my eyes glazed over when he mentioned the $600 price tag....
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Old Nov 25, 2013 | 08:47 AM
  #47  
kgm's Avatar
kgm
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Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 1,589
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From: Denver
Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Yeah I used the BG because it can clean out the fuel injectors. My jeep was decently cared for in some ways, but not in others. Diff fluids were gnarly but interior was clean & body was rust free. It seems to have helped a little. I noticed some slight throttle changes from it. My coworker who used to work at a truck shop recommended it, they used it when they couldn't get a car to pass emissions. I also got incredible mileage with it in the tank.

Can of 44k is $25 on ebay.
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Old Nov 27, 2013 | 03:40 AM
  #48  
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From: Orlando, Florida
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Glad to see the thread sprouted! It was the Miracle Grow, y'know...

For the record, my kickdown cable was adjusted, re-adjusted, and the sweet spot found long before I did this SeaFoam + STP business. TIP: This method produced the best results for me, so its worth a try. Push down the button, push the cable as far back as it will go, let go of the button so it stays there, you know the drill. Then, get into the car, depress the gas pedal fully until you hear the cable snap into place. This is where most internet instructions tell you to stop. But, I learned that if you then, without touching the cable, depress the button, the cable moves slightly on its own. Let go of the button. The setting it finds for itself in this way has always been better, in my experience.
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