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Ah, you got SWAG's infinite 8, huh? Let me know how you like it, been thinking about getting one myself, and re-do my rolling stand...
Also check out their air-over-hydro conversion, and digital readout...makes things WAY easier.
X5, LOL
will do! ive only bent a 90 so far to use as a cheater/gauge
air/hyrdo or even a hydro pump is definitely in the future. currently i dont have a large enough compressor to run a ram so till then its all muscle lol
will do! ive only bent a 90 so far to use as a cheater/gauge
air/hyrdo or even a hydro pump is definitely in the future. currently i dont have a large enough compressor to run a ram so till then its all muscle lol
Nothing wrong with that, I started the same way, lol
Welded some of my steering up. Thought about posting it but it's really not that pretty but it's strong and that's really what matters right?
I need a new hood, I'm having problems seeing through my lens not to mention the tiny field of view. Any recommendations on something that won't break the bank? I don't weld all that much but when I do, I'd like to be able to see. Auto darkening for sure.
I like my Speedglas shield. I have a shade 10 auto darken. No adjustments, the entry level model. Great shield. If you wanna drop real money, look at there higher level models. Upwards of $400, but a great shield. Couple of my coworkers use them, I had the chance to borrow one. Great shield.
I like my Speedglas shield. I have a shade 10 auto darken. No adjustments, the entry level model. Great shield. If you wanna drop real money, look at there higher level models. Upwards of $400, but a great shield. Couple of my coworkers use them, I had the chance to borrow one. Great shield.
The Speedglas is very nice, thats what I have. I also really like the optrel or jackson bh3, have used both of them and they are great.
All extremely nice hoods, but you're going to pay for it.
I used to use a hobart auto that had the bigger lens. It was a decent helmet for the price.
'Mornin. I need to ask some advise on welding and wasn't sure if I should post here or just in the Fabrication threads.
Got a 96 2dr, 2wd that I'm dropping a 5.2/nv3500 in and lowering it, and making my own Heim-jointed tubes for the upper control arms for clearance of the headers.
Ordered a 'kit' from Ruff-stuff of 3/4-5/8" and some .120 tube (not really a kit, but was cheaper at the time than their pre-made ones)
Not used to welding nice and clean metal. Mostly nasty crappy stuff so wasn't really sure on gas flow (25) or heat (med) or speed (4.5) On a Mig Master 250.
Well wiped off the tube end with brake cleaner to get the coating off and weldable, threaded end, threaded the joint all the way in with jam nut to protect the threads from spatter. Welded it all up purdy and now can't get the joint to move AT ALL!
Thinking that I messed that one up, on the next one I took the joint out and just left the threaded portion in the tube and NOW CAN'T GET THE JOINT TO THREAD IN!!
OF COURSE, AFTER i weld them, I see vids on tapping the holes after welding.. SO, does that mean I HAVE TO buy 80+$$ worth of taps (3/4x16 std and rev thread) to make them thread like they should? (I'll NEVER use them again!!)
This is why I said 'cheaper at the time' because now thinking I should'a just gave them the measurements and had them make it. But I didn't feel like spending the extra $$ at the time.
NEXT: is the 3/8 weldment tabs/ears to hold the out-board joint to axle..
I was just going to cut a 2" arc in the bottoms (they're just flat tabs with 5/8 hole 2 1/2 tall) to fit the front axle tube, and saw that some use "spacers" while welding to simulate the assy that's going in there to keep the holes aligned.
Do I "really" need those? That's n extra 40+$ that I probably won't get back..
(I'm moving the attaching point outward to the knuckles, so the arches 'should be' the same height, and not one shorter than the other, due to it being closer to parallel to the body attaching point -front to rear. OR closer to the wheel/knuckle)
I've waited about two weeks to get on this all to have it rain ALL STINKIN WEEKEND.. and thought that I could at least tack it all in, drop it again and weld it up inside. But this little issue stopped everything.. There goes another week or two.
Kinda need advise quickly. Gotta get the torches back to my bud by Monday. (tomorrow)
'Mornin. I need to ask some advise on welding and wasn't sure if I should post here or just in the Fabrication threads.
Got a 96 2dr, 2wd that I'm dropping a 5.2/nv3500 in and lowering it, and making my own Heim-jointed tubes for the upper control arms for clearance of the headers.
Ordered a 'kit' from Ruff-stuff of 3/4-5/8" and some .120 tube (not really a kit, but was cheaper at the time than their pre-made ones)
Not used to welding nice and clean metal. Mostly nasty crappy stuff so wasn't really sure on gas flow (25) or heat (med) or speed (4.5) On a Mig Master 250.
Well wiped off the tube end with brake cleaner to get the coating off and weldable, threaded end, threaded the joint all the way in with jam nut to protect the threads from spatter. Welded it all up purdy and now can't get the joint to move AT ALL!
Thinking that I messed that one up, on the next one I took the joint out and just left the threaded portion in the tube and NOW CAN'T GET THE JOINT TO THREAD IN!!
OF COURSE, AFTER i weld them, I see vids on tapping the holes after welding.. SO, does that mean I HAVE TO buy 80+$$ worth of taps (3/4x16 std and rev thread) to make them thread like they should? (I'll NEVER use them again!!)
This is why I said 'cheaper at the time' because now thinking I should'a just gave them the measurements and had them make it. But I didn't feel like spending the extra $$ at the time.
NEXT: is the 3/8 weldment tabs/ears to hold the out-board joint to axle..
I was just going to cut a 2" arc in the bottoms (they're just flat tabs with 5/8 hole 2 1/2 tall) to fit the front axle tube, and saw that some use "spacers" while welding to simulate the assy that's going in there to keep the holes aligned.
Do I "really" need those? That's n extra 40+$ that I probably won't get back..
(I'm moving the attaching point outward to the knuckles, so the arches 'should be' the same height, and not one shorter than the other, due to it being closer to parallel to the body attaching point -front to rear. OR closer to the wheel/knuckle)
I've waited about two weeks to get on this all to have it rain ALL STINKIN WEEKEND.. and thought that I could at least tack it all in, drop it again and weld it up inside. But this little issue stopped everything.. There goes another week or two.
Kinda need advise quickly. Gotta get the torches back to my bud by Monday. (tomorrow)
Errol
Welcome to the wonderful world of fabrication, LOL
For the joint that is stuck in, try heating it up again with a torch, and try to remove while it's hot, you may need some penetrant to assist you...slap the tube in a vise, and grab a wrench, heat it up, and give it a go.
For the one that won't go in, chase the threads. You'll probably have to chase the threads on the other as well when you get it out anyways. Buy the taps and dies.
For welding the mounts, you absolutely should use a mock-up to keep things straight. Otherwise, you'll be cutting it all out and doing it again.
Probably not what you wanted to hear, but that's the right way to do it.
..Well, I have the torches already and shouldn't burn up that much gas. I just can't get the joint itself too hot, cause they say it's got a Teflon/Delrin liner I believe. (also NOT to use a spray lube. They say it's one of the worst things you can do to them. (not my words, theirs)
I soaked the threaded portion and down the tube with PB blaster last night. Also, my vise broke the cast hold down ring that lets it rotate.. Maybe one of these days things will go right for a change.
Have to get back out there and see if it's the L/H or R/H one. (I'm SURE the L/H is going to be more expensive of a tap. Maybe I should do a "poll or have a bet")
Then off to Harbor Frieght to see what kind of deals on vises and aluminum pipe wrenches they have.
Thank you.
E
..Well, I have the torches already and shouldn't burn up that much gas. I just can't get the joint itself too hot, cause they say it's got a Teflon/Delrin liner I believe. (also NOT to use a spray lube. They say it's one of the worst things you can do to them. (not my words, theirs)
I soaked the threaded portion and down the tube with PB blaster last night. Also, my vise broke the cast hold down ring that lets it rotate.. Maybe one of these days things will go right for a change.
Have to get back out there and see if it's the L/H or R/H one. (I'm SURE the L/H is going to be more expensive of a tap. Maybe I should do a "poll or have a bet")
Then off to Harbor Frieght to see what kind of deals on vises and aluminum pipe wrenches they have.
Thank you.
E
Yeah, only use the penetrant on the threaded portion, lol...and heat the tube, not the joint. You'll need to be careful. Do several cycles of heating/penetrant/cooling, and I'd be willing to bet you'll get it, just gotta be patient.
Check amazon for the taps. I've had good luck finding stuff like that on there for not too much money.
Got it to turn ok without heating it (PB blaster saved it again). Had the torches, but then thought about freezing it for a time since that worked a long time ago.
but for these last ones, I used my Amsoil water resistant grease that I had. Smeared it on the threads before welding these up.
Anywho, Here's what I ended up with. (sorry, I didn't clean them off) Thanks for the advise and not flamin me. I get enough grief about lowering it plus it being a 2wd!
Last edited by rockosocko; 04-23-2017 at 10:47 PM.
Got it to turn ok without heating it (PB blaster saved it again). Had the torches, but then thought about freezing it for a time since that worked a long time ago.
but for these last ones, I used my Amsoil water resistant grease that I had. Smeared it on the threads before welding these up.
Anywho, Here's what I ended up with. (sorry, I didn't clean them off) Thanks for the advise and not flamin me. I get enough grief about lowering it plus it being a 2wd!
In the process of building a hitch for my grand Cherokee. 4in square tube, 1/4in thick. Brackets 1/4in. Saftey chain hooks 1/2in.
This is the first time I did any stick welding in a long while so teh welds arnt as pretty as they could have been, but I dont think its going to come apart any time soon.
If I was smarter, I would have done the safety chain hooks different, as they are they kinda interfere with putting the pin in... they there now!
Youll notice there is 4 holes on one side, and 3 on the other.. I mis-measured and had to fill in and redrill.
04-09-2017, 08:03 AM
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