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Rear Fenders & Lower Quarters Cut & Fold Combo Write-Up...
#1
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Rear Fenders & Lower Quarters Cut & Fold Combo Write-Up...
Been wanting to do this for some time, not only because the unpleasant look of fenderless & capless is eating away at me, but rust is also eating away the lower quarters. So finally grew the ***** to hack up my ****.
I 80% followed a write-up on JF that was VERY detailed & helpful, but did things my way here & there.
Tools:
* Angle Grinder
* 4" Cut-Off Discs (2x)
* Saw-Zaw
* Metal Blades (for saw-zaw)
* Drill
* Metal Drill bits
* Wire Wheel
* Hammer (without a textured strike face)
* Rubber Mallet
* Couple pieces of 2x4
* Rivet Tool & Rivets
* Tape Measure
* Sharpies (1 Black, 1 Silver)
* Straight Edge
* Seam Sealer
* Surface Cleaner (rubbing alcohol or special prep cleaner, whatev)
* Masking Tape & Newspaper
* Paint or Bed liner of your choice
* & YOUR BRAIN
I didnt have flares or bumper caps, so additional wrenches, ratchets, phillips/flat-heads would be needed for that.
So, it starts...
First cut, red line
Rear Measurement
Forward Measurement, coincidence that the rust starts at the measured mark
These measurements are the distance of the space between the 2 fender layers. So, they both fold in & you I'd have plenty material to rivet to.
My straight edge to connect the marks
Inner Measurements, same as outer
Cut it!
All the material inside the yellow polygon will be gone, so it doesnt matter how you cut around the corners, but still try to line it with the inner cut line, here's where your brain comes a little handy.
Cut the inner
some hidden mud
couldnt get the grinder all the way to the back corner, but metal snips work fine on the single layers
success!!
theres technically really no specific order to things, I tend to jump around or the tools I was using inhibited, so I had to do another spot to come back to where I couldnt get to. I wanted to take the material off the rear part, but had to do other cuts first....anyways, next cut
same cut, from the inside
separating the inner fender from the rear part
the next part didnt happen until after I had the inner fender completely separated from the outer, because I could get the saw-zaw or angle grinder in the right position....got to be a bit of a PITA & didnt take pix of each cut, but this is what I basically ended up doing
yellow line is 1st cut (saw-zaw inside the 2 fenders), red is 2nd cut, & blue is 3rd cut
finally
this was the process for separating the inner & outer fenders
cut just below the bottom edge of the quarter lip (where the bend line will be)
then cut this out, makes the bend in that corner cleaner & it clears the middle piece
next comes flattening out the factory bends, where the non-textured hammer & 2x4 comes in to play
view from inside
time to fold, inner fender....massaged this area with the hammer while bending by hand
this one's kinda out of order, da well...cut an angle into the corner where the bend will be, also drill out the spot welds to take out an unneeded layer
cut the corner here, makes it fit better when folded up
didnt picture it (its messy), made a nice thick bead of sealant on the inside of the outer fender (right about where the end cap bracket was) & on the bottom/inside edge of the same fender....bent it up...I used a piece of 2x4 & jack to help bend it & hold it, to drill & rivet
moved the 2x4 & jack, drilled & riveted as much as possible
last bend (in red)....also (in yellow) material I removed from the middle piece, yet left enough to cover the rust parts of the inner & outer fenders....u could leave less & also fold it first or 2nd, rather than last, for a "cleaner" look....i opted for this
I also decided to cut & fold the fenders as well....cut the first lip off
relief cuts
pic from inside the wheel well, cut a little too high...smeared seam sealer on it
it was getting a late, so pix get sparse now....after seam sealing any spots that got to high, rubber mallet banging all the tabs in, & making it look decent
drivers side...spray on undercoating on the lip only, dont like it as much as the passenger
passenger side
Spread this whole project over 2 days, but couldve banged it out in 1. The most time consuming was sealing, riveting, sanding, & masking. Cutting & folding probably took a total of 3-4 hours.
Thanx for looking!
I 80% followed a write-up on JF that was VERY detailed & helpful, but did things my way here & there.
Tools:
* Angle Grinder
* 4" Cut-Off Discs (2x)
* Saw-Zaw
* Metal Blades (for saw-zaw)
* Drill
* Metal Drill bits
* Wire Wheel
* Hammer (without a textured strike face)
* Rubber Mallet
* Couple pieces of 2x4
* Rivet Tool & Rivets
* Tape Measure
* Sharpies (1 Black, 1 Silver)
* Straight Edge
* Seam Sealer
* Surface Cleaner (rubbing alcohol or special prep cleaner, whatev)
* Masking Tape & Newspaper
* Paint or Bed liner of your choice
* & YOUR BRAIN
I didnt have flares or bumper caps, so additional wrenches, ratchets, phillips/flat-heads would be needed for that.
So, it starts...
First cut, red line
Rear Measurement
Forward Measurement, coincidence that the rust starts at the measured mark
These measurements are the distance of the space between the 2 fender layers. So, they both fold in & you I'd have plenty material to rivet to.
My straight edge to connect the marks
Inner Measurements, same as outer
Cut it!
All the material inside the yellow polygon will be gone, so it doesnt matter how you cut around the corners, but still try to line it with the inner cut line, here's where your brain comes a little handy.
Cut the inner
some hidden mud
couldnt get the grinder all the way to the back corner, but metal snips work fine on the single layers
success!!
theres technically really no specific order to things, I tend to jump around or the tools I was using inhibited, so I had to do another spot to come back to where I couldnt get to. I wanted to take the material off the rear part, but had to do other cuts first....anyways, next cut
same cut, from the inside
separating the inner fender from the rear part
the next part didnt happen until after I had the inner fender completely separated from the outer, because I could get the saw-zaw or angle grinder in the right position....got to be a bit of a PITA & didnt take pix of each cut, but this is what I basically ended up doing
yellow line is 1st cut (saw-zaw inside the 2 fenders), red is 2nd cut, & blue is 3rd cut
finally
this was the process for separating the inner & outer fenders
cut just below the bottom edge of the quarter lip (where the bend line will be)
then cut this out, makes the bend in that corner cleaner & it clears the middle piece
next comes flattening out the factory bends, where the non-textured hammer & 2x4 comes in to play
view from inside
time to fold, inner fender....massaged this area with the hammer while bending by hand
this one's kinda out of order, da well...cut an angle into the corner where the bend will be, also drill out the spot welds to take out an unneeded layer
cut the corner here, makes it fit better when folded up
didnt picture it (its messy), made a nice thick bead of sealant on the inside of the outer fender (right about where the end cap bracket was) & on the bottom/inside edge of the same fender....bent it up...I used a piece of 2x4 & jack to help bend it & hold it, to drill & rivet
moved the 2x4 & jack, drilled & riveted as much as possible
last bend (in red)....also (in yellow) material I removed from the middle piece, yet left enough to cover the rust parts of the inner & outer fenders....u could leave less & also fold it first or 2nd, rather than last, for a "cleaner" look....i opted for this
I also decided to cut & fold the fenders as well....cut the first lip off
relief cuts
pic from inside the wheel well, cut a little too high...smeared seam sealer on it
it was getting a late, so pix get sparse now....after seam sealing any spots that got to high, rubber mallet banging all the tabs in, & making it look decent
drivers side...spray on undercoating on the lip only, dont like it as much as the passenger
passenger side
Spread this whole project over 2 days, but couldve banged it out in 1. The most time consuming was sealing, riveting, sanding, & masking. Cutting & folding probably took a total of 3-4 hours.
Thanx for looking!
#4
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Came out good man. Nice write up. every time I go to do one, I just get to working and dont want to stop for pictures lol.
#5
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Nice write up! It made me very glad I didn't do an actual cut and fold, just a cut out everything and weld in new metal, the cut and fold looks like far too much work for my attention span.
#6
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Year: 1998
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ya, was a little time consuming...if i could weld, i would've gone that route, but those tin-foil panels cut & bend prretty easy
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#8
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 i6
Thanks for the write up me and my boss have been wanting to do that to our xj's and didnt know how and could not find a write up for it. i am wondering if we could weld the fenders instead of riveting them.
#9
ya you could weld them i just did mine and welded them i welded almost every seam that got folded over and i also drilled hole like his where the rivets are but i plug welded the holes.
#10
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Year: 99xj 97TJ 96XJ, 87 woody
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I just did the cut and fold on my 87 XJ. Two days ago. I followed this thread a little.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/c...t-way-1007865/
I did mainly because the rust was getting real heavy. I was not able to get 4 1/2 and 5 1/4 due to rust. It turned out well with still enough metal to rivet.
It's not bad and rather fun. Like folding a Christmas present. I did mine all with 4 1/2 angle grinder and narrow blade. I Find the sawzall sometimes will vibrate loose metal and make it a little harder to cut.
I left both front and rear narrow pieces and folded those up as well. Four total pieces folded up.
With more threads I'm sure its helps out everyone.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/c...t-way-1007865/
I did mainly because the rust was getting real heavy. I was not able to get 4 1/2 and 5 1/4 due to rust. It turned out well with still enough metal to rivet.
It's not bad and rather fun. Like folding a Christmas present. I did mine all with 4 1/2 angle grinder and narrow blade. I Find the sawzall sometimes will vibrate loose metal and make it a little harder to cut.
I left both front and rear narrow pieces and folded those up as well. Four total pieces folded up.
With more threads I'm sure its helps out everyone.
Last edited by Lowes; 08-19-2012 at 08:12 PM.
#11
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Cool ill have to wait to do mine now school starts this thursday.and with afull te job on top of that ill have no time. Besided hunting season is right around the corner. Im also dropping in a new motor im rebuilding. But this write up was exactly.what I was looking for thanks.
#12
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Year: 2001
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Cut and Fold
Thanks for the write up between yours and AJ off road I was able to do this last weekend in one day kept coming back and reading the next steps.
Last edited by camping350; 09-01-2012 at 02:34 PM. Reason: remove too long quote
#13
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Year: 1998
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^^^did you really have to quote all those pics to say that message?
not trying to be rude but on a phone its not the fastest to load...
not trying to be rude but on a phone its not the fastest to load...
#14
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Year: 2001
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#15
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 HO