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Old May 23, 2011 | 12:06 AM
  #1156  
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From: Riverside, California
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
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Originally Posted by pitbullxj
I hear you but I need it to be retard strong!! The total weight of the halo with my additions will be less than 125lbs so it will be IMO comparable to a roof rack with a tire, high lift, shovel and any thing else they put in those huge roof racks. The pieces I am going to add weigh 35lbs which I don't feel is excessive. With all of it triangulated like that it will be super strong. I am not building this thing for looks, it will be thrashed and will probably end up on her roof more than once. Roll it back over and keep going is the idea, repeatable results is the goal.

Let me hear your or anybody else's thoughts on my logic.
Whats the material? Sounds fine to me...
Old May 23, 2011 | 01:45 AM
  #1157  
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From: Lyons, Colorado
Year: 1992
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1.5 inch .120 wall
Old May 23, 2011 | 01:56 AM
  #1158  
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From: Lyons, Colorado
Year: 1992
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1.5 inch .120 wall
Old May 23, 2011 | 03:33 AM
  #1159  
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From: Utardiland
Year: whats left of a 91
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Originally Posted by pitbullxj
I hear you but I need it to be retard strong!! The total weight of the halo with my additions will be less than 125lbs so it will be IMO comparable to a roof rack with a tire, high lift, shovel and any thing else they put in those huge roof racks. The pieces I am going to add weigh 35lbs which I don't feel is excessive. With all of it triangulated like that it will be super strong. I am not building this thing for looks, it will be thrashed and will probably end up on her roof more than once. Roll it back over and keep going is the idea, repeatable results is the goal.

Let me hear your or anybody else's thoughts on my logic.
oh trust me i know all about the repeatable results thing, your front right now is plenty strong adding that extra tube isn't going to improve much really. like i said before if your that worried about it just add the rear X and call it good. i'm all about the repeated roll(its all my rig seems to do lol) but i'm also about minimal weight too, so all the cages i do weather or not its a hybrid exo or internal is strong as hell with minimal weight. i built one with A,B and D pillars and just one big X for structure and i watched that jeep roll 7 times end over end down a mountain, we got it back up on the rd prepped it after the roll and fired it up and he is still wheeling on 90% of the same tube work. so its not about how much tube you add its all about design. a good cage design will out do any with tons of tube. just trying to save you some time and money, not strength is all.

Last edited by jmaxj; May 23, 2011 at 03:36 AM.
Old May 23, 2011 | 09:17 AM
  #1160  
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Cool maing thanks for the info. I'm still on the fence though. It has to be stronger with the added pieces in the front right? How strong is too strong?
Old May 23, 2011 | 09:35 AM
  #1161  
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
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Originally Posted by pitbullxj
Cool maing thanks for the info. I'm still on the fence though. It has to be stronger with the added pieces in the front right? How strong is too strong?
No such thing as too strong. But there's is such a thing as too heavy
Old May 23, 2011 | 09:45 AM
  #1162  
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From: Aberdeen, MD
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO I-6, 703 Injectors, Brown Dog Super Engine Mounts
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structurally speaking, your design is fine. I would like to add my criticism however.

The red tubes shown below would transfer corner forces more efficiently than your x-design.
The blue tubes are not needed for strength, but would make the frame look better to carry the visual lines through, and I would add them simply to act as sliders for both sides.


Any thoughts on how you will be attaching this?
Attached Thumbnails Homebrew Jeep Mods-img_0977-copy.jpg  
Old May 23, 2011 | 11:41 AM
  #1163  
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i second the red Y..... now do it
Old May 24, 2011 | 05:19 AM
  #1164  
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Wish I had seen this post before I fabbed her up. I like the y but she got the x. Check it out. I will do a mock up of the support plan tomorrow. Oh and don't forget the b and c cross bars are getting tied to the internal b and c hoops through the roof!!
Attached Thumbnails Homebrew Jeep Mods-image-1814132281.jpg  

Last edited by Hooligan Off Road; May 24, 2011 at 05:22 AM.
Old May 24, 2011 | 07:45 AM
  #1165  
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From: fayetteville nc
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
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lookin good
Old May 24, 2011 | 07:58 AM
  #1166  
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From: Aberdeen, MD
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stick in the vertical anyways
Old May 24, 2011 | 08:58 AM
  #1167  
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From: Long Island NY
Year: 2000
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Originally Posted by dukie564
structurally speaking, your design is fine. I would like to add my criticism however.

The red tubes shown below would transfer corner forces more efficiently than your x-design.
The blue tubes are not needed for strength, but would make the frame look better to carry the visual lines through, and I would add them simply to act as sliders for both sides.


Any thoughts on how you will be attaching this?
I know its too late, but maybe next you can change it someone else can learn.

As stated the extra front tubes in blue do nothing for side strength. If you were worried bout impacts along the front they wont help transfer load to the rear but since you have the front of the jeep there I dont think its gonna get much abuse.

I think the rear "X" is good. The "Y" doesnt spread the load from a side in the middle.
Old May 24, 2011 | 12:59 PM
  #1168  
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From: Delaware, OH
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Here are a few of mine:

Mounted the fire extinguisher
Mounted my push bar
fixed my rear washer
installed my Tach, CB, and cup holder
installed an air horn
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Old May 24, 2011 | 01:15 PM
  #1169  
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From: Glo Pt,VA/Stewartstown,PA
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
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I feel as though i need to go mod the hell out of my jeep now! Great Thread! Keep the ideas coming!
Old May 24, 2011 | 02:07 PM
  #1170  
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From: Bloomfield, MI
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
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Originally Posted by 94jeepxj2dr
My homemade flares, before riveting, after riveting, then rhino lined
What materials did you use for those fenders?



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