The Homebrew Jeep Mod Thread
No, I don't lick fish.



Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 11,169
Likes: 26
From: Northern Kentucky
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
^ Correct about the drip rails being the weak point. There have been many that have been ripped off or broken by gutter mount roof racks.
I set my rack onto the factory rails, on bumpers. Then attached gutter mounts. This removes a large portion of the weight load from drip rails.
I set my rack onto the factory rails, on bumpers. Then attached gutter mounts. This removes a large portion of the weight load from drip rails.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 1,242
Likes: 41
From: Newport News, VA
Year: 96 & 88 4 dr Cherokees
^ Correct about the drip rails being the weak point. There have been many that have been ripped off or broken by gutter mount roof racks.
I set my rack onto the factory rails, on bumpers. Then attached gutter mounts. This removes a large portion of the weight load from drip rails.
I set my rack onto the factory rails, on bumpers. Then attached gutter mounts. This removes a large portion of the weight load from drip rails.
When I make my roof rack, I will use the drip rails (at least 5 mounts per side) AND the factory roof rails mounts as well.
No, I don't lick fish.



Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 11,169
Likes: 26
From: Northern Kentucky
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I haven't 'failed' mine, but I have had as little as 200 lbs on the factory roof rails (not drip rails, and the roof flexed & popped/thunked with every crack or bump in the road - and this wasn't offroad either. I can't see how anyone thinks that would be stronger than the drip rails.
When I make my roof rack, I will use the drip rails (at least 5 mounts per side) AND the factory roof rails mounts as well.
When I make my roof rack, I will use the drip rails (at least 5 mounts per side) AND the factory roof rails mounts as well.

Hmmm... yeah. I don't see it either.
No, I don't lick fish.



Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 11,169
Likes: 26
From: Northern Kentucky
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Attachment 108117
Attachment 108118
"grenade shifter" (ar-15 shell push button)
"hood ornament" made the skull with the lost wax process in my high school foundery years ago, solid aluminum
Attachment 108118
"grenade shifter" (ar-15 shell push button)
"hood ornament" made the skull with the lost wax process in my high school foundery years ago, solid aluminum
CF Veteran

Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 1,528
Likes: 2
From: North Carolina
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
All you do is get a WW2 grenade from your local antique store. Drill a hole larg enough for the .223 casing on top and a hole large enough for shifter shaft on bottom. The. Drill and tap a hole on the lower side of grenade to put a screw in so it can be tighten down nice installed. Also, your gonna want to put som kind of thing inside the .223 casing to block the entrance so that that it won't fall too far down into the grenade shifter once installed.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 383
Likes: 3
From: Buffalo NY
Year: 2000 shell
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 1998 4.0l I6
All you do is get a WW2 grenade from your local antique store. Drill a hole larg enough for the .223 casing on top and a hole large enough for shifter shaft on bottom. The. Drill and tap a hole on the lower side of grenade to put a screw in so it can be tighten down nice installed. Also, your gonna want to put som kind of thing inside the .223 casing to block the entrance so that that it won't fall too far down into the grenade shifter once installed.
CF Veteran

Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 1,528
Likes: 2
From: North Carolina
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Seasoned Member
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 383
Likes: 3
From: Buffalo NY
Year: 2000 shell
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 1998 4.0l I6
CF Veteran

Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 1,528
Likes: 2
From: North Carolina
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0



