The Homebrew Jeep Mod Thread
Member
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 104
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From: Maryland
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 2.5L MFI
He used angle iron for the bracket, which had what looks like 2" pipe or PVC drilled to it. He then got a receiver drop hitch without a ball, flipped it upside down, and put a nut through the bracket to it. Not too difficult
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 3,144
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From: central PA
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0

used a 12" carriage bolt through square stock for the neck, it goes through the receiver and has a cap on top. Two different sizes for the tubes as well for surf rods or just medium action rods. I dont half *** it
Seasoned Member
Joined: Aug 2015
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From: Tarpon springs, FL
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 766
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From: Los Angeles, CA
Year: 1989 Limited
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: I-6 4.0L AMC Renix
this is in the trunk of my '89 xj. There are slots on the inside top of the indent in the side wall and I just used three 50 lbs zip ties to tie up a monkey wrench and recovery rope (until I get the 5,000 lbs ratcheting tie down to use as recovery rope). I would suggest using a support if you do more serious off tossing to stop the plastic in the sidewalk from breaking due to the weight of the wrench bouncing up and down though
No, I don't lick fish.



Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 11,169
Likes: 26
From: Northern Kentucky
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Attachment 278555this is in the trunk of my '89 xj. There are slots on the inside top of the indent in the side wall and I just used three 50 lbs zip ties to tie up a monkey wrench and recovery rope (until I get the 5,000 lbs ratcheting tie down to use as recovery rope). I would suggest using a support if you do more serious off tossing to stop the plastic in the sidewalk from breaking due to the weight of the wrench bouncing up and down though
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 766
Likes: 5
From: Los Angeles, CA
Year: 1989 Limited
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: I-6 4.0L AMC Renix
Originally Posted by Basslicks
Hey brother, we're all about homebrew mods here and building/wheeling on a budget. But THAT rope isn't going to do anything and the ratcheting tie-downs your referring to are NOT for recovery. The grade 8 hook at the end of it is a life-threatening projectile if it slips off the object that you have it hooked to. Actual ****** straps and kinetic ropes are the best thing to use and there's really no replacement for them man. If you have to cheap out for one, just go to harbor freight. At least if the strap fails, it's not going to kill someone.
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 766
Likes: 5
From: Los Angeles, CA
Year: 1989 Limited
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: I-6 4.0L AMC Renix
And what if I use a heavy duty tow pin through the hitch point as the anchoring point for a looped recovery rope? It was an idea but I don't know if that is a good idea though.
No, I don't lick fish.



Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 11,169
Likes: 26
From: Northern Kentucky
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I would definitely not use the rope and ratchet as a recovery kit. I live in Los Angeles and my jeep likes to do the breaking-down thing a lot and my mechanics jeep could tow me with this rope to his shop because last time it broke down I was less that a mile from his shop. I will be getting a real recovery kit before I take it off roading in the future. The ratchet doubles as a hammer or to hold something together like to bend a hose to stop coolant from spilling out if I were to replace the temperature sensor (that's just an example). I would never use it as part of a recovery kit for that exact reason that you stated. But thanks for the warning. And what is the grade 8 hook that you're talking about? I am thinking of the hook that has the clip on it like a flat bed tow truck would when it ties you car down. I know those tend to be prone to bending and slipping off of its mounting point when trying to pull a buddy out of a mud pit, for example, because the mud creates a bunch more resistance than on a paved flat road.
voila!
Grade 8 hook... never heard of them bending though... that's a new one.
I've seen people use them with great success. Little bit of a pain sometimes, but you gotta figure, the same amount of force is being put on that pin as what would be put on it if you were using a D-Ring shackle attachment in the same said receiver. You're not going to break anything that way if that's what your concern is. If you do, then you shouldn't be using that for your draw bar anyway.
Last edited by Basslicks; Nov 5, 2015 at 04:16 AM.
when I was replacing the stock stereo with an aftermarket stereo instead of buying a wiring harness I tore the female part of the stock harness out of the back of the stock stereo and soldered the new harness to it.
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 766
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From: Los Angeles, CA
Year: 1989 Limited
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: I-6 4.0L AMC Renix
Originally Posted by Basslicks
Oh okay, your verbiage in your previous post had me under the misunderstanding that that was your recovery gear.
voila!

Grade 8 hook... never heard of them bending though... that's a new one.I've seen people use them with great success. Little bit of a pain sometimes, but you gotta figure, the same amount of force is being put on that pin as what would be put on it if you were using a D-Ring shackle attachment in the same said receiver. You're not going to break anything that way if that's what your concern is. If you do, then you shouldn't be using that for your draw bar anyway.
voila!
Grade 8 hook... never heard of them bending though... that's a new one.I've seen people use them with great success. Little bit of a pain sometimes, but you gotta figure, the same amount of force is being put on that pin as what would be put on it if you were using a D-Ring shackle attachment in the same said receiver. You're not going to break anything that way if that's what your concern is. If you do, then you shouldn't be using that for your draw bar anyway.

that is a recover rope that is a loop that would be used the way I mentioned with the tow pin as the anchor point. And that's another thing I saw also for recovery but i don't know if I can afford it (I couldn't find a tow pin with a max weight capacity reading on it so I still need to find a strong enough one. Or just a cut piece of rebar?) But then again, sometimes you have to pay more to save yourself from damage that would cost more in the end if you use the cheaper thing. What's your input?
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 84
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
that is a recover rope that is a loop that would be used the way I mentioned with the tow pin as the anchor point. And that's another thing I saw also for recovery but i don't know if I can afford it (I couldn't find a tow pin with a max weight capacity reading on it so I still need to find a strong enough one. Or just a cut piece of rebar?) But then again, sometimes you have to pay more to save yourself from damage that would cost more in the end if you use the cheaper thing. What's your input?
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 766
Likes: 5
From: Los Angeles, CA
Year: 1989 Limited
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: I-6 4.0L AMC Renix
Originally Posted by DEMon357XJ
Any 5/8" hitch pin will do. You figure the pin doesn't shear in half pulling 7,000+ lb. trailers so it will not break with a tow strap pulling on it.
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 84
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
As far as that come along I would recommend something that is rated more than 2 tons, because the jeep with people and gear will weigh in close to that, and not only that, you will most likely be using in when stuck. Especially in something like mud, there is hydraulic pressure that requires a lot more force to move the jeep through than simply rolling. Couple that with possibly having to pull it uphill through the mud you will be very likely to break the come along. With winches I do believe it is recommended to have one that is at least 1.5 times as strong as your vehicle weighs with everything in it. I have a similar one rated at 8000 and personally would not use anything rated below 6000 without other factors. Please don't take any of this negatively, I just like when people are informed and don't want to see anyone get hurt.
CF Veteran

Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 1,843
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From: Ross Vegas, Ga
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 w/ tupy head
As far as that come along I would recommend something that is rated more than 2 tons, because the jeep with people and gear will weigh in close to that, and not only that, you will most likely be using in when stuck. Especially in something like mud, there is hydraulic pressure that requires a lot more force to move the jeep through than simply rolling. Couple that with possibly having to pull it uphill through the mud you will be very likely to break the come along. With winches I do believe it is recommended to have one that is at least 1.5 times as strong as your vehicle weighs with everything in it. I have a similar one rated at 8000 and personally would not use anything rated below 6000 without other factors. Please don't take any of this negatively, I just like when people are informed and don't want to see anyone get hurt.


