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The Homebrew Jeep Mod Thread

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Old Sep 23, 2013 | 12:59 AM
  #721  
Basslicks's Avatar
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From: Northern Kentucky
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by War Eagle
200$ shipped
Hey, compared to the PVC ones that bushwacker and everyone else makes - that's a fair deal!
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Old Sep 23, 2013 | 06:28 AM
  #722  
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From: central PA
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
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Originally Posted by Basslicks
Hey, compared to the PVC ones that bushwacker and everyone else makes - that's a fair deal!

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Old Sep 23, 2013 | 11:54 AM
  #723  
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From: Eaton Co
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by War Eagle
what do you guys think? I just started back ones now
Those look real good man. Only thing is now if you hit something the flare will be fine but, good chance you will jack up the fender. Mounting them to these would make your fenders as strong as your flares. http://shop.trailheadoffroad.ihostne...productid=XJFS
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Old Sep 23, 2013 | 02:57 PM
  #724  
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From: central PA
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by XJmike0122
Those look real good man. Only thing is now if you hit something the flare will be fine but, good chance you will jack up the fender. Mounting them to these would make your fenders as strong as your flares. http://shop.trailheadoffroad.ihostne...productid=XJFS
then you would just damage the fender and those skins...worst (only) case scenario with flare bolted to fender would be ripping the fender off either partially or completely. A new fender costs all of $50 and then you'd just bolt the flare back on

Theres a fine line between something being beefy and overkill...looking at you rockwell running jeep owners...
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Old Sep 24, 2013 | 01:00 AM
  #725  
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From: Eaton Co
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Hmm I figured putting a thicker gauge metal over a thinner gauge would make it stronger. Learn something new every day.
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Old Sep 24, 2013 | 03:08 AM
  #726  
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Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by XJmike0122
Hmm I figured putting a thicker gauge metal over a thinner gauge would make it stronger. Learn something new every day.
To a certain extent yes. The main issue is that there isn't much, if any bracing for the sheet metal. It has a lot of wiggle room so if it has to move it will just bend out of the way. If you were to brace it a bit there wouldn't be an issue, and doing a thicker guage like you suggested would definitely strengthen it.
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Old Sep 24, 2013 | 03:22 AM
  #727  
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Originally Posted by JerrytheJeep
To a certain extent yes. The main issue is that there isn't much, if any bracing for the sheet metal. It has a lot of wiggle room so if it has to move it will just bend out of the way. If you were to brace it a bit there wouldn't be an issue, and doing a thicker guage like you suggested would definitely strengthen it.
Yeah, x2 on this... I really needed to trim my fenders for more clearance, but as soon as I did, I removed everything that have the fender strength... now it just kinda flops around - I plan on putting some rugged ridge flares on mine though so that should change soon.
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Old Sep 24, 2013 | 08:53 AM
  #728  
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Originally Posted by XJmike0122
Hmm I figured putting a thicker gauge metal over a thinner gauge would make it stronger. Learn something new every day.
the yield point would still be the same, others are right in saying to brace the fender to the tub. I thought about bracing it like that, but i can stand on these and they dont budge an inch. There is no flopping around, the number of bolts/braces keep the fender nice and rigid.
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Old Sep 27, 2013 | 09:19 AM
  #729  
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Originally Posted by Barrelmaker
Grenade shifter Needed : Grenade... Ar-15 shell 5/8 drill bit 3/8 drill bit My grenade already had a hole in the bottom so I opened it up with the 5/8 bit, this should slide into the shifter stick now. The grenade has a "Handel/top" I unscrewed this from the body then used the 3/8 bit to drill from the bottom all the way through this creates a hole for the shell Next the little white piece in the Handel should have a node on the top, this is what I shoved the shell onto. Put it together and that's it. A set screw would be recommended to hold it to the Handel secure
.


Do you know a way that I can take a piston and make that my handle and if so what should I use for the button I have no ideas for that
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Old Sep 27, 2013 | 09:33 AM
  #730  
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From: Holland MI
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
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Id use a small piston, don't want anything to big.
Maybe a hole through the middle with a valve as the button.
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Old Sep 27, 2013 | 03:49 PM
  #731  
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From: salem, OR
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Originally Posted by JerrytheJeep
To a certain extent yes. The main issue is that there isn't much, if any bracing for the sheet metal. It has a lot of wiggle room so if it has to move it will just bend out of the way. If you were to brace it a bit there wouldn't be an issue, and doing a thicker guage like you suggested would definitely strengthen it.
Only real way to make it fully stronger without wiggle room would be to do spot welding, lay down a grid to follow and spot weld over the entire section of skin and fender. Would have to do some sanding and priming afterward to make it look smooth and such
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Old Sep 27, 2013 | 09:55 PM
  #732  
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From: San Antonio
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 6 Cyl
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Originally Posted by War Eagle
200$ shipped
Is that for front and rear? If so, I want a set
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Old Sep 27, 2013 | 10:37 PM
  #733  
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From: central PA
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
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Originally Posted by gettin_dirty_with_ruby
Is that for front and rear? If so, I want a set
fronts...serious cutting required on the fender, not sure much else would fit after the cut haha
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Old Oct 13, 2013 | 09:06 AM
  #734  
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From: Tulsa, OK
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
Default Roof Rack

I have working on my new roof rack well see how it turns out whenever i get the tire carrier on and painted.
Attached Thumbnails The Homebrew Jeep Mod Thread-img_20131010_195635.jpg  
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Old Oct 14, 2013 | 08:37 PM
  #735  
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From: Colorado
Year: 1991 2-Door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 liter
Default safari rack

Nice job on the rack looks light but yet strong.
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