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The Homebrew Jeep Mod Thread

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Old Dec 12, 2012 | 06:03 PM
  #406  
adamk's Avatar
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From: Greensboro
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Originally Posted by Barrelmaker
Fuse box?
Only in the 97+ models. I believe there were a few things behind my kick panels but I just moved them slightly so it fit
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Old Dec 13, 2012 | 05:05 PM
  #407  
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From: SoCal
Year: 95, 94, 89
Model: Cherokee
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Originally Posted by Bcs_customs
Attachment 139250
And does anyone know why xjs get a hole in this line wrapped in electrical tape? My previous 3 xjs all had a hole here
not sure if anyone answered this yet but the hood release cable rubs right there when your motor mounts go bad and let the engine flex.
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Old Dec 13, 2012 | 07:45 PM
  #408  
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From: Oregon
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L I6
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Originally Posted by GrimmJeeper

not sure if anyone answered this yet but the hood release cable rubs right there when your motor mounts go bad and let the engine flex.
Awsome, thank you now I finaly have a logical conclusion to that confusing irritant
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Old Dec 14, 2012 | 01:29 AM
  #409  
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Year: 98
Model: Cherokee
Engine: v6 ha ha ha
Default home brew transfer case skid plate

In fear of my liftless xj tearing of a t case my friend and i made this skid plate. First e took off the cross member measured 3 plates about 6x6 to make a U on each side of the frame. Useing a sawzall we cut the inner lip off the frame in order to have a tight fit. Then we mocked it up tacked it and welded the U brackets on top of the cross member to help reinforce it and protect it from side to side motion. If you do it right it should be snug. i used a maul hammer to pop it in and it held itself in place. Then drill...or use a torch and cut 2 holes in the frame and U brackets each and put in some heafty bolts and washers in when your done. For the plate. Using a tape from the front edge of the crossmember i measured back past the rear of the t case then bent it up a little at an angle and measured up. Then measure the width and add an inch or two to each side for bending.
Using 3/16 in steel fo all of it includingthe brackets. We cut to the deminsions and using the torch bent the main bend first. Then made a cut along the rear of the cross member where it dips down. Bent that to match. Then made the side bends cutting the plate in a small amount ftom the sides near the rear of the cross member. Then final cuts like 2 V's out of the rear corners of the plate to bend it up. Finally welded all cuts on both sides and welded it to the crosmember. (u have to take it off and weld both top and bottom. I have dropped all the weight of my xj on this on rocks logs and packed dirt and havent had it budge. I will be cutting a notch in it for draining it but i was in a hurry with it so i figured id cut it a different day. This took about 3 hours to do. We also made a nearly identical one on a grand cherokee with no fittment issues. Just be sure not to measure over the bolts that actually mount the t case to the cross member. And u will have to cut holes to match where the original holes were in the crossmember.

The Homebrew Jeep Mod Thread-20121004_190128.jpg
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Old Dec 14, 2012 | 01:37 AM
  #410  
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From: San Jose
Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
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I'm not gonna quote that... but did you reinforce the rearmost portion? A rib along the length or something coming off the uni-body rail? It looks flat in the picture, but I believe you said something about adding a bunch of angled pieces so it is probably ok.

Overkill is highly underrated... :P
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Old Dec 14, 2012 | 09:00 AM
  #411  
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From: Owens Cross Roads, AL
Model: Cherokee
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Originally Posted by JerrytheJeep
......Overkill is highly underrated... :P

New catch phrase!
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Old Dec 14, 2012 | 09:41 AM
  #412  
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Year: 98
Model: Cherokee
Engine: v6 ha ha ha
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Jerry the jeep. the bends in the steel plate made it extremely strong. if you see in the picture to the left of the plate sandwiched between the crossmember and the unibody are the u brackets that I was talking about before. They are welded to the crossmember to thicken and stregnthen it so total the weight if the jeep can be literally dropped or high centered on it without it bending. Also the rear bend gives you a way to slide back if you need to without catching.
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Old Dec 14, 2012 | 09:50 AM
  #413  
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From: San Jose
Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by navy digital
Jerry the jeep. the bends in the steel plate made it extremely strong. if you see in the picture to the left of the plate sandwiched between the crossmember and the unibody are the u brackets that I was talking about before. They are welded to the crossmember to thicken and stregnthen it so total the weight if the jeep can be literally dropped or high centered on it without it bending. Also the rear bend gives you a way to slide back if you need to without catching.
I was wondering what that was for :P good stuff dude, I've been looking into skids and other fab but without a welder, bench press or other shaping tools I'm kinda at a loss. One day though... one day....
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Old Dec 14, 2012 | 10:02 AM
  #414  
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Year: 98
Model: Cherokee
Engine: v6 ha ha ha
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Jerry the jeep. the bends in the steel plate made it extremely strong. if you see in the picture to the left of the plate sandwiched between the crossmember and the unibody are the u brackets that I was talking about before. They are welded to the crossmember to thicken and stregnthen it so total the weight if the jeep can be literally dropped or high centered on it without it bending. Also the rear bend gives you a way to slide back if you need to without catching.
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Old Dec 27, 2012 | 12:24 PM
  #415  
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From: Ohio
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L V6
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Mesh Grill inserts made from Gutter guard. Bought them black, but put a fresh coat and 3 coats of clear after cutting to hopefully keep em in good shape. Total Cost with wire, paint, and gutter guard under $20.

First Mod to the new Jeep and first post on the site. Lovin all the homebrew mods on the site. As a new XJ owner I can say that this site is a lot of fun to cruise around and see what everyone does to get ideas.

Got a new bumper, but too cold to put on just yet







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Old Dec 27, 2012 | 12:54 PM
  #416  
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From: Greensboring, NC
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
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^^^That aerodynamic license plate is bad ***, where's the how-to?
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Old Dec 27, 2012 | 01:04 PM
  #417  
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From: Ohio
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L V6
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Originally Posted by ih8cornnuts
^^^That aerodynamic license plate is bad ***, where's the how-to?
Ohh thats an easy MOD.. Just hand your keys to your wife/gf and sit at home patiently will she smacks guard rails.
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Old Dec 27, 2012 | 02:17 PM
  #418  
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From: Indianapolis
Year: '99 and '91
Model: Cherokee
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Originally Posted by DEEJAYESS3678

Ohh thats an easy MOD.. Just hand your keys to your wife/gf and sit at home patiently will she smacks guard rails.
Hahahahaha.... nice.


How did u secure the mesh in there? Been thinking of doing something similar but I want to cutout the platic bars that are in there.
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Old Dec 27, 2012 | 02:25 PM
  #419  
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From: Tennessee
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by DEEJAYESS3678
Ohh thats an easy MOD.. Just hand your keys to your wife/gf and sit at home patiently will she smacks guard rails.
LOL
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Old Dec 27, 2012 | 02:52 PM
  #420  
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From: Tennessee
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by ih8cornnuts
Did some recessed tailgate lighting for camping and such. I used an aluminum profile that we have at work for recessing our lighting into furniture. There is a slight bow to the plastic trim in the gate so I had to roll the aluminum a bit. But I think it's bad to the bone! Used some killer bright LED strips in there, 6.7 watts and around 600 Lumens with a clear lens so it throws some nasty light.






I also used the same light strips to do the footwells. You can tell which is factory. How's this before and after?

Sickest hatch on an XJ EVER!!!!!! Link me to the write up!
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