YES :-)

1 can of air upside down. I had used some other rustcracker spray but not much and that was only -40 celsius. But with 1 can of air did the trick. I tried with putting a wrench under the center pin, but it only bend it so i hade to use some parts of the brake tube flange tool :-) Its not easy with a 3 arm puller to use it this way.

 

This is the the good and bad side. The measure on both side are the same, but i have only used measure caliper not micrometer. I cant drop a new bearing in, i would have to press/tap it in place so that must be ok (i tried with the old i took out from the good side)? There is some scratch on both the flange, but i cant see what that would do with a new bearing?

 

Good old human ingenuity at it's best! How many hands did you have to use to hold all the parts of that setup? Seriously, I couldn't have done it any better than you did. From the pics, I didn't think there was enough of a lip to get the puller to grab. Good Job!

Now, make sure the new bearing goes all the way in against the bottom flange. If it goes in and doesn't spin, your good as gold. The scratches are probably from the PO trying to get the original one out. Clean out the rust from the seal gland before you put the new seal in.

Jeeps are good machines, they just need a lot of TLC.

 

ha ha, just my own hands, but more than one try ;-) I couldnt reach all the way in with the puller, cheap puller, but if you look at post 26 i got real good hold on the number 3. If i hadnt got that to work i would have got some longer puller or cut a litle on the one i got to reach all the way back, there was much more to hold on in back of the repair bearing. Maybe a 2 arm puller would have bees easier to use, there wasnt easy to get centerpin to hit and stay in place when putting force on it. All this type of pullers should have been delivered with a 3-arm solid plate that could have been used for this type of jobs, maybe a solid 3 arm plate with some hole in to screw in some bolts to get the correct hight. Maybe there is something like that out there?

 

There are ALL KINDS of pullers out there for special purposes. I made one myself for pulling hydraulic valve lifters out. I saw a specially made one for pulling a shaft bearing without pulling the shaft first. It was a large machine tool that would have required several days to take apart to do it normally. As the saying goes, "There are more ways than one to skin a cat." (my question is, who would want to skin a cat?)

 

i think they would like to skin a cat in china before they eat it? ;-)
Yes, i see there is a lot of different pullers, but i havent found any that would have solved my task in i a good way without paying lots of money. There is something like this but it looks a litle weak.

 

The pilot bearing is brass and is in the flywheel to support the standard transmission shaft. No, I don't think it would be strong enough or large enough. I usually thread those and use a slide hammer. I think I used a 5/8 or 3/4 NC.

I would think your best bet is a long reach 3 jaw and using a support plate or "bridge" like you did.

 

Glad you got it out. My pilot bearing puller has pulled a lot more than just pilot bearings. I had to use the bolts for the retainer
to press my bearing back in, but getting the seal in without damage this way was a real PIA.

 

Hi, i have mounted a new left axle, new bearings on both sides, and seals and new pinion seal. I dont remember how it sounds before i took it apart, but here is a clip how it sounds now, i see that i need to take a new video, ther is much sound from the loos u-joint strap. But there is a "humming?" sound. Its only a litle oil in it, i didnt have much, maybe 1 -1.5 pint. I think it was a litle bit more resistance after i mounted the pinion seal too, does the oil make some resistance since i think its more resistance than it was when i didnt have oil and pinioin seal in place??
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2019.59.15.mp4