i know that, but how do i do it on the side with the rapair bearing/bearing saver?

 

FU*K, the bolt in the cross pin was very loos, it was fu*king broke. :-( So now its not possible to get the axle out or anything, is the hole axle crap? I will use it as long it works, but i now need a new one, maybe a good time to change to one that could use a locker :-)

 

Is this working on Dana 35??
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Differential-Spider-Gear-Pinion-Shaft-Lock-Bolt-Extractor-Kit-DPK-01-Made-in-USA-/390515515629?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item5aec89e0ed&vxp=mtr

 

no that kit does not work on a d35, try using a scribe and backing out the broken off piece. This works most of the time if there is at least 1/2 a thread left on the snapped off portion. Otherwise you can use a die grinder or a torch and eat away the cross pin until it clears the lockbolt. This way you only have to buy a cross pin and lockbolt. To get the axle in far enough to get that clip out you will damage the outer seal on that saver bearing so be prepared to replace it one way or another.

Miles

 

HA, me vs bolt 1-0 YES :-)
Thanx to JBimmolate :-)
Took me 2 min to get it out, + 2 hours yesterday before i got the tool.
Is the axle at rockauto ok?
https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/mor...885&cc=1181977

 

Yes, it would have been nice to have someone that i could use to send small parts to and then he would ship them to me ;-) The problem with rockauto is that the parts is in different places and there is shipping cost on maybe 30-40$ on a litle screw. I would have payed some $ for the job if someone could have done me that favor ;-)

 

How do i get the repair bearings out? I have tried with normal tools like slide hammer, but its stuck like hell. I also tried to heat up the tube (not the bearing), but it didnt help. Is there some other tools i can use, or is slide hammer the only option?

 

There is a way, but it's dangerous. You can try cracking the bearing with a chisel or torch cutting it out. A good torchman can cut it out and not damage the tube. I had to have a ball joint cut out because all that was left was the shell and the guy never even touched the bore! Just be sure to clean out the diff well to remove all the debris from the bearing being burnt out. You can stop some of it with a rag, but it might catch fire. Maybe a piece of sheet metal. The tube will have a lot of sticky grease in it that needs to be flushed out well if it has bearing debris in it. This is a last resort method to be sure, but will work. It will be spectacular because of the grease in the bearing.

You could also remove it with a Dremel tool. Long and tedious. Use carbide cutters, of course, or friction wheels. You'll have to take it out piece by piece.

Having said all that, have you tried a bearing puller?

 

You know, being a toolmaker, I could probably MAKE you that bolt in about 20 minutes!

 

The repair bearing is totaly different from normal bearing, its much ticker and looks solid, a normal bearing dont look solid att all compared to this. Is it put in place with a press?
What do you mean by friction wheel?
I think the best way to get is out is with some tool that use a bolt or something with fine threads to realy put some preasure on it.
If you are a toolmaker, how much schould you have to make a tool? Do you know what im talking about or should i take some picture and measure?

 

This is how it looks like.
1=where the rollers was.
2 and 3 is the same (holds the rollers in place), i removed number 2, i used number 3 to attach the slide hammer since it didnt reach all the way back.
There is a space between the repair bearing and the orignal place where the original bearings should go, i think its 5mm. I cant measure how thick the inside of the repair bearing is, but i think its 2-3mm.

 

Whats the best bearing puller i can use on this?

 

One other trick you can try --- get a couple cans of air (like the ones used to blow off you keyboard) turn it upside down and spray the bearing race, sometime it will freeze them enough (shrinking it) allowing you to use your slide hammer and pull it.

 

Why not weld some lugs onto the race to give your puller something to hook onto, or am I missing something here?

 

What I meant by friction wheel was a small thin high speed grinding wheel. You can cut most of the way thru the race and then crack it with a hammer. It looks like you've already got most if it out. You're right about the gear puller. There's not much it can grab on to. I really don't think freezing it will work because the chill will be transfered to the tube as well.

Doesn't it really rot your socks when a simple job turns into a nightmare? Welcome to the world of Jeeps!

It may be the repair bearing was slightly oversize and was forced into the bore. At this point, I myself would go with the "fire wrench" and be done with it. After you get it out, you'll have to check the bore and the new bearing to see if the sizes are right. This may be the reason the Jeep was sold in the first place. I'll be back on line in a while. I need to do something else at the moment.