salvagedstitch

Hi Guys..if you are following the white rabbit then maybe you know about my build. I've done a whole front end on this girl and just finished! I was so glad to get it done. I have several things that have come up now (seems never ending lol) Took her right away to get an alignment after finishing the front end. But the steering seemed sloppy. Like the wheel has a delay of a few seconds after turning. Seems to still pull to the left too.

okay now issue #2 serpentine was squealing and so my bf is like spray wd-40 on it. So I do that and yea the squeal is less but now I get some sort of ticking or clicking noise that comes from the power steering area. We cant tell exactly where its at. So we pull the belt and play with the pulley and it seemed to have play. Ok off to buy a new PS pump. Put the old pulley on but the play still seems there. Should I get a new pulley?

Also need to know about the top bolt that holds the ps bracket on. mine seemed to have jb weld on it to hold it in. bolt seems good itself. MY BF thinks the hole may be stripped inside. It doesn't tighten just goes in all the way and keeps turning. Can he tap this out? I really don't want to go pull one at the junk yard. I will get a pic up in a bit. I figured changing the ps pump want a bad idea at $40 and I needed a flush anyway. Wondering if this could lead to some of the slop steering? I've read other posts mentioning an allen screw on the steer gear box. I have a new stabilizer, all new tie rod ends. Haven't done the ball joints but my current ones aren't cracked but I haven't greased them yet.

Thanks as always guys for your help!

dave1123

That bolt hole can be "helicoiled" or tapped out for a diamond shaped spring insert to bring the threads back to the same size it was. Maybe you can find someone who can do it or buy an insert kit for a one-time fix. The kit includes a tap, a couple of inserts, and an installation tool. The important part of installing the insert is to break off the drive tang inside the hole after installing it. All that takes is a sharp rap with a hammer on a rod that just fits down the hole and an air blast to blow it out. I'm done many of these in my time and, in aluminum, are actually stronger than the original hole. The inserts are stainless so no rust either.

The lower ball joints are not greaseable and are the first to go. They also take all the weight of the vehicle on them and are hard to see their condition. With all the work you've already done, they are the next step in the repair chain. JMHO, but I'd do all 4. It made a BIG difference on my WJ. You need a ball joint press to do them, like a big c-clamp unit with cups and spacers. You can probably rent the tool. If you buy one, don't buy a cheap one.

JMHO, but that engine bay needs a good steam cleaning. I find it amusing that your 93 has a serpentine belt where my 97 had v-belts.

XJRed96

I never seen a v belt on a cherokee newer than 96. But whatever. Chances are good that your only your drive belt needed to be replaced or adjusted. However with that stripped out bolt on the ps pump it's possible the pump was in there crooked. Heli coil as mentioned before will be your strongest bet for a solid repair. I'm guessing the majority of your "slop" is in the steering gear and I'm sure it's beyond any adjustment. It's just an old part and every jeep feels that way. If you are looking to upgrade that I would look at a rebuilt steering gear out of a Durango with the "plow/towing" package.

salvagedstitch

Yea more money to spend. LOL so what year should i be looking at for a replacement gear box or a part #? I want to see if I can adjust it any first though.

dave1123

Adjusting it will only make it worse in the long run. The gear teeth in the steering box are ball bearings that run in half-round grooves. The adjustment screw on top is to initially align the grooves to make them match. When the grooves wear wider, there is slack in the steering, and tightening that screw only makes the grooves misaligned. The box will also bind near the extreme travel ends and possibly split the case.

I thought we were talking about a Grand Cherokee here. My 97 ZJ had v-belts.

salvagedstitch

I have an inline 6 and yes its a Grand Cherokee Laredo. So what do you suggest Dave for the gear box? It looks like about 100 for a rebuilt one. What if I pull a durango gear box from the junk yard? What year could I get. I'm thinking there's probably a sale this weekend Wont my BF be happy about that....

dave1123

Search this forum and Youtube for videos on the subject. I know I've seen writeups on just this swap. With the Durango box, I think all you have to do is reposition the pitman arm. I think I remember you wind up with a slightly larger turning radius, but the box is stronger. Maybe I can find the link for you.

dave1123

Okay, 99 Dodge Durango steering box, either rebuilt or JY. There is a write-up in "Technical Write-up/How To" section on page 2. Youtube also has a video called "installing a Dodge Durango steering box in a jeep." That video shows a Wrangler, but the process is the same. I just found out the Durango box is 3.5 turns lock-to-lock and the jeep is only 2.5 which should make the jeep easier to steer.

salvagedstitch

Thanks Dave. Im gonna go ahead with that since it seems like an all around better solution in any case. BTW my ball joints both the ones in there now and the new ones I bought have grease fittings. You mentioned they aren't greaseable? Is this unusual or are those there for looks? LOL

dave1123

The lower ones usually don't have fittings because of clearance problems with the front drive axles. Mine do, but you have to take the axles out, put fittings in the plug holes, take them back out, and reinstall the axles. I just gave them a good shot before I put it back together and called it good. If I ever have to take it apart for some reason, I'll give it another shot. Probably not because these plugs rust in pretty good.

salvagedstitch

Oh Joy. You fix one thing and another breaks. {sigh} Jeep ran fine before changing the ps pump. After we modified the bracket with a 10mm bolt (BF swears helicoil never works for him) We get it back together, new belt on and fire it up. Cranks but no start. Any ideas? Im going to check for spark and troubleshoot more after work today. lost light and time last night.

Ok looks like i have a possible cps problem. I did some research, went out unplugged things and plugged back in. Keeping in mind my engine is still covered with a good coat of mud and grime I figure there is hope that things are dirty in there. It tried to fire up after doing this but now my batt is too low. So my question is on ebay the sensors are 10 bucks but how do i know if its a good one? or which brand should i get. for 10 bucks or even 20 i'll just replace it. I love throwing money at things

dave1123

In my opinion, you're wasting your time and money on anything but Mopar sensors. They cost more, but it's one and done. You know it's going to work and last. Who wants to go thru the agony of replacing a CPS only to do it again soon? Not me! Mopar parts are made to stringent standards that aftermarket parts aren't. Check out the wiring harness and connector going to it. That sensor operates in the millivolt range and good connections are vital!

salvagedstitch

Ok heres what I did tonight. I tried testing the sensor but im not sure i am doing it right. Is that the right one in the pic? I got no reading off it. I tested for spark and i have that. I watched several vids on how to test the cps. So i guess next would be ignition coil? Alternator regulator? Also i had this rubber hose id say 1/4 diameter or lik bigger that i biticed since the start hanging from down under the jeep near the airbox. Well when i took the airbox out i found the other end just laying under it nit connected to anything it was pretty trashed and rotted. Not sure if it was just old hose that got lost there or it actually went to somethibg. But i had a strong running jeep prior to all this ��

dave1123

That's the throttle position sensor you have in your hand. The CPS is mounted on the bellhousing back under the intake manifold. You can get to it thru the floor;

salvagedstitch

Am i close? Omg electric is my worst skill