CPLSeraphim

This is a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, 6 cyl Auto

I put the new engine in, hooked everything up properly, and when I go to start, it just clicks. Is there a relearn procedure that needs done? The jeep is together, and all she needs to do is start...

Also, Key is stuck in ignition. I cleaned out the automatic version of the NSS, and it would click in park and N. Bu7t now back in N only. I have a new one, but cant get the old one out. it's 1", and cant fit anything in there to get it. Could that be the problem on why it won't start?

Bustedback

Is it a single click or does it sound like a machine gun?

CPLSeraphim

Single click. it appears that my torque converter is in a bind. Cant turn engine over by wrench, Cant turn flywheel with BF screwdriver. Motor turned before install... installed with Torque Converter attached to flywheel... and your supposed to do it the other way... apparently they can bind... So that is where we sit right now. Working on it tomorrow in the AM.

Bustedback

There's your problem. Better pray you didn't damage the transmission.

fletchFL

Hopefully nothing's hurt. That's a good way to destroy a flywheel, converter, or rip the pump apart in the tranny on first start. Can't even fathom how much of a pain in the *** it would have been to put it together like that. Pull it apart, do it the right way before it costs you another grand or so. Forgive me if I sound condescending, that's not the intention, but no one does that.

And carefully check the input shaft(s) in the transmission, and the pump seal for damage or binding, before you put it back together. Same with the converter.

The issue with the NSS sounds like something out of adjustment or not quite lining up right with the linkage.

CPLSeraphim

Ok, so I now see what I did wrong, but can someone explain it to me?


So you are supposed to put the torque converter on the tranny instead of the flywheel first. ok.


What I do not understand is what difference it makes. I hear the torque converter slides further on the tranny shaft, and it did. but what good does it do when it bolts to the flywheel, and that isn't moving.


That is what confuses me. If the tranny and engine are mated together properly, where does the problem lay? Is it the angling and all while putting them together that is the issue?




Anyway, I took the engine and tranny apart, and moved the torque converter to tranny. Engine spins freely, transmission spun freely, while spinning torque converter at least. I am having a hell of a time mating the engine and transmission. It has been suggested to remove the rear drive shaft and pull the tranny back a couple inches, mount the engine, then hook up the transmission? Are there any suggestions n this method?


I used to do that with the manual in my old wrangler, but I am unsure with the automatic. It seems like it would make the lining up a lot easier, but is this ok?

Firestorm500

Are you positively sure the torque converter is fully back? On a Ford C-4, that I have experience with, there is two detents you have to go through.

I don't have experience with a Jeep transmission, but it might be the same. On a Ford, if it is not all the way back, stuff will absolutely not mate up properly. Ask me how I know sometime.

CPLSeraphim

I am sure now, after putting her in right. she is pished back, and went back about an inch. The part I don't get is how it attaches to the flywheel and mates together, but can be not far back when, in the end, it is still bolted to the engine, via flywheel, and still mounted at exactly the same place. I hope you know what I mean. I just don't understand the differeance, and am asking for the knowledge. Not justifying the wrong way, as apparently it doesn't work. lol.

And would moving the tranny back and mounting the engine be easier then trying to mount the engine in? I figure there will be much less left right up and down issues plus the engine crap won't get in the way of the numerous up down left right roll patterns I have been trying to do to line her up. I wanna finish her up right, and see if I messed anything up by doing it wrong...

Firestorm500

If the converter is not seated all the way home, it will keep the back of the engine and transmission bell housing away from each other to a certain degree.

The hangup is not where or how it bolts to the flywheel, since the converter can slide in and out of the sleeve where it goes.

I personally would rather stab the engine with the trans and transfer case in place, where it was before. I've had engines just "fall" into place in 1 minute. I've also had to fight them for over an hour. I do all my work by myself.

dave1123

Maybe I can explain it to you. There are 2 drive tangs on the pump that HAVE to go into the slots on the end of the torque converter sleeve (shaft). If they don't, they can crush to pump when you bolt it up.

The best way to make sure it's fully engaged is to measure the depth of the converter in the bellhousing and compare it to the distance the converter drive plate sticks out of the back of the engine. When you install the engine, the converter should spin freely before you tighten up the bellhousing bolts, then put in the converter drive bolts. You can get the converter to drop back by rocking it back and forth on the shaft until it slides back.

I was trying to install a new 350 in my Chevy truck and it just wouldn't drop onto the motor mounts. I lost my cool and just started shaking the chainfall like I was trying to strangle it and CHUNK! It dropped into place. I went underneath and checked the converter and it spun nicely. I sat back, had a couple of beers, and calmed down before I continued.

CPLSeraphim

ok. I gotcha now. Like I have said before, I wish this were manual, but it's been fun learning new stuff.

I found out why I am having trouble lining this thing up. There is a side bolt on the drivers side of the bell housing that has tranny lines running right behind it. I got it out... somehow, before. I forgot when I put the engine in the first time that it went back in, behind the tranny lines. Still trying to figure that out, but it will be in and I can see if I screwed up the tranny.


And thanks for the information you two. Now I understand the issue. I was completely confused. lol.


UPDATE: Ok, so I was able to get that bolt moved out of the bell housing. the engine is just about lined up, but I am going to need another person to get her in and start the bolts at the same time.

CPLSeraphim

So I got the jeep together after reseperating, and putting the TC on the transmission first, and rotating and pushing until it went in. all the way. after re assembly, where everything was turning fine, I tightened the bolts the last little bit, and now I get nothing.

Firestorm500

Specify exactly what "getting nothing" refers to please.

CPLSeraphim

Alrighty, well, I found out the starter problem of not getting anything. I burnt up the wire, but the starter is still working well. I got to run a new wire. will do that next days off.

The other problem is binding again. On a forum, it was another, a user told me you had to connect the TC to the FW before mating the engine and tranny together completely. meaning like an 1/8" seperation or so(approx the sleeves) and not just starting but tightening them all. this went against my thought but being a seemingly knowledgable person (one of their senior member types) I followed their so. The problem is that I should have just started one to be lined up, then mated completely. This would have allowed me to ensure everything weas in line, which it was before I seperated a little per those instructions. By followiung those instruction, it must have pulled that TC just enought to not match up. Needles to say, I am a little annoyed at the fact that I must tear apart afain, but oh well. Live and learn.

CPLSeraphim

Alrighty, I took the starter in to get tested. Works fine. I fried the wire. It is black at the end, and fuses are all good. Anyway, Jeeps going to shop, like I should have done in the beginning. I did screw the front tranny pump thing up, but surprisingly, it was on the second attempt. The TC will not come out of the tranny, even with prying like a mother on it. new front pump and new TC in the near future, plus the tranny shop knows how to mate the engine and tranny right.

As much as I hate to admit it, this auto tranny has beaten me. It wins.

Future reference to people who don't know what they are doing... like me. If it is a major component, take it to a shop and pay for it. It is cheaper then paying for it later after breaking more stuff.

Lesson learned.