markyoung2315

I have an 02 grand cherokee that quits while bein driven without any kind of notice. After it quits and ubtry to start it back up it jus cranks over. After letting it sit a few minutes it will start right up. Any idea what it could be , there is no check engine light on. I have heard that it could be a cam position sensor or a block that is inside the distributor. Any help on this would be much appreciated.

BumsModified98xj

Thats wierd but it can be possible it could be your crank sensor, pick one up at the junkyard and give it a shot

vadergator

it's either your cam position sensor (also called pick-up coil or relay) , your crank position sensor , or your idle air control senor. all 3 can cause sudden stalling without warning. is there rough idling, hesitation, loss of power, etc. when cold starting the motor or while driving? these symptoms help narrow down the culprit. cam sensor's are notorious for stalling at slow speeds as well as start and stall while idling. crank sensors normally act up more when starting the motor. it also is notorious for crank and stall symptoms. the IAC (idle air control) is the sneaky one of the bunch. it duplicates the other 2 sensors with start and stall symptoms. sometimes, it will not let you start up right away either. you usually notice it when going up / down a hill to slow down before stopping. also, going around curves or winding roads. your tps (throttle position sensor) can develop dead spots in it that can cause stalling also. you usually notice your motor running rougher with a slight misfire at idle or highway speeds. i would suggest you type in symptoms of a bad ( list the part/ sensor) in your google search box ( or whoever you use), and compare all the symptoms against what your encountering. that's the easiest way to avoid buying a part you don't need, or finding out afterwards that the problem was not fixed. just thought i would share that with you. you can relax. it's not a major problem. the parts vary from mid $30's- to high $40's.

aleet25

Your PCM could be going bad too. Once it gets up it'll quit. Let it cool and it'll start right back up. If it is the problem it's not a cheap fix

JJCIII

I had the same issue. In my 98zj, I just took out the pcm and cleaned and rust proofed the case. Also opened up the connector down to the pins and cleaned everything then packed them with die electric grease. There was a lot of dust and some corrosion around the connectors. Now I have zero issues.

JJCIII

Well the problem came back after I thought I fixed it. First off the pcm plug header moves since there are three plugs hanging from it, which cause the solder contacts on the larger removable plate ro come loose. I got good reading on all of them even when moving the header. I went ahead and soldered each one anyway. I recommend doing this even if they test well, and you will see why when you see the pathetic amount of solder they use at the factory. And now from my experience not that if your voltage regulator dies that all you have to do is remove it from the larger plate that has to be removed as its all surface solder and not through board chip soldering which makes it very easy to replace if you can solder well and can find the regulator chip. Now it runs perfect with 3.5 more mpg. That is until the bad connector on the ignition coil gets replaced, cuz when I move it in a certain way it dies. That's easy so I'm not worried about that.

Bustedback

This is the best answer. The PCMs in some Chrysler products had this problem on the 2000-03 model years.

dave1123

The problem with the production soldering is not new. These circuit boards are "wave soldered";that is, soldered by a standing wave that just splashes the bottom of the boards as they pass over the solder tank. Not only that, but the newer "lead-free" solder can turn brittle over age and vibration. It is surprizing to me that they last as long as they do.

JJCIII

Lol, its sad that the first thing you think when you first look at it is... Wheres the solder?