Groaning/Binding During Turns
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Model: Cherokee(SJ)
Groaning/Binding During Turns
Hello All! I’m new here so if I am in the wrong place just let me know. I recently purchased a 2004 GC Special Edition with a 4.7 4x4 QuadraTrac. 180,000 miles. It has a few things that need attention and I am getting to them one by one. My main concern at the moment is the turning issue.
When I test drove it I didn’t even notice any noises while turning because I didn’t really do any turns. Mostly very wide turns etc nothing to tight. When I drove it home I noticed how during regular turns, not nessarily sharp there is a low groaning noise, vibration on the wheel and seem to need extra to keep it going. This happens both turning left and right. Turning sharply or into parking spaces is just plain painful. If I turn into a space i need to keep the accelerator going a bit because the Jeep will actually come to a stop before I get into the space.
After doing some research, some say its the VC, some say it’s the front diff., the rear diff, the TC, the frond DS, and even worn fluids. So I thought to get the easiest out of the way first. I already changed the front diff fluid (75w 140 with mopar FM) and the TC (Fluid also from ). The front diff fluid didn’t seem horrible, no metal shavings, very little stuck to the magnet. The TC fluid was super NASTY.
Anyway I haven’t gotten to the rear diff yet. In the next day or two for sure. The noise and issue still exists with little/no noticeable improvement. Any suggestions, or advise? Any would be much much appreciated. THanks in advance!
When I test drove it I didn’t even notice any noises while turning because I didn’t really do any turns. Mostly very wide turns etc nothing to tight. When I drove it home I noticed how during regular turns, not nessarily sharp there is a low groaning noise, vibration on the wheel and seem to need extra to keep it going. This happens both turning left and right. Turning sharply or into parking spaces is just plain painful. If I turn into a space i need to keep the accelerator going a bit because the Jeep will actually come to a stop before I get into the space.
After doing some research, some say its the VC, some say it’s the front diff., the rear diff, the TC, the frond DS, and even worn fluids. So I thought to get the easiest out of the way first. I already changed the front diff fluid (75w 140 with mopar FM) and the TC (Fluid also from ). The front diff fluid didn’t seem horrible, no metal shavings, very little stuck to the magnet. The TC fluid was super NASTY.
Anyway I haven’t gotten to the rear diff yet. In the next day or two for sure. The noise and issue still exists with little/no noticeable improvement. Any suggestions, or advise? Any would be much much appreciated. THanks in advance!
Newbie
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 5
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From: Dutchess County NY
Year: 2003
Model: Grand Cherokee(ZJ)
Engine: 4.7
Hey Nathan,
I'm no expert, just a guy who has had 4wd's all my life. When I have had similar sounds from my front end while turning, it has always been the front U-joints. Of course the trucks I had in the past were not full time AWD so who knows, good luck with it though,,Brian
I'm no expert, just a guy who has had 4wd's all my life. When I have had similar sounds from my front end while turning, it has always been the front U-joints. Of course the trucks I had in the past were not full time AWD so who knows, good luck with it though,,Brian
Old fart with a wrench
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 14,398
Likes: 740
From: Manlius, east of Syracuse, NY
Year: 2000 XJ Sport & WJ Laredo
Model: Grand Cherokee (WJ)
Engine: 4.0L
I'm assuming that's a 4.7 V8, right? That would have the NV247 constant 4wd Quadratrac II with 4hi, N, and 4lo, correct? If this is right, there is a gerotor pump in the transfer case that pressurizes a clutch to drive both axles and is supposed to disengage when cornering sharply. It requires a special lubricant from Mopar and I'm willing to bet someone put the wrong lube in it. Start by completely flushing the t/case and putting the right lube in. Then you can go from there. I think the clutch plates are sticking and not releasing when necessary. This is at least better than the old NV249 where the viscous coupling was a sealed unit and had to be replaced when this happened.
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Thanks!
Thanks Brian,
I will be throughly going over the front end over the next couple of months. Ill make sure to check the U-Joints carefully.
Hey Dave,
What you are assuming is correct...4.7 V8, Quadra-Trac II, 4hi - N - 4lo. I replaced the fluid in the TCase already with fluid from Mopar. I suspect the fluid was wrong to start with because when I drained the fluid...IT REEKED! It smelled like burnt/spent gear oil. It was really black. I actually thought to maybe do a change again in a month or two, and really flush out the previous fluid. I have someone really insisting that its the rear diff. I am not too sure since the noise is coming from the front. I will probably post a quick video soon of the noise. Hopefully we can narrow it down! Thanks again!
I will be throughly going over the front end over the next couple of months. Ill make sure to check the U-Joints carefully.
Hey Dave,
What you are assuming is correct...4.7 V8, Quadra-Trac II, 4hi - N - 4lo. I replaced the fluid in the TCase already with fluid from Mopar. I suspect the fluid was wrong to start with because when I drained the fluid...IT REEKED! It smelled like burnt/spent gear oil. It was really black. I actually thought to maybe do a change again in a month or two, and really flush out the previous fluid. I have someone really insisting that its the rear diff. I am not too sure since the noise is coming from the front. I will probably post a quick video soon of the noise. Hopefully we can narrow it down! Thanks again!
Old fart with a wrench
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 14,398
Likes: 740
From: Manlius, east of Syracuse, NY
Year: 2000 XJ Sport & WJ Laredo
Model: Grand Cherokee (WJ)
Engine: 4.0L
This is what happened to my rear diff. Check your front one.The carrier case cracked resulting in a lockup.
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Model: Cherokee(SJ)
Whoa! That doesn't look like any fun! I checked my front a few weeks ago. Upon a quick inspection it seemed to be in good working order with little to no real wear.
Here is a link to a vid I just recorded. The noise is a little hard to pick up. Feel free to skip to 2:00. Almost all the noise heard in that part when I make the turn is what it sounds like. All seems to be coming from the front.
Here is a link to a vid I just recorded. The noise is a little hard to pick up. Feel free to skip to 2:00. Almost all the noise heard in that part when I make the turn is what it sounds like. All seems to be coming from the front.
Newbie
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 1
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From: Hendersonville, NC
Year: 2002
Model: Grand Cherokee (WJ)
Engine: 4.7L V8
TC flush
I'm assuming that's a 4.7 V8, right? That would have the NV247 constant 4wd Quadratrac II with 4hi, N, and 4lo, correct? If this is right, there is a gerotor pump in the transfer case that pressurizes a clutch to drive both axles and is supposed to disengage when cornering sharply. It requires a special lubricant from Mopar and I'm willing to bet someone put the wrong lube in it. Start by completely flushing the t/case and putting the right lube in. Then you can go from there. I think the clutch plates are sticking and not releasing when necessary. This is at least better than the old NV249 where the viscous coupling was a sealed unit and had to be replaced when this happened.
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Old fart with a wrench
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 14,398
Likes: 740
From: Manlius, east of Syracuse, NY
Year: 2000 XJ Sport & WJ Laredo
Model: Grand Cherokee (WJ)
Engine: 4.0L
Never having worked on a 247 t/case IDK for sure, but I can recommend something. If it were mine, I would drain it real well, then pump a bunch of standard ATF thru it until it comes out clean. Let it drain for awhile, then fill it with the special Mopar lube. If it gets dark in a few days, drain it and refill with fresh fluid. I know that fluid is a bit pricey, but well worth the investment.
You should see an improvement on the way it works on turns in a few days once the crap gets worn off the clutches. If not, seek professional help.
You should see an improvement on the way it works on turns in a few days once the crap gets worn off the clutches. If not, seek professional help.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 2,856
Likes: 201
From: syracuse ny
Year: 1997
Model: Grand Cherokee (ZJ)
Engine: 4.0, new lifters valve job with new springs and exhaust valves, preload set with shims
hehe Seek professional help...I like that one.
Hey you can always jack up each front wheel and spin with the tire on and see if you hear any noise. Use a lug wrench to spin it.
Hey you can always jack up each front wheel and spin with the tire on and see if you hear any noise. Use a lug wrench to spin it.
Old fart with a wrench
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 14,398
Likes: 740
From: Manlius, east of Syracuse, NY
Year: 2000 XJ Sport & WJ Laredo
Model: Grand Cherokee (WJ)
Engine: 4.0L
Ah...no. You can't spin a front tire separately, stupid! Not with a 4wd. BOTH tires up, yeah. Even with a Q-trac in neutral, it won't work.
Last edited by dave1123; Jun 10, 2018 at 09:20 AM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 2,856
Likes: 201
From: syracuse ny
Year: 1997
Model: Grand Cherokee (ZJ)
Engine: 4.0, new lifters valve job with new springs and exhaust valves, preload set with shims
Oh contraire, my Syracuse colleague! Mine spin all day long! Remember, not everyone has a stuck transfer case!
Old fart with a wrench
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 14,398
Likes: 740
From: Manlius, east of Syracuse, NY
Year: 2000 XJ Sport & WJ Laredo
Model: Grand Cherokee (WJ)
Engine: 4.0L
Okay, I was thinking of an AWD where all 4 are locked together. Please forgive me, I'd been up all night at that point.
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