Have you tried the poor man's prime?

1. Key on (wait for pump to spool)
2. Key off
3. Key on (wait for pump to spool)
4. Start

If it doesn't do it after that, it's either a bad check valve at the fuel pump assy. or a leaky fuel pressure regulator.

 

I'll try it. I'm kinda' dumb, but how do I know that the pump has spooled? Does it make noise? Thank you very much.

Okay: I tried it, and it seems to have started a lot better. I don't know if it's the pump or not, but I could hear a faint clicking noise, I think. (I'm almost deaf from working around helicopters and stuff) Anyway, it seemed to make a difference. Thank you. I'll also check the three things that you mentioned. I appreciate the help.

 

lol... yeah in a carpeted grand cherokee you probably won't hear much. Basically if you count "one, one-thousand" after you turn the key, that's enough time for it to have spooled.

If you're in an XJ with holes in the floors and no carpet (like me), you'll hear a "zzzzzt" sound.... and then if you're also like me and have bypasses the ballast resistor, you can hear that thing buzzin' all the time. I feel like I have tinnitus when I drive now

 

Hahaha... That's hilarious. Like most Jeeps, just turn up the stereo. Thanks again.

 

Any time man.


Between howling tires, wind noise, and my stereo - yeah I hear no problems!

 

Was getting off the hwy saturday night and had smoke coming out of the hood. When I looked there was oil everywhere. couldnt tell where it was coming from but I know my rear main and oil filter adapter were both previously leaking. Could the rear main blow and cause massive oil loss like that? I have only ever seen them leak on the 4.0s. Any thoughts as to what went? It still holds oil pressure (somehow) and never overheated so its saveable.

 

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So after doing some digging on the forum here I see that the 2 pcv elbows should be different and I distinctly remember from doing mine that they were the same. I read that this can cause oil blowing out of dipstick as well as rear main seal. Could this be the case?

 

Mine were the same, but then again I have a '92 with the OEM aluminum valve cover

 

A question for those of you who know more than I.

Are the stock diffs open, lsd, posi? I am asking the question as we finally got more than 6" of snow here Southwest Alaska, and had to dig my WJ out last night. Only 18-22" or so of drifts, and then she settled out. Not fun, glad my passengers were in as big a hurry to get home as I was, 3 of digging made short work of clearing it out and off we went. Just curious as I see trac-lock diffs and wondering whats the difference between them and a standard locker if I bought one. Thanks.

 

It's hard to say, because it depend on the year, model, and drive system of your WJ. For more information on what's standard, go to wjjeeps.com

From personal experience, my 2000 WJ with the 4.0 and 242 t/case has open diffs and 245/70R16 Cooper Discoverer AT3s. I have no problem driving thru 24" of dry powder snow with it in 4wd part time. Where it get dicey is if the snow underneath is heavy enough to lift the body and break traction or if there's ice underneath.

 

I went to oreilys last night to get the stuff for a new valvecover gaske, rear main, and oil pan gasket and the only guy in there that is an actual mechanic looked it up and it is two different parts. one is a valve the other an elbow. He gave me 50% off since they screwed it up, great guy lol

 

As Dave said, it varies. My 2000 WJ with 2wd and the 4.7 liter came with a Dana 44a and factory Trak Loc (LSD). So it's possible you have it, but it's possible you don't...

Interesting. What year is your ZJ again?

 

94

 

Yeah that's really interesting. 1 goes to the intake for crank case ventilation, the other goes to the top of the air filter box for... well... crank case ventilation lol.

At least, that's what it is on mine. They're both called "CCV Elbows" for the 92 model year. Never heard of a "valve" being part of that. I'd say must be a ZJ thing, but the motors weren't really any different.

The one connected to the intake has a vacuum on it and will pull air OUT of the valve cover, the other connected to the filter box will pull air IN. Although, there must be a certain amount of "push/pull" there because one of the big complaints is finding oil on the air filter from that connection.... a lot of people end up installing an oil catch can for that reason.