Okay, this jeep (WJ) has the np247 transfer case which is constant 4wd just like the older ZJs with the np249 t/case. As far as lifts are concerned, it's no different than other jeeps that use the same platform,ie;double solid axles and coil springs. the 2005 and newer ones (WK,WK2) use independent front suspension and don't take as easily to lifts.

 

sorry for the noob questions....so no concern with it being awd and being able to take it on trails and the beach? It will perform just as good as 4wd?

 

Hi all, I have a 1997 grand cherokee 4.0 4x4 starts a little rough, than idles great but at 1500 rpms starts backfiring through intake and exaust and won't rev any higher I've done cap, rotor, crank sensor, pick up coil and new pcm any help is much appreciated

 

Not in high range. The NP247 doesn't use a mechanical differential and isn't locked like a true 4WD case. It is a clutch-based differential that has pressure applied by a little internal pump, that engages the front axle when it thinks it's necessary. In low range that little clutch is locked in place so you get actual 4WD.

In some areas AWD is even banned on beaches. I think this was South Carolina or Georgia. Really the high range is intended for on-road use only.

Have you checked the fuel pressure? Replaced spark plugs?

 

have pulled the front o2 and drove it

 

okay noob question, got a MAC code reader that will read OBD I, where would i find that plug on my 94 ZJ? I know on a newer car its below the steering wheel.

 

[B]thank you dave1123 battery termals clean. No over charging alternator. Just got back from having both batteries tested. Wet cell 100% optima 25%. I haven't gotten a chance to install either but will tomorrow. I greatly appreciate your response. Thank you so much. I hope my 20 year old charger is faulty. My jeep is one of two running so ol'silver back is vital to my current survival. Being a guy that has made more then his fair share of mistakes child support and bankruptcy your response means a great deal to me thank you.

Update ~update~

The weather broke and 40s isn't to bad. After taking both batteries to the local autoparts. The optima is 25% of predictable cycles of use and to my surprise the wet cell battery is at 75% predictable cycles of use.
The positive battery terminal appeared to be slightly larger then the positive battery post. Bad (loose) connection and close to zero weather. Not to mention a defective Sears battery charger. I didn't consider replacing the positive with a aftermarket connector because of the TWO power cables needed one for the starter and one to power distribution box or fuze box.
I removed the nut on the positive terminal opend of the soft lead up a bit with a pair of Stout needle nose pliers. The I took a cut a piece of Romex wire 3 inches made a open endded loop. Like a upside down (U). The bend the (U) a second time at the legs at 90°. Place the hump of the upside down (U) up through the eye of the terminal, then push on to battery positive battery post. As pictured.
/B]






And around the the bottom between battery and the terminal.

 

thanks for the info!

 

High pitched whistle...Brake booster leak? Exhaust manifold leak? Alternator?

 

OMG!!! I can't believe you're actually using that piece of crap! I have bolt-on replacement ends on both my battery cables with 2 wires in each. I don't see the problem why you can't. That copper wire is going to get hot when the starter draws it's load. On a cold day, it's probably around 300 amps. What's that third wire for?

 

Howdy: My 96 XJ has two fans, one belt driven and one electric, like it's supposed to. But for whatever reason, the electric fan is jump wired to one blade on a 15 amp fuse in the fusebox instead of more formal wiring, and I think that may be causing some codes I'm getting, like running too cool (cuz the fan is always on). How can I find the place the electric fan should be connected so I can hook it up right and have it under computer control?

 

The fan won't affect how cool it runs, because if the thermostat is doing its job the coolant is not flowing into the radiator until the thermostat opens. I would guess someone hardwired that fan because it wasn't kicking on as it was suppose to, or they just wanted it to run all the time versus at a higher temperature.

I'm not sure where it should connect at normally, but someone may be able to help you there. But I will say you should replace the thermostat with a Mopar OEM 195 thermostat to correct your under cooling condition.

 

Thanks for the reply. Funnily, when I got the XJ I thought the temp gauge or sensor might be bad because it never went up more than a notch above hard left. But I thought maybe it just had a stuck-open thermostat. So the first thing I did was to go to put in a 195-degree thermostat, and when I opened the housing, I discovered the thermostat was missing entirely. Since putting in the thermostat I'm running a little below the top 210 peg, I assume right at 195, maybe slightly cooler. I'm going to see what happens if I just disconnect the electric fan, but someday I'd like to wire it up properly, just cuz I like things to be as close to factory as I can make them. Funnily, it's also throwing code 44, meaning bad signal from the battery temp. sensor. I discovered that the sensor was missing, along with the battery tray. The battery (wrong size) is being held in with a strap of metal screwed to the frame. It's satisfying to find an old XJ that's been mistreated and make it right again.

 

I have a 98 Jeep Grand Cherokee (ZJ) 4.0l and I've been experiencing some problems it's starts to buck and it starts around 3,000 rpms and when you let off or drive slower it stops. I've read on another forum that the problem was the O2 Sensor or either the fuel pump. Has anyone else here had the same problem?