Its not alot. If your not paying attention you dont really notice it. But its the clicking in the dash that has me stumped. Its a audible as well as tangible if you lay your hand on the relay panel.

 

So the PO of my "new" 96 ZJ broke off a bolt in the block got any advice of the best way to go about it? I think it's one of the long ones and the last time I tried to use one of my harbor freight easy outs I wasn't successful at all.

Furthest right bolt on the bottom row
Click for full res

 

Hellp, I have a 2000 Jeep XJ with a 4.0. I wanted to take a look at my throttle body, and see how dirty it was. When I took it off I was sure to remove everything gently, look out for vacuum lines (including the one under the MAP sensor), and was sure to put everything on exactly how it came off. When I put it back on (after cleaning) my idle was higher in park (1100 rpms), and rough in both drive and park (bounces from 1100-800)! After buying a new IAC sensor (which I later returned because it didn't change anything), double and triple checking all of my connections and bolts, and buying a new TB gasket it still idles high and rough!! I sprayed some throttle body cleaner around my tb to see if I had a vacuum leak, and my engine didn't surge at all. If anyone could please give me some suggestions on how to get my jeep idling smooth and lower please let me know.

 

You might want to try in the Cherokee section, but maybe check the screws on the butterfly valve, I've seen where that could make the idle change a few hundred rpm here and there. Maybe also try resetting the computer and fuel maps? Hopefully the other thread has some good ideas.

 

It sounds like a vacuum leak to me. When you removed the TB, did you knock one of the other vacuum hoses off, like the 2 that are on the outboard side of the manifold? These are for the canister purge valve and leak detection pump. On my WJ, these are hard plastic lines with molded rubber elbows, which tend to crack.

 

Ok, so I bought a new tcase for my 94 zj and am going to swap them. it currently has the 249 and I am going to a 242. Both are off a 94 zj with auto trans. Do I need to pull them apart and swap inputs or can I know for sure until I pull mine?

 

You should be okay on the input shaft, but you're going to need a different rear drive shaft. A Selectrac shifter bezel would also be helpful.

 

Ok, well may be a dumb question, but, I thought the only difference between the cases was that there were a few different input shafts?

 

If they were behind the same transmission it should be fine. Details here: https://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledg...g-input-gears/


And surely you know that the 242 has more options than the 249 and different internals. Hence the requirement for a new bezel and shift gate.

 

Ok. Thanks. They are both off of the same model transmission, and both are 94. And yea I know about the bezel, not too worried about how it looks if it works. May just paint it black if I cant find one to match.

 

I think you'll find the 242 is about 2" shorter than the 249 because of the lack of a tailshaft housing, thus requiring a longer driveshaft.

 

https://kevinsoffroad.com/249-to-242...ruction-guide/

Here is a write up on the swap. He does swap inputs but doesnt mention changing driveshafts. I will look tonight and measure to see though.

 

Grand Cherokee Limited 2009 WK 5.7 doesn't want to take gas. The pump constantly shuts off regardless of the position in the tank fill tube?

Any suggestions?

 

Pump slower

 

Tube fender flares like the Dirtbound Offroad ones on the front only. Yay or nay?

Haha wrong ask a question thread.