azdave35

hi guys..i ended up getting a 96 g.c with a 6 cyl....runs good and everything seems to work on it but sometimes it just dies at idle...it starts right back up..it also tried to die while i was going around a corner...ive read it is usually the crank sensor causing the problems on g.c.'s...i wasnt sure if one this old has a crank sensor or not..does anyone know if a 96 has a crank sensor and where they are located?...thanks in advance

Cherryokee

This sounds less like a CPS problem and more like a much simpler Idle Air Controller (IAC) issue. Simply cleaning your Throttle Body (TB) and IAC will likely fix your stalling problem, all for a whopping $5 bucks in materials (TB Cleaner and soft cloth or wood-backed brush) and about 30 minutes of your time (includes prep, disassembly for access, clean, test, clean, test, reassembly). With the engine OFF, look at and inside (actuate linkage by hand) of the TB. Can you see the brownish gum/varnish that builds-up inside the TB and on the underside of the throttle blade? You will also see a little rectangular hole beneath the open throttle blade, in the passenger side wall of the bore, that's the IAC port.

Spray TB Cleaner on the top of the throttle blade and its perimeter, open the throttle blade, hold open with one hand and spray more inside the bore with the other. Using soft cloth or brush, agitate/wipe away whatever/wherever you can.

The IAC is mounted on the passenger side of the TB. If memory serves me right it has a connector (lock-latch may be sticky - spritz a little TB Cleaner on it first) and it is secured with two torx fasteners (as was on my '99). DO NOT force, rotate or actuate the IAC shaft. Draw it straight out of its bore - put it down for a sec., hose-out the bore with TB Cleaner, wipe where/what you can, gently hose clean the IAC, drip & shake dry, re-insert gently then restore fastener hardware & connector.

Note: Use soft cloths/brushes and be gentle as internal surfaces may be damaged by cleaning too-aggresively.

The engine will be hard to start at first due to all the ingested TB Cleaner. A couple few more cranks should fire it right up. Feather it a few times then let it warm up while you monitor the idle conditions.

Don't be in a hurry to throw new parts at it. You'll frequently find that simply cleaning, uncoupling/recoupling and restoring of things can resolve most nuisance issues. Good Luck.

BTW: While you're cleaning the TB, you may find the cable/connector to the CPS (if the '96 has one?) on a stand-off bracket by the driver's side rear of your engine and running down toward the tunnel where the bell-housing goes...the CPS (if) would be located atop the bell-housing flange. You can uncouple and re-couple that connector just for the sake of reseating the contacts.

dave1123

Plastic safe electrical contact cleaner and canned air work the best for cleaning the connectors.

azdave35

thanks for the replies....things got a little worse last night....i tried to start it and it wouldnt start...cranks fine but no start.....i pulled the codes using the key and got 4 codes...12,,,54...43...55

azdave35

i tried hitting it with starting fluid...then checked for spark....no spark...do these g.c.'s have a cam sensor or an ignition module?

Bustedback

Since you don't know the history of this vehicle I would suggest replacing the cam and crank sensors. The cam sensor is under the distributor cap, the crank sensor on located on the bell housing at about the 11:00 o'clock position on the driver side. Taking the front driveshaft loose from the axle and moving it out of the way will give you more room to get to the sensor. You'll also need a long extension and either a wobbly socket or universal to get to the bolts.

dave1123

Code 12 is start of test, code 55 is end of test. Code 54 is no cam signal and 43 is multiple cylinder misfire. I would suspect your cam sensor **** the bed.

I would go with Busted's suggestion.

azdave35

i'll go down to the dealer monday and get cam and crank sensors...i'll report back and let you know how it goes

azdave35

guys..i think i figured out the problem....i went to the dealer to get the sensors ..not in stock so i ordered them..i stopped by the junkyard on the way home and bought a used camshaft sensor just to see if that would make it run.....i stuck it in and it fired right up...while i was changing it i noticed the distributor shaft had alot of play..like an 1/8 inch..i'm guessing it shorted out the old cam sensor...might be something for some of you other guys to check that been having trouble with your jeep dying

Cherryokee

Azdave35, Nice work.

And a tip o' the hat to dave and busted for taking the "crap" out of "crapshoot".

azdave35

thanks for all the help guys...

dave1123

I believe there is a brass bushing in the bottom of the distributor that needs to be replaced. Why not go back and grab the whole distributor from the donor?

azdave35

hi dave...i went back and checked the dist in the boneyard and it had a loose bushing too.and they wanted 30 bucks for it...i bought a new one for 40 bucks...i drove it around all morning and still running..it was stalling and stumbling a little when i first took off but after it warmed up its running fine

azdave35

i took the gc for a ride today after changing the distributor...after a couple miles it stalled on me again...i had a remote starter switch with me so i turned the key on and wiggled wires while i cranked it...when i wiggled the plug on the pcm it started right up..when i let go of the plug it died..so i put some tension on it with bailing wire and got it home...so i guess i'll be pulling the pcm and fixing some solder joints...i'd appreciate any advice from anyone that has done this before,,,thanks in advance