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Old 12-25-2016, 05:15 PM
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Hummmm, ok I have not dug into it yet but I have a smallish electrical problem... Can anyone give me a direction to look? The drivers side door is dead.... No power functions at all... Mirrors, door locks, or windows.... I am thinking a fuse is most likely but not sure. I just boight this beauty so I am still learning what is where on it.
Old 12-25-2016, 09:16 PM
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Welcome to CF!

Check the wire bundle where it goes from the door to the body for broken wires inside the rubber boot. From the constant flexing, they can actually break inside the insulation.
Old 12-25-2016, 09:30 PM
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Why thanks for the welcome Dave. I was really hoping I would not have to rip into that part of the door harness, since I do that at work so much. I was really wanting to hear there was a fuse to check. Lucky for me we have the de-pinning tool at work... Anyplace on the forum that has the wire diagram for our Jeeps or am I just being overly optimistic?
Old 12-26-2016, 05:37 AM
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IDK what year you have, but check out pacificcoastmanuals.com for a complete year specific FSM, downloadable for $7.99+tax. 93mbs of compressed pdf files. THE best manual I've ever seen for jeeps!
Old 12-26-2016, 09:28 AM
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2004 Grand...
Old 12-26-2016, 11:46 AM
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Nice looking ride! Who's brushguard do you have on it? That may be exactly what I'm looking for.
2000 WJ cheap Laredo
Old 12-26-2016, 01:15 PM
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The brush guard is a pure Jeep Unit... Came stock on the 03-04 Freedom Grand Cherokee. Same with the rims and nurf bars...
Old 12-26-2016, 06:49 PM
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So I guess the black bumpers and side cladding is stock too? I was going to paint my stupid grey ones which I hate!

Let me look at my FSM and see if I can find a fuse, but I'm thinking the whole system would be not working, not just one door.
Old 12-26-2016, 07:19 PM
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Like Dave said, it sounds like the wiring in the DS door between the door and the body. i have had to fix many a jeeps that had that issue.
Old 12-26-2016, 07:21 PM
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Okay, it looks like it could be the Driver's Door Module itself. If the windows and door locks work on the other doors, it gets confusing. Your best bet is a DRB Scan Tool and a diagnostic procedures manual. Of course, the dealer has those! The problem with these models is they are on a Can-Bus data link system where everything is interconnected. It's like a bunch of terminals connected to a mainframe computer, but it gets worse. Each module has limited diagnostic functions and are "mothered" by the PCM.

I am totally glad I bought this 2000 cheap model because it's complicated enough without having a bunch of added modules to contend with. I can still figure most of it out. This will probably be the "newest" vehicle I'll even own! My next jeep will probably be an old beat up Cherokee! I'm 72 and have worked on all kinds of vehicles since I was 16. I'm too old to learn any more electronic diagnosis, or even care to.
Old 12-26-2016, 07:27 PM
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Yes the truck is 99% stock... Just the radio.... So far... We bought it three weeks ago. On your body side moldings... Clean them with adhesion promoter and get to the parts store (or Wally World) and pick up rattle cans of spray in bed liner (we used Dupli-color) on my sisters YJ plastic parts. Looked great!
Old 12-26-2016, 07:32 PM
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We have this week off but I might slip down to work and grab out Matco scanner and test the door modules in both doors and the BCM
Old 12-26-2016, 07:45 PM
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Oh dave, you are never to old... I do some crazy stuff at work... I modify the wire harness of GM pick-ups and SUVs (even the caddy) and Dodge Mega-cab. I fool the can Bus system to think that doors are locked and shut when they are not. (To get the remote start to work with the doors open) and to convince the airbag and stabilitrac system to work with stuff missing after we convert them... They are not that hard to work on once you understand what info they are looking for.
Old 12-27-2016, 05:12 AM
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My jeep came equipped with an aftermarket remote start installed by the previous owner and the first thing I did was remove the batteries from the fobs. I didn't want it anyway and I've heard too many horror stories about them interfering with the factory security system. I looked at the unit under the dash, but there were way too many small wires to even THINK about removing it. There are 2 10amp fuses in holders next to the unit. Do you think I can remove them without any problems?

I wish there was some way to eliminate the ABS system because it's been not working right for the last 100K miles and I'm fed up with trying to get the light to stay off. I've replaced all the wheel sensors and cleaned the tone rings, but that freaking light still comes on. Not always, but most of the time. I can be sitting idling doing nothing and I hear that "ding" and the light comes on. Luckily, NY doesn't require it to work! As far as braking is concerned, it works when it wants to. I pulled the 2 fuses and I get weird VIC warnings like "Memory seats deactivated, seat belt fastened" I don't have memory seats and the seat belt WASN'T fastened! WTF!
Old 12-27-2016, 11:04 AM
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The remote start is the easy part... I would axe the system totally.... It mostly tied into dome light/door latches, parking lights, ignition starter and brake lights.... Cut anywire that is tee'd your factory harness and reconnect any wire cut and connected... Cheap aftermarket remote start systems are garbage. I stay away from systems that hack the factory harnessbecause if they fail you are stuck in the parking lot and then good luck finding anyone who can fix them. Also most installers are HACKS who dont know really what they are doing.



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