rgs80074

Hello everyone

recently got bad news on my kia vehicle its going to take some repairs to get done some i don't feel like i can do quickly and effectively.

so this is leaving some repairs for my jeep for myself to do.

last friday when driving around picking up laserdiscs my caliper froze when driving home, originally thought my ac clutch bearings did something until i got home and see the smoke coming from the tire, also had much less power than normal and burning rubber smell.

anyways

today i replaced the pads on the kia (i can do some work on vehicles) so its at least running without a problem.

on the jeep i replaced the pads and caliper, many told me if the rotors feel good still don't worry about them, they felt just fine in fact the one with the caliper that froze and the other side don't look any different they look as i'd expect a rotor thats 3 years old to look.
so replaced both front pads and calipers.

i was hoping that since i lost very little brake fluid i would be good but when i was about to take the vehicle for a test drive, i wouldn't' do it because there was no brake pressure.
no i did not bleed the brakes i've not had good luck in the past and didn't have a bleed kit handy, but i guess the new calipers contained a lot of air in them. i tried pumping the brakes over and over seeing if it would slowly work the air out and after 50 or so pumps there was no real difference in the brake pedal although the brake light did go out so i feel bleeding is the only way i am going to get this done so i can get it up and running and then work on some other repairs for it (another thread).

whats the best way to bleed the brakes, both front calipers was replaced, nothing in the rear was touched and the pedal was nice and stuff/solid before replacing them any kits you would recommend or anything.
should i bleed them from the passenger side first or does it not matter since both sides need to be bleed for it to go back to normal.

thanks

ryan
1996 jeep grand cherokee
2wd 4.0l 6 cylinder engine
automatic

jon-d

bleeding brakes is pretty basic. just one of many different methods, connect a hose to the nipple and using an end wrench open the bleed valve after someone in the vehicle has pumped on the breaks and is pushing it down. Close the valve when the peddle reaches the floor and repeat until the air is out. Start with the passenger side since that is farthest away from the master cylinder.

i am not sure why you thought the breaks would not require bleeding after replacing the calipers.

rgs80074

well i figured they would but since i didn't have much fluid coming out i was hoping.
time was an issue since i had to bump these repairs back to get other vehicle repairs done first for my daily driver.

i don't recall bleeding the brakes on my old jeep 1998 (may she rest in peace) when i did them but that was probably like a decade ago

seems like i opened the brake fluid tank and pumped the brakes and the air bubbled out, maybe i did bleed them and just don't remember, i know that jeep had awesome brakes had that texter not waited to the last moment and pull out in front of me i would have been able to if not stop slow down enough not to hit her.

maybe i should buy some more bleeder screws (not that these ones are bad on the new caliper) i might as well try to bleed them on my van too but i know at least one bleeder screw in the back is stripped guess vice grips or something to get it off.

it may be pretty basic but i've only had to do it on one or two occasions ever.

i mean my understanding is each line is separate so i really wouldn't need to mess with the rears since nothing was touched on them just the two fronts that was replaced? i guess i could start with them and bleed them and if the pedal don't return to normal like it was could do the backs.

its all a matter of time, ability to be outside, and money. too much stuff to do with so little time. working at nights and doing split sleep is not the best thing to do.

thanks for your input.

ryan

caged

first things first, did you install the calipers correctly. i know this sounds strange, but many, and i mean many have made the mistake of putting the left caliper on the right. they fit, they look correct, but the bleeder needs to be above the brake line. if it is not, you will never get them to bleed out properly and will not get a stiff pedal.

also, i always crack the bleeder and tighten it hopefully before the pedal goes to the floor. this way i can pretty much guarantee that the pedal didn't back off and let air back into the system. i get my wife to do the pedal pumpin, she's gotten pretty good at it with us owning like 9 jeeps at a time.

also, make sure the reservoir is always full. if you have old brake fluid in there, siphon that out and put in new brake fluid. bleed until you see clean, new fluid.

you can always buy a vacuum bleed kit from napa or harbor freight, they work well enough, and are quite easy to do.

or, you can gravity bleed them, i have never really used this method, and if i did, i'm sure i finished off with a pedal bleed anyways.

i have really good pedal feel on my 90, but i also swapped out to a dual diaphragm booster and am very happy with the brake power on 36's.

rgs80074

hello,

yes the calipers are on correctly. i just didn't bleed the system due to running out of time and was just hoping i wouldn't have too but that does not appear to be the case.
so until i get time in a day or two its going to sit.

might wait a few extra days cleaning at the house is being done and we are sure i have a vacuum bleed kit i purchased when i did the van, the van needs to be bleed as well but its got at least one stripped bleeder screw i have to replace. its brakes work well enough to drive but not like it should, the jeeps i'd be scared to go anywhere with it the way they are.

ryan

wingless

When I bleed / flush the old fluid from my brakes I used the Motive Products Power Bleeder, very similar to the one shown in the link.

This is by far superior to all other methods I've used in the past.

This is "easy" one-person operation, with excellent results.

Note that a likely source for the caliper having locked is notches on the caliper knuckle, causing the pad to bind.

wingless

An overheated rotor is probably damaged and should be replaced.

wingless

When I updated my steering, suspension and brakes, as-shown in this reply, I used these Raybestos R-300 Rotors.

rgs80074

i was worried about the rotors myself but they appeared fine, they only was a couple of years old.

the worker at autozone is a mechanic and when i took the rotors in a mobile mechanic was there too

they both looked at the rotors and said those was fine

they look fine, and feel fine

you'd think they would have wanted to sell me new ones anyways as those was just out of warranty period.

however once i get the system bleed i'll be testing it and it if don't feel right they will be replaced. but the less money i spend on these repairs the more i have for other repairs.

wingless

This characteristic problem is revealed by a visual inspection of the knuckle where the pads contact the knuckle.

This is repaired either by replacing the knuckles or by properly filling with weld then grinding flat.

97grand4.0

Replacing the brake calipers will require them to be bled. When you took the old ones off the brake line drained out the fluid, and the new caliper is empty from the factory. Perfect opportunity to get new fluid in them and the lines also. With new caliper you should have no problem at all because the bleeder screw is brand new. . A couple slow pumps should have fluid squirting out. Then just wait until it flows out and close the bleeder. For about $10 you can pick up the plastic bleeder bottle kit from advance or autozone which is a one person operation, just plug it into the open bleeder and pump a couple times. Have used this on many vehicles, quick and easy works like a charm to get 100% of the air out and new fluid in.

jeepdewd

When I changed out a caliper I bled the lines using just gravity.

Jack up the front of your vehicle and open up back passenger first then driver side. Put front end down open up front passenger and then do the driver side. Just let it run into a cup. Keep an eye on your reservoir and fill as it drains. Do not reuse the fluid coming out of caliper.

Let the fluid run out for about 5 min on each caliper.

Pump the brakes a couple of times and your good.

I have never experienced any braking issues after this method. I did this about 2 years ago maybe a little more