Ok here's my mess...

Replaced the front pads and rotors but in the process I accidentally broke off the caliper bleeding screw on the front driver side. So I had to replace it. Well now I assumed I need to bleed the system so I bought a mighty vac bleeding system and went to open the rear driver side and broke that bleeding screw off also. I can't get to the rear screw to back it out with a screw extractor or anything. So at this point I have the front breaks blead but not the rears. The pedal is still really spongy. I guess my question is is there anything I can do beside take the whole rear drum off? Any help plz!

-Mike

90 xj laredo i4.0l

 

1) Buy flair nut wrench.
2)Buy new wheel cylinder. They don't cost much.

 

Yep, if you can't get the rear bleed screw out, you'll have to replace the wheel cylinder. They are cheaper than having to replace a front caliper. Whenever bleeding brakes always start at farthest wheel from the master cylinder and work your way to closest. This will best get rid of that pesky air.

 

Ok another crazy question....When I lost fluid from the reservior I lost only in the rear part not the front. Is the front part for rear fluid and rear for front fluid? If so would air get into the rear lines if the fluid did not run out of the front part of the reservoir?

 

The disk calipers need more fluid to work as the pistons have a larger diam. then the rear wheel cyl. so to answer your first ? yes-- The two systems(front - rear) are separated by the proportioning valve and are designed to protect you in the event of a brake failure at the front or the rear. Given the age of your xj, the system can have some bleed by in the proportioning valve-this is normal and you will need to bleed all lines to remove any air. Since you are bleeding them you will be better off taking the time to remove all of the old brake fluid from the bowels with a turkey baster, and refill with new fluid before you start bleeding the system!! Hope this helps

 

if your rear reservoir is empty then it means you have a leak. check the lines from the master all the way to the wheel cylinders. if their fine then pull those drums off. most likely the wheel cylinders are leaking. the best way to bleed the brakes is to start at the wheel farthest from the master (RR) and work your way to the closest wheel (LF).Good luck!

 

It was empty because he replaced a caliper. Rear res. is for front brakes

 

Ok I guess how i'm gonna have to attack this is just to replace the wheel cylinder. Gonna get a flare wrench and try like hell not to screw up the brake line. Hopefully I can get the shoes and springs off and put back on with out messing them up either cause there fairly new. Then on to the other side.

Hopefully the other bleeding screw with not break off!!

Thanks!

-Mike

 

before you start, take a picture of the configuration of the rear brake hardware, spring and wire location and pad configuration.
it really helps if you're not comfortable with rear drum brakes.