pwb

Hi, where can i buy the armor that is arround my brakelines/tubes? I have replaced my steel lines with new copper nickel since they was rusted. But the armor is rusted to and i want new, but where? Does rockauto has them and what should i search for?

dave1123

I believe that armor is put on the tube before it's bent. I've used steel compression springs, but they rust in no time. We used them on drag cars where the brake line passes the flywheel area.

pwb

I did find this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Steel-brake-line-spring-armor-for-3-16-line-96-long-ford-chevy-mopar-/261257377736?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cd42737c8&vxp=mtrBut he dont send to Norway and i need i fast :-(

dave1123

Where do you need to use it? Do you feel the line's in harm's way enough to warrant using it? Also, if you've already bent the line, good luck getting it on. As I've said before, I've used nickel-steel compression springs available at any good hardware store or industrial supply house.

Been there, done it, got the t-shift.

pwb

I need them to get the coppernickel line thick enough to use the original fasteners/brackets. I dont think its any problem getting them on, i have taken of the old one without any problems, but they are rusted so i dont want to use them. But, i got some PVC tube thet i can use to get the copper nickel line thick enough where the brackets are, is that good enough? There is also a place where the rear line is coming up into the engine bay where there is a "jacket" around it and i thought i had to have it inside that?

dave1123

What I've seen done before is to use short pieces of vacuum hose sliced lengthwise under the brackets. The main thing is to stop vibration from damaging the tube. I've never used copper-nickel tube before, but it sounds like a good idea. Copper and nickel are the main components of bronze. How difficult is it to flare?

I believe the jacket in the engine bay is to protect the brakes from flying pieces when the engine grenades. Not very effective because the master cylinder is exposed. I once saw a Corvette blow a chunk of flywheel through the dash and windshield. NOTHING will protect from that.

pwb

Its easy to flare, i used tha same tools as on copper. Its also easier to get nice straight lines

dave1123

Will it double-flare without cracking? I may use this from now on for replacements.

pwb

Mine didnt crack, but i dont know if they will, first time i have made brakelines.

dave1123

BTW, I only have a tube bender for 1/4" tubing, but I've used it on 1/8 and 3/16 without problems. You just have to bend it slow. I can get a complete 180* bend with an 3/4" radius. It's made by Imperial. I've even made S bends and sine-wave bends to shorten ready-made tubes. I've also used steel hydraulic compression fittings to join pieces, although the state inspectors had doubts. These fittings are good to 2000 psi without leaking or blowing the tube out. I had to show the inspector the design of one before he reluctantly passed it. These have a one sided ferrule that actually bites and raises a burr on the tube. I found these when working in machine repair. They can be purchased at any good industrial supply house.