XJ makeover, One tons and 40's.
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Former Sponsor
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 2,181
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From: meriden Ct
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Got the rear yoke changed. Ended up throwing the front shaft in the rear. Fits perfect. Got one perch all welded in and the other is mostly welded in.
All I have to do is put the brakes on, pull the hubs, install new seals, adjust the bearings and bolt the axles in and the rear is done.


All I have to do is put the brakes on, pull the hubs, install new seals, adjust the bearings and bolt the axles in and the rear is done.


Thread Starter
Former Sponsor
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 2,181
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From: meriden Ct
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Got some good work done today. Finished welding on the pass side perch.
put the driveshaft u-bolts in, torqued the axle u-bolts, pulled the hubs, installed new seals, reinstalled and adjusted bearings, installed axles, calipers, and welded in the shock mounts. I also got the new shocks mounted, 14" bilsteins.
I finally got the wheels on and the back is down on its own weight. All I have to do is seal the cover, fill it, and run the 2 brake line and the rear is done.




After that I started to mock up the frame wide track bar bracket. I cut some plate for the frame and broached some holes in it for rosette welds. I welded the plate to the unibody and up to where the OEM track bar mount goes and is 3 layers. Should be ok.


put the driveshaft u-bolts in, torqued the axle u-bolts, pulled the hubs, installed new seals, reinstalled and adjusted bearings, installed axles, calipers, and welded in the shock mounts. I also got the new shocks mounted, 14" bilsteins.
I finally got the wheels on and the back is down on its own weight. All I have to do is seal the cover, fill it, and run the 2 brake line and the rear is done.




After that I started to mock up the frame wide track bar bracket. I cut some plate for the frame and broached some holes in it for rosette welds. I welded the plate to the unibody and up to where the OEM track bar mount goes and is 3 layers. Should be ok.


Thread Starter
Former Sponsor
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 2,181
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From: meriden Ct
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I'm trying! Anyone want to sponsor me and supply me some DOM???
I'm going to pull the front back out Thursday and start gearing. I just have to drill all the holes to 5/8" and get some hardware and dom, and ill be in business.
I'm going to pull the front back out Thursday and start gearing. I just have to drill all the holes to 5/8" and get some hardware and dom, and ill be in business.
Banned
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,231
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From: West Springfield, MA
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
CF Veteran
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,045
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From: Oceanside So Cal
Year: 88
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 renix
hey bud, IMHO i would add some lateral bracing for your rear shock towers. the changing load throughout the shocks travel will make the tower want to deflect side to side, eventually leading to failure. something as simple as a cross bar from tower to tower will do wonders.
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 6,685
Likes: 6
From: Jacksonville, FL
Year: 92
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
hey bud, IMHO i would add some lateral bracing for your rear shock towers. the changing load throughout the shocks travel will make the tower want to deflect side to side, eventually leading to failure. something as simple as a cross bar from tower to tower will do wonders.
build is moving along nicely!
Thread Starter
Former Sponsor
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 2,181
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From: meriden Ct
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I didn't and don't want a crossbar taking up space in the rear. The front of the hoop is actually plated to tje inner wheel well for support, although I don't think its an issue. They will eventually tie into tje cage also.
The main reason for them coming through the floor is that from the factory the lower mount hangs 5" below the axle. The only was to raise it above the axle, still use a long enough shock not to inhibit flex, and actually have them be affective (not at a 60 degree angle under the jeep where they don't even move) is to go through the floor.
The main reason for them coming through the floor is that from the factory the lower mount hangs 5" below the axle. The only was to raise it above the axle, still use a long enough shock not to inhibit flex, and actually have them be affective (not at a 60 degree angle under the jeep where they don't even move) is to go through the floor.
Thread Starter
Former Sponsor
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 2,181
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From: meriden Ct
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
We got the front end back in the garage for final welding and gearing. AAAAAANNNNDDDDD I picked up my new favorite tool, this thing is going to make gearing SOOOO much easier. You can never beat having the right tool. Tried it out on the 60 carrier bearing that got damaged and it zipped it right off.






















