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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 04:38 PM
  #46  
nick_n_ii's Avatar
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From: Kalkaska, Michigan
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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That is the plan..

I've never been one to follow the leader...
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Old Jan 22, 2010 | 01:18 PM
  #47  
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From: Kalkaska, Michigan
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Well weathers not so bad so I figured I'd start stripping the inside.

And found that even though the rest of the Jeep is solid the floor is not so.



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Old Jan 22, 2010 | 01:33 PM
  #48  
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oh thats yummy! cancers...I know you'll fix her up better than stock though

I know i've probably already said it, but props to you. If I were closer and you needed an extra hand I'd be more than willing to drive a little ways just to say I helped on what I know is going to be a fantastic build.
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Old Jan 22, 2010 | 01:44 PM
  #49  
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From: HAMMOND IN
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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That's a lot of rust




cant wait to see the progress
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Old Jan 23, 2010 | 01:03 AM
  #50  
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From: North Jersey
Year: 1996 XJ Sport 2007 KJ Rubicon
Engine: 242 4.0 Ho, 226 3.7 V6
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How are your inner rockers. My floor rotted out to a similar extent and about 40% of my inner rockers went with it. Certain areas are hard to spot until you start cutting out the floor rot.
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Old Jan 23, 2010 | 03:36 AM
  #51  
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From: crawfordsville, In
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Floorboards could be worse. You should se this parts jeep I have. Body is immaculant, not a stitchof rust but when you look inside thefloorbpards are so rotted. I pulled the rear hatch carpet out and the floor and frame came out with it haha. So remember!!! It could always be worse!!! Those floorboard are easily fixable. That's not that much rust honostly. You still have the frame rails to work with. That's the important part, right?
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Old Jan 23, 2010 | 07:04 AM
  #52  
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From: Kalkaska, Michigan
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Oh ya, frame rails are still in tacked..

From what i can see of the inner rocker they look good.

The Floor rot is more along the frame rail weld area's than any place else.
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Old Jan 23, 2010 | 11:17 AM
  #53  
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From: Chico, CA
Year: 1986
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.3L with headers and full 3" exhaust system
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Nick

Is that front sub frame going to be wide enough for that V10? Installing a small block is tight. Big blocks require remaking the frame.
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Old Jan 23, 2010 | 11:23 AM
  #54  
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the v10 is not a big block... it is based off a magnum small block with 2 extra cylinders and different bore/stroke
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Old Jan 23, 2010 | 12:13 PM
  #55  
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From: Oxford NC
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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dude drop that motor in i wana see it!
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Old Jan 23, 2010 | 01:37 PM
  #56  
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From: Kalkaska, Michigan
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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YA the V10 is just a 360 with 2 more cylinders.

Width and length will fit. The tight spot is the back corners of the heads to the fire wall. That's the area I'll have to move he fir wall to get enough clearance for it and future repairs that may come up.

Remember I'm a machinist/back yard mechanic first. So everything will be laid out with future repairs/tune ups in mind. I don't want to have to pull the motor to do spark plugs down the road.

Or remove the whole body to pull the motor like full size Ford trucks running the V10..
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Old Jan 23, 2010 | 03:37 PM
  #57  
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why dont you just cut the u body and weld it on a dodge chassis?
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Old Jan 23, 2010 | 04:00 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by jeepdude104
why dont you just cut the u body and weld it on a dodge chassis?
Not to be a jerk, but you do realize how much work would be involved in doing that right?
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Old Jan 23, 2010 | 04:19 PM
  #59  
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From: Kalkaska, Michigan
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Cause the build plan in will be a complete internal Buggy with less work than putting a true frame under it...
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Old Jan 23, 2010 | 05:34 PM
  #60  
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yeah its even more to custom install these upgrades.
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