How much were the bushings? I don't really have sway bar bushings aha. I need new ones.

 

Only $7 from Summit Racing, but you have to measure your front sway bar in mm to make sure you get the right ones.

 

Just did the 784 fuel injector swap today. Will see how it goes.

It does have a smoother idle for sure. Throttle response is iffy iffy. Maybe a little better.

 

Wow.... I didn't realize you were still running it.... yeah, it doesn't make a difference in sway control, but I know I noticed a little difference in articulation with mine - just seemed more free.

 

Yeah, when I hit a bump in the rear now, it seems more dampened and less stiff without it.

 

Well I found this awesome tool at Tractor Supply. I'll be throwing it under my back seat for a rainy day.




Oh, and for $4, I also found this there:

 

Well, the 784 injectors appear to be treating me well. So I will be keeping them in there. They have much better results than the Ford orangetops.

I am currently looking for a 136 or 160 amp alternator for my Jeep that I'm hoping to swap in shortly.

 

Today I spent a little time chasing down why my driver's side speaker randomly chooses not to work.

I removed the boot in between the door to find that none of the wires are broken. It appears I may have connector corrosion.

 

They are probably broken internally. Mine looked fine but I had to replace them from the speaker to the connector behine the kick panel to get them to work right

 

Where did you get your replacement? Just a junk yard pull and then splice?

 

Just used a roll of speaker wire and redid the connections

 

Nice toilet seat you got there.

 

Today I did another coolant flush to try and do away with the residual gunk from the last coolant flush.

I also dug into my dash a little bit to find out why my heat isn't working. I have very cold AC, and when I turn heat on full blast, it's not very hot.

I immediately though the heater core was clogged, but today while I was flushing the coolant system, it seemed that a lot of clean water was coming out of the heater core just fine, and it didn't really look like it was leaking in the cabin (or at least not that much, as there may have been a drop or two from where I siliconed my firewall, and it could have ran through the cracks in the silicone that I made while I was yanking on the heater hoses). So I think my heater core may be fine (or at least, fine enough).

On the other hand, the blend door actuator motor doesn't appear to be working anymore. I took it down from under the dash and applied a 9v battery to it and got 0 movement. Also, I inspected it connected to the system only to find that it wouldn't move with the controls. I opened it up and found water and coolant all inside of it, and I bet that the motor shorted out. So I will get another actuator motor, and I will seal it up real good with some silicone before installing it. If that doesn't fix it, I suppose I will attempt replacing the heater core?

 

Alright, today I found out that the heater core has a leak in it. I suspected it since yesterday the blend door actuator was all wet with water and coolant. So now I have a big job ahead of me. I'll go ahead and do it since a shop will want well over a grand to do it.

 

I've ordered:

A new HVAC gasket kit from Mopar ($80)
A heater core ($50)
An evaporator core ($60)
A blend door actuator motor ($40)

With all of that installed, I hope to fix the leaky heater core and get my heat working again. I'm going to go ahead and tear the dash apart myself instead of using a shop to save a bunch of money.