never knew you had that underneath

 

yea not a lot of people do lol. It's pretty well hidden unless it's up in the air due to the trailer hitch.

 

SUPER DUPER UPDATE....

MY FLOORS ARE DONE!!

Yes that's right...I finally took a weekend to dedicate to finishing the floors in the jeep. Quite a while back I ripped the carpet out and welded in new floor pans, but the floors have been a mixture of seam sealer and primered metal since then.


So I pulled the seats out and broke out the grinder with a wire wheel to clean everything up one last time. This is what i've been dealing with for a year or so...




Started with a good coat of Chassis Saver (similar to POR-15 but IMO more durable and far cheaper) on the top of the pans since I had some left over, and hit the entire trans tunnel with some primer.




Next, ever since I removed the carpets i've been dealing with a lot of noise in the cab, and a ton of heat coming off the trans tunnel, almost hot enough to burn skin some days. Sooooo to address that I picked up some generic 100% Butyl (no asphalt) foil backed sound deadening off ebay, and used a cheap seam roller to lay it out in the top of the footwells, the entire trans tunnel, and some low-impact areas of the floor pan. Entire floor was then roughened with a stripping pad, and wiped clean with enough MEK to kill off a small village








After speaking with a Monstaliner rep, i grabbed a can of 2K Epoxy primer to help the coating stick to the foil-backed sound deadening. This should prevent any adhesion issues.






Time for the liner! I chose a product called Monstaliner from Magnet Paints (same company that makes the Chassis Saver product). There were a number of features that made the choice very easy. It's completely UV fade proof, has none of the rubber chunks other liners use, it has a very smooth texture that is not abrasive, and you have the choice of almost 40 different colors. I used a 1 gallon kit and had a decent amount left over. I also got a mini roller set with proved to be very useful for the tight corners and the edges of the floor pan.



The color i chose is called "Pyroclastic" - kind of a dark grey / charcoal color. The tintable liner is actually white, which I didn't expect



But it created a cool swirl when mixing. Note: Once the catalyst is added to the mix, this stuff gets REALLY potent. A NIOSH respirator mask is an absolute MUST with this stuff.



5 minutes later i was left with this. Only 10 hours of pot life left! Let's get cookin...




The instructions are very specific to take a small amount of liner out of the can at a time to use, and to seal the can between fill-ups. The liner is a dual-curing urethane, so the less exposure to the air and moisture, the longer it will last before flashing off. It was extremely hot and humid the day I rolled the liner on, so I stuck the can inside the house in the a/c as well. Even doing so, a good stir-stick mixing session before each refill was necessary to get the workability back into the mix.

I started with a decent quality polyester brush to get all the tight corners, then moved on to the small roller, and finished with the large roller. The product rolls surprisingly easy - just like interior house paint. The rollers are unique - can't just buy them at Home Depot - and are what gives the rolled liner its texture (remember, no crumb rubber in this liner). The liner application requires two thick coats with 4-5 hours between coats (far less when it was as hot as it was the day I did it - you can re-coat when the surface is no longer tacky).

Anyways, enough with the technical stuff, this is how it turned out after putting some of the interior pieces back in place:







This is an excellent representation of the final texture. It's certainly bumpy, but extremely smooth.




And I also lined the bottom of the seat brackets to match




I don't have any feedback on the impacts of the liner and sound deadening yet. The seats are still out since the product takes up to 7 days to fully cure and harden to 100% durability, although with it being so hot and humid lately here, i'm positive it's almost done out-gassing. I plan on throwing the seats and the rest of the trim back in tomorrow so I should have some opinions soon.

From basic appearances however, i'm very pleased with the product and would recommend it to anyone.

 

Also, picked up some parts for engine bay projects in the near future:

New HP power steering hose
New PS pulley to install onto my WJ steering pump
A/C bypass pulley so I can remove the compressor and mount my air horns
A windshild repair kit to mend the crack in mine
And a roll of heat tape to apply to the bottom of the intake manifold when I replace my exhaust manifold.

 

good call on the new pressure line. mine blew a hole in it after my wj pump went in and only leaked when i was at full lock

 

Thanks for the writeup on the floors. Really helps out a lot. You should post a permalink to that in the post you put up on the facebook group so people can get the in-depth skinny.

 

yea i have a slow leak coming from SOMEWHERE, either the back of the stock pump or the HP line, can't figure out where. Sometimes it SPRAYS at reverse full lock directly onto the exhaust sending up a nice cloud of smoke though the hood vents. Scared the **** out of me the first time it happened lol.

Figured it probably needed it anyways and was fairly cheap from rockauto.

 

good idea

 

Thanks! Yeah, I think most of the people in that group seem to not be making the connection to the website and the group... might help to post up some links and articles and whatnot.

I've seen the XJtalk group do that and it seems to work well.

 

Woah that floor looks nice, now that I don't have to drive my jeep to work everyday I'll be loooking into this.

 

put the seats and sill trim back in last night. Drove it to work today - seems much quieter inside and definitely much less heat coming from the trans tunnel.

 

Exactly what I was hoping to hear

 

Upgrade update

Currie Currectlync steering has been installed. Painted with the signature Danger Cart colors. SUPER BEEF - makes my v8 ZJ steering look like a toothpick

 

I've heard a lot of talk about the amazing CorrectLync, and I just assumed it was crossover. I'm curious, why did you opt to keep the inverted-Y setup?

 

one word - packaging

Inverted-Y just plain works, I had no reason at this point to switch to a different setup. If i went crossover, there would be packaging/setup issues that would need to be worked out as well as relocating the trackbar mount higher, and inverted-T is not desirable unless you have high-steer knuckles and a very flat trackbar setup, and even then you'll end up with a dead spot.

One day i'm sure i'll do a crossover setup. Not worth it to me now though. Currie's setup is tried and true on rigs that are beaten well beyond what mine sees, and fits my needs perfectly at this point in the build.