Project black sky
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 938
Likes: 1
From: Alto, MI
Year: 2002
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.7
Nice build man! I'm not sure how I missed this thread. Sucks about the damage, but that's why we build right? To have fun. Keep it up man. Looks good!
Thread Starter
Honorary Moderator
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 8,135
Likes: 16
From: Gilbert AZ/Las Cruces NM
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 upgraded
Thanks man! and yeah just time to refine a little bit haha. this is not my first driveshaft.... altho at $20 i have no problems replacing them. might pick up a spare this time
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,626
Likes: 1
From: Maryville Tennessee
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
I have been meaning to ask.I have my spare inside now and I see you have yours up top. I was thinking about putting mine back up there so I have more room in the back,have you ever had any times wheeling where the weight up there was a issue?People kinda freak me out talking about how top heavy I would be.You have more lift and bigger tires than me so you would probably know!
Thread Starter
Honorary Moderator
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 8,135
Likes: 16
From: Gilbert AZ/Las Cruces NM
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 upgraded
my rack weighs in at just under 100lbs, then I have the spare and hi lift up there. I have never had an issue with it. just gotta adjust your wheeling style a bit and some times a spotter and a strap helps too. but i wheel in the rocks and all sorts of off camber situations no problem
Thread Starter
Honorary Moderator
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 8,135
Likes: 16
From: Gilbert AZ/Las Cruces NM
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 upgraded
some photos just because it is a nice day (still need to swap out the leaf packs so ignore the saggy rear end)
Thread Starter
Honorary Moderator
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 8,135
Likes: 16
From: Gilbert AZ/Las Cruces NM
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 upgraded
this is what I did....
and also installed my leaf springs. new vs old:

Okay so this is a quick How-To when changing u-joints. I am doing this on the axle end (no yoke or spindles to deal with) but the same process will be used if you did have to deal with a yoke or spindle.
First you take the U-Joint off, In this case let it fall off...

Then go ahead and press out the old joints with a ball joint press. Make sure to remove the spring clips on the caps.

I always push the u-joint in and out both directions to make sure the caps are not seized

Then pull a cap off (may take a little force) and pull the u-joint out

then get your new u-joint and pull a cap off making sure not to mess up any of the needle bearings

Stick it in like so:

Next stick the other cap on so you can push the u-joint in

and push it all in

make sure one spring clip is installed:

then make sure that the u-joint is full pressed against the clip


repeat process if you have a spindle or a yoke to do as well
First you take the U-Joint off, In this case let it fall off...

Then go ahead and press out the old joints with a ball joint press. Make sure to remove the spring clips on the caps.

I always push the u-joint in and out both directions to make sure the caps are not seized

Then pull a cap off (may take a little force) and pull the u-joint out

then get your new u-joint and pull a cap off making sure not to mess up any of the needle bearings

Stick it in like so:

Next stick the other cap on so you can push the u-joint in

and push it all in

make sure one spring clip is installed:

then make sure that the u-joint is full pressed against the clip


repeat process if you have a spindle or a yoke to do as well
So being as lifted as I am and still running a slip yoke I run into an issue... The yoke does not allow enough movement when the axle is dropped at all and you get the clack-clack-clack of the drive shaft ears hitting the yoke (shiny spots in picture)


so to fix this issue I take a Dremel:

and clearance the Yoke out. I did this to my last yoke and never had an issue, but since I killed that driveshaft and installed a full replacement I needed to do it to this one
I took enough off to give me 3* more drive shaft angle than I would ultimately need (i will never droop my axle far enough to hit the yoke ever again)




took it for a test drive and everything was perfect!!


so to fix this issue I take a Dremel:

and clearance the Yoke out. I did this to my last yoke and never had an issue, but since I killed that driveshaft and installed a full replacement I needed to do it to this one
I took enough off to give me 3* more drive shaft angle than I would ultimately need (i will never droop my axle far enough to hit the yoke ever again)




took it for a test drive and everything was perfect!!
and also installed my leaf springs. new vs old:






