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MJ 9.5" long arm build

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Old Jan 21, 2012 | 01:02 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by 89eliminator
oh, and whats the build date on the driver door say?
Its been too cold to go out and do any work, my garage has no heat. Lol. But I did check my build date, 8/91
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Old Jan 21, 2012 | 04:06 PM
  #17  
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ok. just wondering. anything with 4/92 or 5/92 is rare because they stopped making them around that time.
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Old Jan 21, 2012 | 05:10 PM
  #18  
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man, I wish I had a MJ
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Old Jan 21, 2012 | 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeffvador
man, I wish I had a MJ
Ya, I love mine!!
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 11:23 AM
  #20  
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Well it was too cold to work, then it warmed up and we had ourselves a little flood. Literary talking feet of water in my garage and house! Apparently someone filled up a swamp(poorly) and built my house there. But thats another story. So I am in the middle of major home repairs, but this has given me some time to cut more materials and do some re-thinking of my exact design. Im not really using a fancy link calculator for this, just going under the jeep and doing what fits. I have played with these things and what they say never works out unless you are building a buggy around the suspension. My question is to some of you guys that have chimed in here that have a little more experience with design than I do.
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 11:28 AM
  #21  
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Question is with exact link seperation at the axle and frame in relation to anti squat. I always thought the closer to the same the seperation was at the frame and axle the less anti squat you had. If you have your links at the frame too close it will pick the front up on climbs. But im reading that some guys are saying the only way to cure AS is to have your links parallel to the ground? Which is it? Im doing this to have a good suspension that out performs off the shelf kits. I want to get it right. I'd like a little squat and I can winch down the front if I have too.
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 12:22 PM
  #22  
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i did what you are doing. i just laid under my jeep with some 2" PVC and see what could fit where. i didnt cut holes into my floors for the upper link mounts like some people. i didnt even modify anything to make them fit (i.e. driveshaft, exhaust). the thing about MJs is the wheelbase. you have some "leeway" with link mounts and separation. i built my 4-link and it is extremely stable on hill climbs. ZERO unloading.
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 12:45 PM
  #23  
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Sweet, thanks alot man.
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 01:02 PM
  #24  
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here are some pics that may help you...


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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 02:41 PM
  #25  
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Real nice work, I had been checking out those pics in your profile already. About how much lift does that setup by be you? Bottom of framerail to ground?
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Old Feb 2, 2012 | 01:02 PM
  #26  
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got quite a few of my pcs. made. arms mostly done, adj. ends done. just need to get into gear and get to installing it. someone at my shop was nice enough to mess up on a job with a TON of cromo tubing. so i got 3 6'ers for free, cant beat that. boring ant threading it was not easy though. if i hadnt already had the tap and a lathe to do it on i woulda just bought adaptors.
Attached Thumbnails MJ 9.5" long arm build-rthujtyujty.jpg   MJ 9.5" long arm build-rtysrtyhsrthsdrt.jpg  
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Old Feb 2, 2012 | 01:03 PM
  #27  
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that tubing is 1.88 od x 1.25 id. thats 5/16 wall cromo! shouldnt bend!
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Old Feb 2, 2012 | 01:04 PM
  #28  
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i had to take a break from this and actually do some real work! lol
Attached Thumbnails MJ 9.5" long arm build-dgserghsrthgtr.jpg   MJ 9.5" long arm build-trhsarths.jpg  
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Old Feb 2, 2012 | 01:06 PM
  #29  
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ill get some more pics tonight
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Old Feb 2, 2012 | 01:07 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Trev1006
Real nice work, I had been checking out those pics in your profile already. About how much lift does that setup by be you? Bottom of framerail to ground?
i never measured bottom of frame rail to ground. but it has 6.5" coils in it that have sagged to about 6" of lift.

nice work so far. are you going to use some sort of flex joint?
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