Ironmans 2 door build down
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,883
Likes: 6
From: W-PA
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Sweet. Is this crossmember welded on to the frame rails? Also what is the average length of the long arm needed to run this crossmember? i would like to see if my RC LA's would be long enough for that. They are set around 29-30" currently at 4.5" lift.
Thread Starter
Former Sponsor
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 316
Likes: 0
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
This welds to the outside of the frame rails and bolts through the pinch seam on the inside. The johnny joint is in line with the front most factory cross member bolt. You can use that as a reference
A.
A.
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,883
Likes: 6
From: W-PA
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Thread Starter
Former Sponsor
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 316
Likes: 0
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Test Phase
I have to put it through testing.
Watch the vendor showcase.
I will make 2 sets available an XD and budget set
both will be 100.00 under sale price for testing
Andy
Watch the vendor showcase.
I will make 2 sets available an XD and budget set
both will be 100.00 under sale price for testing
Andy
Do you hear banjos?
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 9,644
Likes: 6
Model: Cherokee
Radius arms:
Im just too big of a 2 door nut to trade for anything else.... sorry.
So I have been working on a few adjustments on my long arm design and decided to convert to 2"x .281 wall DOM for the main body. everyone else uses .250 wall and folks who know me know I like to always go a little bit farther. I was using 1.5" cold rolled solid which is actually harder to bend but folks like the big tube look and I like this Next part..... I took 30" and tapped both ends 1.5"x 12tpi thread 6" deep. After seeing a rubicon long arm kit spit out its 1.25" joints because they lacked threading I decided more than necessary is totally necessary. The 1.5" shaft on the joint is huge compared to the standard johnny joint dimensions etc. it also has 5" of thread so that nothing will ever ever ever come apart. I thread both ends to allow for easier fine tuning of the angles and dimensions.
I also love that there are no tube inserts. This arm is one piece of tube. This is the direction I am changing my long arm kits to, but this is the setup going on this two door. Here are a few pics of one of the arms. I made a few sets tonight after work for fun.
Let me know what ya'll think I try to shape my products around what ya'll actually want.
The bracket/cross member setup will be up here shortly It will eliminate the stock T case mount and use a simple poly bushed setup to lock down the trans even harder.
A-
So I have been working on a few adjustments on my long arm design and decided to convert to 2"x .281 wall DOM for the main body. everyone else uses .250 wall and folks who know me know I like to always go a little bit farther. I was using 1.5" cold rolled solid which is actually harder to bend but folks like the big tube look and I like this Next part..... I took 30" and tapped both ends 1.5"x 12tpi thread 6" deep. After seeing a rubicon long arm kit spit out its 1.25" joints because they lacked threading I decided more than necessary is totally necessary. The 1.5" shaft on the joint is huge compared to the standard johnny joint dimensions etc. it also has 5" of thread so that nothing will ever ever ever come apart. I thread both ends to allow for easier fine tuning of the angles and dimensions.
I also love that there are no tube inserts. This arm is one piece of tube. This is the direction I am changing my long arm kits to, but this is the setup going on this two door. Here are a few pics of one of the arms. I made a few sets tonight after work for fun.
Let me know what ya'll think I try to shape my products around what ya'll actually want.
The bracket/cross member setup will be up here shortly It will eliminate the stock T case mount and use a simple poly bushed setup to lock down the trans even harder.
A-
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Parachute, CO
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I got some time to get back to this tonight for a little bit and decided to mess with the sway bar disconnects. I don't really like anything available as far a cheap discos go and the JKS ones still get loose after a few dirty rides. I decided to just up and re invent this wheel. I want a firm joint so the sway bar will work well and not clunk around so i decided to go with my internally centralized bushing setup. I also wanted it to be super easy to adjust. So I decided to go with left and right hand threading for a dial in adjustment. I spent some time on the lathe and this is what I came up with. These Discos are strong enough to double as control arms. Actually it is stronger than some of my competitors arms heh heh.
The threading is 3/4 16tpi left and right, machined from 1 peice of 1" solid CR
The ends are from 1.25" CR and have 3" of threading. I figure these will work from a 4-8 inch lift no problem. I hope to end up with about 5.5."
Ill post up more pics when I have them finished with the bushing set up. I may switch to a 2" johnny joint on one end. I am also looking into the narrower johnny joints for better clearance.
The threading is 3/4 16tpi left and right, machined from 1 peice of 1" solid CR
The ends are from 1.25" CR and have 3" of threading. I figure these will work from a 4-8 inch lift no problem. I hope to end up with about 5.5."
Ill post up more pics when I have them finished with the bushing set up. I may switch to a 2" johnny joint on one end. I am also looking into the narrower johnny joints for better clearance.
--Matt
