how about we just trade jeeps. mines a 96 country with a 4.5 rough country lift, it measures more than that though. lol. good lookin jeep

 

I used to have one in my old 98 5.9 zj it handled the 300 hp fine and Im trying to keep this a simple build for the sake of simplicity and I dont have much time as I spend all my time building control arms etc.... I would love a set of gen II 44s from a jk rubicon ya know but those get pricey I am also trying to do this reasonably as well. I just finished my first set my new style long arms that will go on this. pics up later tonight.
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Im just too big of a 2 door nut to trade for anything else.... sorry.

So I have been working on a few adjustments on my long arm design and decided to convert to 2"x .281 wall DOM for the main body. everyone else uses .250 wall and folks who know me know I like to always go a little bit farther. I was using 1.5" cold rolled solid which is actually harder to bend but folks like the big tube look and I like this Next part..... I took 30" and tapped both ends 1.5"x 12tpi thread 6" deep. After seeing a rubicon long arm kit spit out its 1.25" joints because they lacked threading I decided more than necessary is totally necessary. The 1.5" shaft on the joint is huge compared to the standard johnny joint dimensions etc. it also has 5" of thread so that nothing will ever ever ever come apart. I thread both ends to allow for easier fine tuning of the angles and dimensions.

I also love that there are no tube inserts. This arm is one piece of tube. This is the direction I am changing my long arm kits to, but this is the setup going on this two door. Here are a few pics of one of the arms. I made a few sets tonight after work for fun.





Let me know what ya'll think I try to shape my products around what ya'll actually want.
The bracket/cross member setup will be up here shortly It will eliminate the stock T case mount and use a simple poly bushed setup to lock down the trans even harder.
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Those look super beefy....

 

beefy enough hahaha
wow re build it man it would be awsome
and we want pisc. tons of them
good luck

 

I'm trying my best to document as much as possible without giving away my goodies. This is also my livelihood you know. I definitely love this stuff and this side project is my downtime because I spend 70+ hours a week running Ironman. I'll try and make these pieces and parts available to those who want them. especially the monster joints. The ones in this picture are BDS joints but I am switching to Currie because the ball centers and hardware are all hardened. I Am also working on a wrap to go around the shell of the flex joint to double the strength. I am also working on a over the knuckle idiot proof steering setup that will appear on this build.
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the D44a should handle the 33s just fine.. If you were closer, i would offer you mine! I'm wanting to swap in a d60 outback of my ZJ

 

dang those LA's are beast mode

 

I put in the motor mounts tonight. What a PITA with the old renix set up ugh! anyway I forgot that 92 and older XJ driver side engine brackets are a little different and I had to trim the bushing a little bit. A flap disc sander on an angle grinder makes fast work of that.

here is the old mount (dead) next to my new one

 

So after thinking about how big the threading was on the stud of the joint I always felt like the shell of a johnny joint was a little thin for my liking (.200) The bds joints are .250 thick but The Currie ball center and washers are hardened and much stronger. So I decided to make a .1875 (3/16) x 1.5 wrap to go around the outside of the joint shell making the shell roughly .3875 thick I think that is close to thick enough. The joint pictured is a BDS joint but This will work for both joints. So i now believe I have one of the toughest johnny joints available.... well so far I only have this one pictured.
I put it next to a standard currie 2.5" johnny with the 1.25"x12 TPI threading. This is their standard joint. Oh and a nickel for comparison. This thing is a monster. but if the entire front axle is going to float on these two points I wanted to make sure it never floated away.





I will make these available for sale in a few weeks as well as a custom length link service utilizing .281 wall tubing for 1.5" (2" tubing), 1.25"(1.75" tubing) and 1" (1.5" tubing) threading applications

 

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He said that it had 11", so with a SA set up on that much lift has to ride like a tank, regardless of the spring rate. I don't think he has driven it much though. Those links are just stupid, I love it!!

 

There is 1 down side to Taping the DOM. The inner diameter is not a consistent round or size. If your going to do it this way, you need to pre-ream the hole first. Get's it true round and a constant size. Other wise you chance having weak threads that you do not know of.

I know this fact do to for many years in a machining environment I used DOM and this was something in a manufacturing environment we had found.

But other than that little thing to be aware of your doing a great job in going big and beefy...

 

I check all of the tubing I use before hand and it is always within .001 of What i am looking for. All of my threading is full height/depth etc where if you buy a 1.5" bolt the threads are actually 1.485 mine are 1.5
The .281 allows for this threading to work perfect. That is why they manufacture That specific wall thickness. I have never seen DOM that is not within .001 of requested spec or round I don't know what DOM you were using but thats odd to hear. I also tested these threads up to 56,000 lbs that is the stall of my press.... No movement. I couldn't get the threads of my 1" arms to let go.

The coils are skyjacker 8" plus a 3" spacer...ugh! I have some Rubicon 5.5s I am going to run. That jeep actually rides better than I expected. I offer a little of that up to the TSLs having a light balloon effect and smoothing things out.
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Awesome products, great thread.