No write up, but I can walk you through it.

Go to your local junkyard and find a 1998-2002 Ford Escort or any type of vehicle with a manual interior trunk release and remove the release handle and cable and plastic hole stop.

It basically works very similarly to a hood release cable.

The handle easily comes of the cable by pulling a tab back slightly and removing the cable end.

Remove the hatch panel carefully and drill a hole a size smaller than the plastic hole stop about 1-1/2" - 2" directly above the drivers side of the hatch release mechanism.

Drill a corresponding hole in the hatch panel and feed the cable through the hatch panel.

Add the plastic hole stop and push it into the hole you drilled in the hatch.

Connect the end of the release handle to the hatch release mechanism, I just used a piece of fencing wire.

Remount the release handle and that's it.

I will be removing my rear hatch panel sometime in the next couple of weeks and can get some pics for you and do a proper write-up then.

 

Alternator relocation in progress - I'm working on relocating my alternator from the stock low location to the original ac compressor location

This is where I'm up to so far:
(please don't judge my welds - I know the aren't the greatest)



Mocked up some mounting tabs first using cardboard then transferred to 1/8" steel plate



Cut out and "cleaned up"



Holes drilled and mocked up - Phase 1 of test fitting




Another view



Top view



Welded up (I told you I'm not the greatest welder)



I apologize for the horror scene of these welds



The alternator bolted in the welded up bracket.
All cozy in its future home.



Another view



The 2" spacer I cut off of the original alternator bracket



Needed to shave off the clutch fan hub face to clear the new belt path



New paper weight - hello future Christmas gift



My bearing was seized and had already removed the clutch fan some time ago.



Started to shave down the ac bracket to accommodate the new alternator bracket.



More paper weights - Yay!

As this progresses and I get more in depth I may change this design or start over completely.

We'll just have to see how this goes.

 

What's the purpose of relocating the alternator?

 

the factory position of the alternator is pretty low and so when you drive the deeper waters or mud it can short circuit or destroy it. I did this modification a few months ago after I drowned my alternator. I'm very happy with it. Only bad thing is that you won't have A/C anymore. It moves the alternator almost a foot higher. Here's a pic of mine.

 

looks good so far. I like the custom bracket. I was lazy and just bolted the alternator bracket to the AC bracket.

 

Also, just so you know, the bolt hole in the top right corner, the alternator has a metal sleeve the moves in and out to tighten onto the original alternator bracket, so when you go to bolt bracket and alternator together, it may start pushing the sleeve thru and bend the bracket. Just thought I'd let you know.

 

I'm moving it up higher to keep it dry and free of excess mud.
I've already lost 1 alternator due to excessive water/mud build-up.

It will also make for any future alt. replacement a breeze, since its on top instead of underneath.

Moving it to this location increases the belt to pulleys contact surfaces.

It's a modification I have been wanting/needing to do for quite some time.

01-04 Wranglers had theirs mounted up here so I figured why can't I.
Similar to this except mine is unable to include the auto tensioner.
Believe me I wish I could.

 

Yeah I might end up doing that as I'm starting to become frustrated getting the bracket to cooperate.

Also I have a spacer to go in between the tabs on the right side of the alternator to keep the tabs from bending.

 

 

nickintimefilms, I watch a lot of his videos, great channel. I also have a video on how I did my high mount alternator but the sound quality isn't very good. I can post a link if needed.

 

Well took advantage of the warm "Spring" day and decided to tackle my roof sound deadener.

I used http://www.ebay.com/itm/171125667268?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT.
It has a asphalt based adhesive layer and layer of aluminum top layer.
With peal and stick design, pliable and very easy to cut.

First step is to properly clean the surface, if its dirty the material won't stick.

I used a roller to smooth out the material once applied.
The whole process took about 45 minutes. The fact that I was able to sit upright in the seats and apply the material was a big plus.

 

What's your experience with the triple fan shroud? Aside from the one being damaged how is it working for you? Asking because I currently have two mounted directly on the radiator and it still gets a bit too warm. A shroud and an extra fan hopefully would keep things in check. What are your average temps in town or wheeling?

 

Well first off I haven't taken Dat Jeep wheelin yet, sad I know.

Secondly having the fans mounted to the shroud will definitely improve the cooling efficiency of your current fans. When fans are mounted directly to the surface of the radiator it limits the cooling area of the fan to the diameter of the fan. Mounting the fans off the radiator even if its only an inch, will increase the air flowing through the radiator over the whole surface.

Before I added the shroud Dat Jeep was running an around town temp of about 210-220ish and would hit 230ish if I was sitting like in a drive-thru (no air flowing through the radiator) other than the cooling fans.
Now since I added the fan shroud and when I only have 2 out 3 fans running I hit temps of about 195-200ish driving around town and will go as high as 210 in a drive-thru.
All my fans are setup as pullers, not the less efficient pushers.

I have since fixed the broken fan and I have them wired the following way:
1st fan is wired to the stock temp switch/thermostat (210 degrees), middle fan is switched from inside the cab and the 3rd is also switched.

I plan on adding two additional temp sensor triggers to turn the 2nd & 3rd fans on @ 195 and 200 respectively.
This may change depending on what parts I can find and make work for my setup.

Aside from the fan contacting the engine issue, I would recommend a triple fan setup. Especially if you are experiencing high temperature issues, but if you simply change the fan mounting to a shroud you will see a definite improvement in temperature.

 

Awesome response thank you. I've got 2 12" fans so I'd have to buy 3 10's. Curious if I could make my own? Seems fairly simple.

 

That is exactly what i was going to do, but then I found a guy on eBay selling exactly what I was wanting.

Jeep Cherokee XJ Aluminum Fan Shroud

If I had had the extra time and proper tools I probably could have, but in the end it just seemed easier to spend the ca$h and order it.

Its worth a try and hey if you find out your good at making them, there's definitely people out there interested in buying them. I know I was.
I think just having the fans mounted to a shroud instead of directly to the radiator will help, you would probably be safe running with the 2 12" fans you already have.
If you do want to make a triple fan shroud similar to mine, I'd be more than happy to give you measurements off of mine if you'd like.
Here's the fans I purchased for my setup: http://www.ebay.com/itm/170735230629?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
They push/pull 1730 CFM each.