DD Weekend Warrior
No, I don't lick fish.
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 11,169
Likes: 26
From: Northern Kentucky
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
So, to clarify, you're still using the ford radius arms, it's just 3-linked now correct?
EDIT: nevermind... I just saw the update in the other thread.
EDIT: nevermind... I just saw the update in the other thread.
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,340
Likes: 8
From: Burlington, NC
Year: 1994...mostly...
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO, Lot's of Bolt Ons
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 5,924
Likes: 203
From: Greenville, SC
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
First off I dig the jeep, I wish I had the time/money/experience to do some of the stuff you've done with yours. A few posts back you mentioned gulches. As in gulches ohv in South Carolina?
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,340
Likes: 8
From: Burlington, NC
Year: 1994...mostly...
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO, Lot's of Bolt Ons
Yep, had a blast out there even though it was mostly flooded from a weeks worth of rain. I'll be going back for sure.
Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 148
Likes: 0
From: Richmond
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Hey, do you happen to have any details on how you did the 8.8 Disc swap onto the D44?
I'm currently in the same boat right now.
I'm currently in the same boat right now.
Well after lots of frustration the rear axle build is complete on XJ D44 out of a 87 with Ford 8.8 disc brakes. A great improvment over the crapy D35 I've had back there.
Here is how she began after being pulled out the J/Y:
New bearings, seals, longer wheel studs (Rear ZJ ones for Disc brakes), and Rubicon plates drilled to fit.
Here she is before assembly:
After a fresh coat of paint:
Fully assembled in the garage:
Old D35 Comming out:
No more leaking rear:
New D44 bolted in under the rig:
For the E-brake I went with the loop and clamp method:
Original Drive shaft was 33 1/8" long, it need to be 32" so here it is after a trip to the shop:
Looks like a good amount of slip yoke travel to me at ride hieght and no vibs at all:
Here she is sitting out back:
I can now tell a big diffrence in stoping power going down the road and I no longer have a leaking rear end. Still need to do a little fine tuning on the jeep like installing a ZJ porportioning valve for the disc brake setup. Heading out to Uwharrie this weekend so hopefully this thing will prove it's worth.
Big thanks goes out to Steve and the guys over at TarHeel 4WD and Tim over at Unviersal Driveshafts for doing all the hard work.
Also to everyone else that helped and provided advice along the way.
Here is how she began after being pulled out the J/Y:
New bearings, seals, longer wheel studs (Rear ZJ ones for Disc brakes), and Rubicon plates drilled to fit.
Here she is before assembly:
After a fresh coat of paint:
Fully assembled in the garage:
Old D35 Comming out:
No more leaking rear:
New D44 bolted in under the rig:
For the E-brake I went with the loop and clamp method:
Original Drive shaft was 33 1/8" long, it need to be 32" so here it is after a trip to the shop:
Looks like a good amount of slip yoke travel to me at ride hieght and no vibs at all:
Here she is sitting out back:
I can now tell a big diffrence in stoping power going down the road and I no longer have a leaking rear end. Still need to do a little fine tuning on the jeep like installing a ZJ porportioning valve for the disc brake setup. Heading out to Uwharrie this weekend so hopefully this thing will prove it's worth.
Big thanks goes out to Steve and the guys over at TarHeel 4WD and Tim over at Unviersal Driveshafts for doing all the hard work.
Also to everyone else that helped and provided advice along the way.