All show and no go build
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 2,752
Likes: 0
From: Nashville
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Dove into the driver door today to replace the wiring harness and dynamat the door. Took longer than expected but i wanted to make sure this was the last time I have to take the door apart.
The new used Harness was a complete success and I can now put down the passenger side window when ever I want. You have no idea how happy this makes me.
I did two layers of dynamat on the door. One on the door itself and the other on the door panel.
Last item of the day was to recharge my ac. This was a miserable failure. I did learn that my Compressor does not turn on when the ac is turned on and reading pressure on the system was well over the meters 80 psi. Time to do some research.
The new used Harness was a complete success and I can now put down the passenger side window when ever I want. You have no idea how happy this makes me.
I did two layers of dynamat on the door. One on the door itself and the other on the door panel.
Last item of the day was to recharge my ac. This was a miserable failure. I did learn that my Compressor does not turn on when the ac is turned on and reading pressure on the system was well over the meters 80 psi. Time to do some research.

Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 43
Likes: 4
From: Martinez, Ca
Year: 1997, 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
There are a high and a low preassure switches on the system. They are a common failure point. The low pressure switch is easy to get. The high pressure is a bit harder to track down. They are just switches so you can test if they are the issue by pulling the wire connector and jumping the terminals temporarily and see if the compressor turns on. Do one. Then plug it back in. Then do the other. That's how I found out my high pressure was bad.
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 2,752
Likes: 0
From: Nashville
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
There are a high and a low preassure switches on the system. They are a common failure point. The low pressure switch is easy to get. The high pressure is a bit harder to track down. They are just switches so you can test if they are the issue by pulling the wire connector and jumping the terminals temporarily and see if the compressor turns on. Do one. Then plug it back in. Then do the other. That's how I found out my high pressure was bad.
Thanks for the insight. I'll give this a shot and report back with my findings.
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 2,752
Likes: 0
From: Nashville
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Haven't done much work since its been hot. New clock spring on its way. ordered the wrong one so that slowed things up a bit. Parts have been ordered for the trans cooler install. Waiting on Hydraulic line to come in. Decided it was time to address my oil temp gauge failure. Pulled the dash all apart and figure I'll put it back together after replacing the clock spring.
I should replace some dash lights while I have the cluster out

I should replace some dash lights while I have the cluster out

CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 5,153
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From: Crofton, MD
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6, 62mm BBK Throttle Body w/ 1" Spacer, Rusty's Airtube w/ 9" K&N Conical
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 2,752
Likes: 0
From: Nashville
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I'll be updating the transmission cooler parts list as I originally didn't account for the barb fittings on the B&M aux cooler itself. I could have just swapped the cooler out for the B&M 70266 but didn't want to change the placement of the aux cooler.
I ran across an intriguing upgrade recently while considering options for more HP and Torque and that's the Chevy Vortec Swap. I'd always considered that building a 4.7L stroker was the way to go but now am not so sure. Novak appears to have created several products making the LM7/variant swap much easier and from a very high level perspective cost seems to be about the same. Either way I still need to do a lot more research.
I ran across an intriguing upgrade recently while considering options for more HP and Torque and that's the Chevy Vortec Swap. I'd always considered that building a 4.7L stroker was the way to go but now am not so sure. Novak appears to have created several products making the LM7/variant swap much easier and from a very high level perspective cost seems to be about the same. Either way I still need to do a lot more research.
I'll be updating the transmission cooler parts list as I originally didn't account for the barb fittings on the B&M aux cooler itself. I could have just swapped the cooler out for the B&M 70266 but didn't want to change the placement of the aux cooler.
I ran across an intriguing upgrade recently while considering options for more HP and Torque and that's the Chevy Vortec Swap. I'd always considered that building a 4.7L stroker was the way to go but now am not so sure. Novak appears to have created several products making the LM7/variant swap much easier and from a very high level perspective cost seems to be about the same. Either way I still need to do a lot more research.
I ran across an intriguing upgrade recently while considering options for more HP and Torque and that's the Chevy Vortec Swap. I'd always considered that building a 4.7L stroker was the way to go but now am not so sure. Novak appears to have created several products making the LM7/variant swap much easier and from a very high level perspective cost seems to be about the same. Either way I still need to do a lot more research.
But if its over $2,000 just suppercharge the 4.0 you won't regret it
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 2,752
Likes: 0
From: Nashville
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I ran across the JP article about the Banks TJ 4.0 Turbo kit in a recent mag. Didn't seem like the cost to performance gain was worth it. I'll check it out though.
Last edited by fritzthekatt; Aug 1, 2013 at 12:14 PM.







