2 Door Heep Build
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Model: Cherokee (XJ)
2 Door Heep Build
Finally getting the time to document a build I have been working on. The thread will be picture heavy as most of the work has already been done. In retrospect, this was completely not worth doing, other than just to build exactly what I wanted at the time.
Feel free to ask questions
Here is the pig on its trailer right after I had signed off on the paperwork. All said and done I got her for 1k.
Feel free to ask questions
Here is the pig on its trailer right after I had signed off on the paperwork. All said and done I got her for 1k.
Last edited by jeepbob; 01-14-2019 at 08:18 PM.
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Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Stripping
Began stripping
Plan at this point was to do minor work to get it running and driving. How naive I was.
Carpets came out and boy was there rust.
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Got the warehouse to send me pictures of what I was getting. The front pan was not exactly the correct year. But close enough, got one of the last ones in stock.
Figured out that a long flathead and hammer work great for this. Tried with an air chisel but too much collateral damage.
Did not really have any game plan for taking the old floors out. Just started cutting away with the angle grinder.
Inside the frame rails looked good. If there was any issues at this point I would have just scrapped it.
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Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Header panel is cracked.
Looks like they had a small fender bender a while ago.
Primitive caveman art from the previous owner.
No more badges
Lookin ugly.
Managed not to damage any of the surrounding structure.
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Most of the underside stripped at this point.
I tossed this trans because when I initially test drove the jeep it would not shift from 1st. Instead of troubleshooting I just yanked the whole thing. It ended up being TPS and I junked a perfectly good aw4.
Sometimes you just need a garage.
Pulled the doors and everything else.
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
That is some pretty impressive work there. Know it is a little late in the game but any chance you have a shot of the inside of the uni-body on the driver's side in the cargo area. Do you know how the rear diff breather hose goes into the uni-body back there? Attached to the plastic nipple on the outside of the uni-body? I have always been curious what if anything is inside the uni-body? Always figured it was a check valve but that is just a guess.
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I do not recall specifically if there was anything besides just the plastic nipple there (dont think so). Check valve would be a better idea like the one you see on the d30 breather hose.
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Yeah, there was nothing memorable there. You could always get something like https://www.morris4x4center.com/arb-...rb-170112.html though thats a bit expensive. What are you venting there? Both diffs, trans and tc? Also, hows fluid film been working out for you, and what are you using to spray it? Been meaning to get one of those snake cameras to check my rails out, and spray some myself.
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Yeah, there was nothing memorable there. You could always get something like https://www.morris4x4center.com/arb-...rb-170112.html though thats a bit expensive. What are you venting there? Both diffs, trans and tc? Also, hows fluid film been working out for you, and what are you using to spray it? Been meaning to get one of those snake cameras to check my rails out, and spray some myself.
Rear diff, tranny, and TC. I just bought more of the top hat breathers that the front diff uses. I did not replace the lines on the TC and tranny. I just extended them. In hindsight I don't know why I ran them over to where the front diff one is. Should have just zip tied them to the big harness loom on the passenger side of the engine compartment. They come up on that side anyway. Matter fact since I noticed what I did it kind of bugs me now. So I will have to fix it. LOL. The rear diff will remain there cause it feeds from the driver's side back so..... And for that one I just ran all new hose to the front.
Fluid Film IMO is awesome. I have a compressor and the gun kit. I tried to find a link to the gun kit but can't for some strange reason. So I posted a picture I had of mine. Those white wands. One sprays in a 360 degree pattern. Is the one I use for the uni-body. It does not spray as much as I would like though. So I started relying on the spray cans with the wand you can buy to do that. Just using the gun alone though it works fine. To me Fluid Film is not a less is more deal. I gunk up under the Jeep good. I just run it in the winter at the moment. Working on a Fluid Filmed vehicle is a mess. I power wash in October (including inside the uni-body), let it dry, and go to town. Use about a 1/2 gallon plus at least one spray can for the uni-body. Every little piece of crap will stick to it. Every so often I will run my XJ through the automated $5 wash bay. Will not pay the extra buck for the undercarriage. Fluid Film will eventually wash off. Come April I power wash it off. I had noticed that my front diff, backing plates, steering knuckles, etc were a little rust red. Nothing crazy. I figured I would POR 15 them at some point. Another product I am very pleased with. This was when I first bought the Jeep. Well this was the first year I Fluid Filmed. When April came and I power washed off the Fluid Film I noticed that everything I mentioned was now more a mud brown then rust red. It was almost like the Fluid Film had "conditioned" the metal. I never did POR 15 those areas.
Thinking it runs me about $25 to $30 per application of Fluid Film. But like I said I go heavy. The gun kit ran be about $90. I have a compressor I bought, always wanted one but kinda broke down finally just to Fluid Film, that is big enough for the gun. I got a really good deal on it though. $291.32 out the door.
I have been eyeballing those snake cameras too. Might pick up one someday.
Last edited by Ralph77; 01-16-2019 at 10:52 AM.