Northern Utah BS thread
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,968
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From: Salt Lake City, UT
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Yep its custom! but not built by me.. 
Thanks!
True true, its not all about vibration! but that's that only reason I would run a solid joint... RE has there super ride with solid bushings on both ends, and the super flex with a bushing at body side and JJ at axle.
You are right, It is weird how the pumpkin twists and the axle rotates threw the suspension cycle. I think the way my axle moves when flexing is Very odd, However it always twists in the favor of the drive-line
I FINALLY got some of the new RC flex joints, they are totally different and rubber not plastic like the old ones LOL, hopefully they last longer then the 1/2-3/4 of a trail like the other sets did...
I also reset my limit straps to give me full flex until about 2" before the spring falls off

Thanks!
They aren't only for vibration - if you want to run all solid joints, you need to have a relatively bind-free set up. A 3 link or a radius arm with only ONE upper radius in use is about the only practical way to do that in the front. A full radius arm like most of us have or a 4 link will have binding during flex that will move stuff. The rubber bushings usually absorb the difference, but if you go all solid joints, it will be more likely to tear off a mount.
If you have, say, a radius arm set up, go flex it and check it out. If you stuff the driver tire and droop the passenger, you will find the driver upper arm is pulled toward the back and the passenger is is pushing forward.
I have only heard success stories of all solid joints when there is only one link on the top of the axle. And triangulated 4-links, but that is not practical on XJ front ends
If you have, say, a radius arm set up, go flex it and check it out. If you stuff the driver tire and droop the passenger, you will find the driver upper arm is pulled toward the back and the passenger is is pushing forward.
I have only heard success stories of all solid joints when there is only one link on the top of the axle. And triangulated 4-links, but that is not practical on XJ front ends
You are right, It is weird how the pumpkin twists and the axle rotates threw the suspension cycle. I think the way my axle moves when flexing is Very odd, However it always twists in the favor of the drive-line
I FINALLY got some of the new RC flex joints, they are totally different and rubber not plastic like the old ones LOL, hopefully they last longer then the 1/2-3/4 of a trail like the other sets did...
I also reset my limit straps to give me full flex until about 2" before the spring falls off
CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 2,366
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From: Spanish Fork, Utah
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Renix 4.0L
Anyone know where i can get a new downpipe for my heep? From the exhaust mani to the cat. Where the driveshaft passes by mine, by the oil pan, it's almost pinched off
Last edited by dev_daddy; Apr 21, 2012 at 01:48 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,326
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From: Huricane, Utah
Year: 1994 Ford Bronco
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 351 W
Alright you giy have a question so obce in a,while when I push in the clutch and try and put in gear it just grinds and wont go in and so I let it out and push it in again it will go into to then while im driving and push in the clutch and come to a stop it kinda still rolls forward still while im in first gear and clutch is in so I have to pull really hard to get it out of gear and let the clutch out and push it in again and put it in gear and its fine for a while the starts all over again last time this happend I replaced my clutch the slave the throw out bearing and the pressure plate and went away now Its been10k miles and now its doing it again any suggestions its still under warranty
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,354
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From: vernal, utah
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,930
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From: herriman
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 855
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From: Taylorsville, UT
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 2,366
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From: Spanish Fork, Utah
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Renix 4.0L
Originally Posted by FloydXJ
They actually come stock like that. Apparently it was a clearance maneuver for the driveshaft by the factory, but once they are lifted I doubt it is so much of an issue.
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,968
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From: Salt Lake City, UT
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1079764
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,703
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From: Utardiland
Year: whats left of a 91
Model: Cherokee
Engine: one that makes noise
They are $60-$100 online. its called the "Intermediate pipe" from what I have found..... Cory said he replaced his once and Napa had it in stock.. He thought it was about 50$ or so....
http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1079764
http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1079764
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,968
Likes: 0
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L


