Not needed, Hiems are strong, they just have no give. So vibration and noise travels threw them. Thats not a problem, but some people think its annoying. When I re-due my Long arms I think I am going to go with 7/8ths Hiems on all sides (except axle upper since I have factory style mounts)

Solid Bushings - have a solid rubber bushing that dampens vibration and noise, giving it a softer feel and limiting the virbration from the axle moving and the road while driving. (also limits the amount of twist you can get out of the bushing, limiting flex)


JJ's - have a soft rubber bushing which dampens noise/vibration while alowing the joint to move more then a solid bushing would giving you more flex. Also limits the wear of twisting a bushing due to its more free movment. (ball and socket design)



Hiems - Move a lot, and are solid machined peices of metal that move a lot of degrees for the size of joint giving you mroe flex. They are very strong due to constance metal-metal contact (some have a kevlar liner to limit friction) the down side with these are that they transfer almost all vibrationa nd noise threw the joint and to the body/floor. when these fail they typicaly fully fail and no longer hold them selfs on the ball. (ball and socket design)



They all can last a VERY long time or VERY short depending on where/how they are used. But most of the life span expected is based on the quality of each joint, like most products.

Some will put a bushing on one side and depend ont eh othe side being a JJ/hiem to handle the flex trying to ge tthe best of both worlds. IMO for a oddroad vehicle, I want what will give me the most movement without binding and be the stronger choice. So hiem's are they way I think I'll go. I hate JJ's after my RC experience lol, But I did love the RE ones I used to have.....

Atleast thats how I understand it.

 

Ok good news. What if I use heims, and on both side of it a put in some rubber pieces? You think that would help with noise transfer? Like on motor mounts some have that additional rubber before the bracket that hold them?

 

Very good to know this will make it easer so I only have to order hiems then but have to eather buy upers or make them too

 

Might as well just make them also and go long arm sir.

 

I'm going to the part that hooks to axle is where I'm at think I have to end some flat stock

 

Where did you get that bumper? Or did you custom build it?

 

It's custom built, modeled after the TNT bumper

 

Hey angel you coming out on the 29th like to see u there

 

Alright you giy have a question so obce in a,while when I push in the clutch and try and put in gear it just grinds and wont go in and so I let it out and push it in again it will go into to then while im driving and push in the clutch and come to a stop it kinda still rolls forward still while im in first gear and clutch is in so I have to pull really hard to get it out of gear and let the clutch out and push it in again and put it in gear and its fine for a while the starts all over again last time this happend I replaced my clutch the slave the throw out bearing and the pressure plate and went away now Its been10k miles and now its doing it again any suggestions its still under warranty

 

Looks pretty sweet.

 

Where are you guys goin shawn?

 

We are going to 5 mile to run the snakes its for nebies and newly build rigs meet us at the 4 corners cheveron at 11:30

 

They aren't only for vibration - if you want to run all solid joints, you need to have a relatively bind-free set up. A 3 link or a radius arm with only ONE upper radius in use is about the only practical way to do that in the front. A full radius arm like most of us have or a 4 link will have binding during flex that will move stuff. The rubber bushings usually absorb the difference, but if you go all solid joints, it will be more likely to tear off a mount.
If you have, say, a radius arm set up, go flex it and check it out. If you stuff the driver tire and droop the passenger, you will find the driver upper arm is pulled toward the back and the passenger is is pushing forward.

I have only heard success stories of all solid joints when there is only one link on the top of the axle. And triangulated 4-links, but that is not practical on XJ front ends

 

Yeah, sounds like you are not getting full disengagement - you should bring it to the attention of whoever is supposedly warrantying it. I would guess it is slave cylinder related, like a leak, but I have no real experience with repairing the AX15 set up......yet

 

My blinker and run light has not worked on the right side when headlights on today the left is the same way now works fine when lights off anyone run into this problem ?