LAS VEGAS XJ GROUP-----> 1st ROLL CALL.
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 681
Likes: 1
From: errrvre where
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0L HO, JBA headers, 99 intake, #703 injectors
mine is just OEM replacement from oreillys. I just remembered your year. yours is going to use and external slave cylinder so that also will have to be purchaced seperate from the kit
clutch master
clutch slave
flywheel
clutch kit
you can get your flywheel resurfaced instead of buying one but from my experience its not much cheaper and usually it makes for atleast a day of down time for the rig.
oh and my clutch kit came with the wrong pilot bearing I didnt care because the clutch I was replacing only had like 5k on it but for you I would want to order a pilot bearing or make sure the kit has the right one.. it would suck to have to pull a tranny to replace a bearing the size of a dime lol
Iv done like 6 or so clutches over the years in my vehicles. I had a f150 and a runner whos met their life and started slipping. a high hp Fbody that spun the outer part of the clutch disk off of the inner part haha
a 76 toyota pick up with a 22ret and a newer dodge ram that grenaded the throw out bearing and took out the clutch fingers this is the toy
but this damn jeep has given me the most problems of all Multiple times iv driven home without a clutch lol
here is the inside of my clutch master. bent the guide rod around itself.
and here is the disk i blew up. cracks all over both sides of the inner disk and tossed a spring out.
you said you had problems getting in and out of some gears right? that sounds more like a hydraulic problem to me disengagement isnt really a clutch problem. I would start with the master and slave since they are easy. clutches are bad when the disk is worn and slips, the pressure plate is worn and slips, the brearings are bad an make noise or come apart like mine like to do, the disk coming apart can cause weird problems the loos parts in there can do whatever they want. my loose spring would either completely not let the clutch disengage because it was stuck inside the fingers and wouldnt let the slave press them down or would bounce around causing the clutch to engage and disengage on its own.
I would start with cheap and easy stuff and if that fails then drop the few hundred more and do the clutch itself
and since I already put a ton of pics in more pics yay
clutch master
clutch slave
flywheel
clutch kit
you can get your flywheel resurfaced instead of buying one but from my experience its not much cheaper and usually it makes for atleast a day of down time for the rig.
oh and my clutch kit came with the wrong pilot bearing I didnt care because the clutch I was replacing only had like 5k on it but for you I would want to order a pilot bearing or make sure the kit has the right one.. it would suck to have to pull a tranny to replace a bearing the size of a dime lol
Iv done like 6 or so clutches over the years in my vehicles. I had a f150 and a runner whos met their life and started slipping. a high hp Fbody that spun the outer part of the clutch disk off of the inner part haha
a 76 toyota pick up with a 22ret and a newer dodge ram that grenaded the throw out bearing and took out the clutch fingers this is the toy
but this damn jeep has given me the most problems of all Multiple times iv driven home without a clutch lol
here is the inside of my clutch master. bent the guide rod around itself.
and here is the disk i blew up. cracks all over both sides of the inner disk and tossed a spring out.
you said you had problems getting in and out of some gears right? that sounds more like a hydraulic problem to me disengagement isnt really a clutch problem. I would start with the master and slave since they are easy. clutches are bad when the disk is worn and slips, the pressure plate is worn and slips, the brearings are bad an make noise or come apart like mine like to do, the disk coming apart can cause weird problems the loos parts in there can do whatever they want. my loose spring would either completely not let the clutch disengage because it was stuck inside the fingers and wouldnt let the slave press them down or would bounce around causing the clutch to engage and disengage on its own.
I would start with cheap and easy stuff and if that fails then drop the few hundred more and do the clutch itself
and since I already put a ton of pics in more pics yay
also im not sure if i said this before but shes got a kick with every gear shift. if im sitting still i can shift smoothly untill it starts to loose pressure and grab again. when im moveing, every shift pops and then slides in. im not sure if this is because the clutch isnt opening all the way or if its my tranny.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 841
Likes: 0
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Engine: 4.0L
raceing huh.. i think a stock one will work just fine then. not trying to go crazy.. just wana be able to drive and wheel.. i dont think i have his number..
sounds like a pretty good kit, would you be able to link me?.. i was planning on replaceing the master/slave anyways.. and.. i have no idea what a puck design is.. just looking for something smooth enough for a DD..
sounds like a pretty good kit, would you be able to link me?.. i was planning on replaceing the master/slave anyways.. and.. i have no idea what a puck design is.. just looking for something smooth enough for a DD..
The one up front is obviously stock looking.
And Ill txt you his number if you want
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
From: Kansas City
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 182
Likes: 0
From: Covina, ca
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: inline 6 4.0 L
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 954
Likes: 1
From: Vegas
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
Originally Posted by Veachon
Wonder if it has the trac-loc diff. Mines an open diff and would like to change that. Just don't want to mess with gear mesh.
Ah it's finally installed !! and the damn thing ate a whole gallon of fluid plus the lsd additive haha
Looks like the flowmaster is going to have to come out for clerance. I just need to run hard lines and hook up my e brake cable once pay day hits. Then comes saving up for the front axle.
If anyone wants a free Dana 35 with 3.07s come pick it up. Needs brakes and a yoke.
If anyone wants bump stop plates for a d35/8.25 let me know. Slightly bent but easily straightened. $10 you come pick them up.
Last edited by The_ocho; Jan 13, 2013 at 10:14 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,415
Likes: 1
From: Las Vegas, NV
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Originally Posted by The_ocho
I'm pretty sure track lock was a d35 option idk about 8.25s.
Ah it's finally installed !! and the damn thing ate a whole gallon of fluid plus the lsd additive haha
Looks like the flowmaster is going to have to come out for clerance. I just need to run hard lines and hook up my e brake cable once pay day hits. Then comes saving up for the front axle.
If anyone wants a free Dana 35 with 3.07s come pick it up. Needs brakes and a yoke.
If anyone wants bump stop plates for a d35/8.25 let me know. Slightly bent but easily straightened. $10 you come pick them up.
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 681
Likes: 1
From: errrvre where
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0L HO, JBA headers, 99 intake, #703 injectors
agreed. looking at this, i shoulda went with this kit. i thought about it but opted out for lack of cash. should have waited haha.
lookin good man, cant wait to hit the trail with ya again.
lookin good man, cant wait to hit the trail with ya again.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 841
Likes: 0
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Engine: 4.0L
I'm pretty sure track lock was a d35 option idk about 8.25s.
Ah it's finally installed !! and the damn thing ate a whole gallon of fluid plus the lsd additive haha
Looks like the flowmaster is going to have to come out for clerance. I just need to run hard lines and hook up my e brake cable once pay day hits. Then comes saving up for the front axle.
If anyone wants a free Dana 35 with 3.07s come pick it up. Needs brakes and a yoke.
If anyone wants bump stop plates for a d35/8.25 let me know. Slightly bent but easily straightened. $10 you come pick them up.
Ah it's finally installed !! and the damn thing ate a whole gallon of fluid plus the lsd additive haha
Looks like the flowmaster is going to have to come out for clerance. I just need to run hard lines and hook up my e brake cable once pay day hits. Then comes saving up for the front axle.
If anyone wants a free Dana 35 with 3.07s come pick it up. Needs brakes and a yoke.
If anyone wants bump stop plates for a d35/8.25 let me know. Slightly bent but easily straightened. $10 you come pick them up.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 954
Likes: 1
From: Vegas
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
thanks mate
anyone want a flowmaster 40? make me an offer
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,415
Likes: 1
From: Las Vegas, NV
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Originally Posted by The_ocho
the kit is nice.. the whole reason I got it was for the truss it just makes the axle look so much better. It wasnt all that much more to ge the kit than individual parts but IDK if you reused your shock mounts and what not
Its an IRO truss. I cant think off the top of my head the axle tube size on a 8.25 but I dont think this truss will work on it. it fits the huge tubes of the 8.8 perfectly though. they do have a plate truss that would work im sure
thanks mate
ill shoot you a pm
anyone want a flowmaster 40? make me an offer
