LAS VEGAS XJ GROUP-----> 1st ROLL CALL.
looks like I wont be now. after getting the tcase in I noticed the yoke on my axle was tost. broke the ear off that holds the bearing cap in and I dont have a welder here or I would just weld the cap in. I guess whats why I lost a cap on the way home yesterday.

I guess I will be pushing today and tomorrow to get my 8.8 done and installed this weekend

I guess I will be pushing today and tomorrow to get my 8.8 done and installed this weekend
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 681
Likes: 1
From: errrvre where
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0L HO, JBA headers, 99 intake, #703 injectors
looks like I wont be now. after getting the tcase in I noticed the yoke on my axle was tost. broke the ear off that holds the bearing cap in and I dont have a welder here or I would just weld the cap in. I guess whats why I lost a cap on the way home yesterday.

I guess I will be pushing today and tomorrow to get my 8.8 done and installed this weekend

I guess I will be pushing today and tomorrow to get my 8.8 done and installed this weekend
I got it man. I should have thought to ask last night if anyone wanted to come over for a beer and BS while I did my SYE. the axle I'm just waiting till tonight when I can pick up the truss from my friend then weld it on. Iv got all the other stuff welded on. then I can paint and run the brake lines and itll be good to go. There is a very high chance I will have to cut out my flomaster 40 to clear the drive shaft so that may be going up for sale here pretty soon. Im just gonna toss a 10 series or maybe straight pipe it.
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 681
Likes: 1
From: errrvre where
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0L HO, JBA headers, 99 intake, #703 injectors
I got it man. I should have thought to ask last night if anyone wanted to come over for a beer and BS while I did my SYE. the axle I'm just waiting till tonight when I can pick up the truss from my friend then weld it on. Iv got all the other stuff welded on. then I can paint and run the brake lines and itll be good to go. There is a very high chance I will have to cut out my flomaster 40 to clear the drive shaft so that may be going up for sale here pretty soon. Im just gonna toss a 10 series or maybe straight pipe it.

on the downside today, i now have alot of work to do. i over extended my rear passenger shock and riped my front passenger off.. temp fix for now. thinking about new shocks, not sure what to go with. also comein down from a 6.5" to a 4.5" lift. i feel to tipy on things my friends just cruise right over.. im workin on getting a new clutch aswell.. i keep getting stuck in certin gears. anyone know a good clutch company to go with??
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 841
Likes: 0
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Engine: 4.0L
i woulda been down for some of that 
on the downside today, i now have alot of work to do. i over extended my rear passenger shock and riped my front passenger off.. temp fix for now. thinking about new shocks, not sure what to go with. also comein down from a 6.5" to a 4.5" lift. i feel to tipy on things my friends just cruise right over.. im workin on getting a new clutch aswell.. i keep getting stuck in certin gears. anyone know a good clutch company to go with??

on the downside today, i now have alot of work to do. i over extended my rear passenger shock and riped my front passenger off.. temp fix for now. thinking about new shocks, not sure what to go with. also comein down from a 6.5" to a 4.5" lift. i feel to tipy on things my friends just cruise right over.. im workin on getting a new clutch aswell.. i keep getting stuck in certin gears. anyone know a good clutch company to go with??
ax15 i would go with "exedy", and peugeot "sachs" brand
If I remember correctly, sachs is oem for the peugeot trans .sup Jon?
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 681
Likes: 1
From: errrvre where
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0L HO, JBA headers, 99 intake, #703 injectors

what about centerforce? i hear alot about them but not from people i know. just randos on other forums..
and not much man.. ****in **** up, workin, sleeping, and breakin the jeep. what about you?
i have an ax15. ill look them up. i want to replace everything. the pressure plate, friction disk, throw bearing and possibly the flywheel. along with the master/ slave cylinder. i feel like when i push the pedal down i loose pressure on the clutch. theres no bleeder screw on my slave cylinder for some reason.. 
what about centerforce? i hear alot about them but not from people i know. just randos on other forums..
and not much man.. ****in **** up, workin, sleeping, and breakin the jeep. what about you?

what about centerforce? i hear alot about them but not from people i know. just randos on other forums..
and not much man.. ****in **** up, workin, sleeping, and breakin the jeep. what about you?
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 841
Likes: 0
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Engine: 4.0L
i have an ax15. ill look them up. i want to replace everything. the pressure plate, friction disk, throw bearing and possibly the flywheel. along with the master/ slave cylinder. i feel like when i push the pedal down i loose pressure on the clutch. theres no bleeder screw on my slave cylinder for some reason.. 
what about centerforce? i hear alot about them but not from people i know. just randos on other forums..
and not much man.. ****in **** up, workin, sleeping, and breakin the jeep. what about you?

what about centerforce? i hear alot about them but not from people i know. just randos on other forums..
and not much man.. ****in **** up, workin, sleeping, and breakin the jeep. what about you?
Yeah like ocho said the stronger clutches like centerforce is gonna be more for racing applications. Anthony will know more about them then me.. You have his number?
Good to hear your not treating your jeep like a show truck
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 681
Likes: 1
From: errrvre where
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0L HO, JBA headers, 99 intake, #703 injectors
Im rocking a schacs in mine. kit came with everything but the flywheel and clutch master cylinder so i got those too. everything works great and It doesnt seem to have problems handling anything. when you start getting into heaver "stronger" clutches you are going to change a lot about your driveablility you will probably want to go with an after market larger bore clutch master too to compensate for the stiffer pressure plate and if you opt for a puck design (idk if they have any for our app) you will get a very grabby clutch feel
mine is just OEM replacement from oreillys. I just remembered your year. yours is going to use and external slave cylinder so that also will have to be purchaced seperate from the kit
clutch master
clutch slave
flywheel
clutch kit
you can get your flywheel resurfaced instead of buying one but from my experience its not much cheaper and usually it makes for atleast a day of down time for the rig.
oh and my clutch kit came with the wrong pilot bearing I didnt care because the clutch I was replacing only had like 5k on it but for you I would want to order a pilot bearing or make sure the kit has the right one.. it would suck to have to pull a tranny to replace a bearing the size of a dime lol
Iv done like 6 or so clutches over the years in my vehicles. I had a f150 and a runner whos met their life and started slipping. a high hp Fbody that spun the outer part of the clutch disk off of the inner part haha

a 76 toyota pick up with a 22ret and a newer dodge ram that grenaded the throw out bearing and took out the clutch fingers this is the toy

but this damn jeep has given me the most problems of all Multiple times iv driven home without a clutch lol
here is the inside of my clutch master. bent the guide rod around itself.

and here is the disk i blew up. cracks all over both sides of the inner disk and tossed a spring out.

you said you had problems getting in and out of some gears right? that sounds more like a hydraulic problem to me disengagement isnt really a clutch problem. I would start with the master and slave since they are easy. clutches are bad when the disk is worn and slips, the pressure plate is worn and slips, the brearings are bad an make noise or come apart like mine like to do, the disk coming apart can cause weird problems the loos parts in there can do whatever they want. my loose spring would either completely not let the clutch disengage because it was stuck inside the fingers and wouldnt let the slave press them down or would bounce around causing the clutch to engage and disengage on its own.
I would start with cheap and easy stuff and if that fails then drop the few hundred more and do the clutch itself
and since I already put a ton of pics in more pics yay



clutch master
clutch slave
flywheel
clutch kit
you can get your flywheel resurfaced instead of buying one but from my experience its not much cheaper and usually it makes for atleast a day of down time for the rig.
oh and my clutch kit came with the wrong pilot bearing I didnt care because the clutch I was replacing only had like 5k on it but for you I would want to order a pilot bearing or make sure the kit has the right one.. it would suck to have to pull a tranny to replace a bearing the size of a dime lol
Iv done like 6 or so clutches over the years in my vehicles. I had a f150 and a runner whos met their life and started slipping. a high hp Fbody that spun the outer part of the clutch disk off of the inner part haha

a 76 toyota pick up with a 22ret and a newer dodge ram that grenaded the throw out bearing and took out the clutch fingers this is the toy

but this damn jeep has given me the most problems of all Multiple times iv driven home without a clutch lol
here is the inside of my clutch master. bent the guide rod around itself.

and here is the disk i blew up. cracks all over both sides of the inner disk and tossed a spring out.

you said you had problems getting in and out of some gears right? that sounds more like a hydraulic problem to me disengagement isnt really a clutch problem. I would start with the master and slave since they are easy. clutches are bad when the disk is worn and slips, the pressure plate is worn and slips, the brearings are bad an make noise or come apart like mine like to do, the disk coming apart can cause weird problems the loos parts in there can do whatever they want. my loose spring would either completely not let the clutch disengage because it was stuck inside the fingers and wouldnt let the slave press them down or would bounce around causing the clutch to engage and disengage on its own.
I would start with cheap and easy stuff and if that fails then drop the few hundred more and do the clutch itself
and since I already put a ton of pics in more pics yay



Last edited by The_ocho; Jan 13, 2013 at 05:23 AM.
Originally Posted by The_ocho
mine is just OEM replacement from oreillys. I just remembered your year. yours is going to use and external slave cylinder so that also will have to be purchaced seperate from the kit
clutch master
clutch slave
flywheel
clutch kit
you can get your flywheel resurfaced instead of buying one but from my experience its not much cheaper and usually it makes for atleast a day of down time for the rig.
oh and my clutch kit came with the wrong pilot bearing I didnt care because the clutch I was replacing only had like 5k on it but for you I would want to order a pilot bearing or make sure the kit has the right one.. it would suck to have to pull a tranny to replace a bearing the size of a dime lol
Iv done like 6 or so clutches over the years in my vehicles. I had a f150 and a runner whos met their life and started slipping. a high hp Fbody that spun the outer part of the clutch disk off of the inner part haha
a 76 toyota pick up with a 22ret and a newer dodge ram that grenaded the throw out bearing and took out the clutch fingers this is the toy
but this damn jeep has given me the most problems of all Multiple times iv driven home without a clutch lol
here is the inside of my clutch master. bent the guide rod around itself.
and here is the disk i blew up. cracks all over both sides of the inner disk and tossed a spring out.
you said you had problems getting in and out of some gears right? that sounds more like a hydraulic problem to me disengagement isnt really a clutch problem. I would start with the master and slave since they are easy. clutches are bad when the disk is worn and slips, the pressure plate is worn and slips, the brearings are bad an make noise or come apart like mine like to do, the disk coming apart can cause weird problems the loos parts in there can do whatever they want. my loose spring would either completely not let the clutch disengage because it was stuck inside the fingers and wouldnt let the slave press them down or would bounce around causing the clutch to engage and disengage on its own.
I would start with cheap and easy stuff and if that fails then drop the few hundred more and do the clutch itself
and since I already put a ton of pics in more pics yay
clutch master
clutch slave
flywheel
clutch kit
you can get your flywheel resurfaced instead of buying one but from my experience its not much cheaper and usually it makes for atleast a day of down time for the rig.
oh and my clutch kit came with the wrong pilot bearing I didnt care because the clutch I was replacing only had like 5k on it but for you I would want to order a pilot bearing or make sure the kit has the right one.. it would suck to have to pull a tranny to replace a bearing the size of a dime lol
Iv done like 6 or so clutches over the years in my vehicles. I had a f150 and a runner whos met their life and started slipping. a high hp Fbody that spun the outer part of the clutch disk off of the inner part haha
a 76 toyota pick up with a 22ret and a newer dodge ram that grenaded the throw out bearing and took out the clutch fingers this is the toy
but this damn jeep has given me the most problems of all Multiple times iv driven home without a clutch lol
here is the inside of my clutch master. bent the guide rod around itself.
and here is the disk i blew up. cracks all over both sides of the inner disk and tossed a spring out.
you said you had problems getting in and out of some gears right? that sounds more like a hydraulic problem to me disengagement isnt really a clutch problem. I would start with the master and slave since they are easy. clutches are bad when the disk is worn and slips, the pressure plate is worn and slips, the brearings are bad an make noise or come apart like mine like to do, the disk coming apart can cause weird problems the loos parts in there can do whatever they want. my loose spring would either completely not let the clutch disengage because it was stuck inside the fingers and wouldnt let the slave press them down or would bounce around causing the clutch to engage and disengage on its own.
I would start with cheap and easy stuff and if that fails then drop the few hundred more and do the clutch itself
and since I already put a ton of pics in more pics yay





