What did you do to your XJ today??
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 661
Likes: 1
From: Federal Way, WA
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 6,989
Likes: 4
From: Oak Harbor, WA.
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 liter RENIX I-6, DIY Cold Air Intake, 2.5 FM Exhaust, 3 Core Radiator
Update to the brake issue I have been dealing with in my 91 XJ. last night I removed the dirty brake fluid from the small front (rear circuit) resevoir in the MC. I took the rear circuit apart where the flex line connects to the hard line at the framerail. I blew high pressure air threw the hardline going to the rear from the MC. I did it from front to rear. Then I did it rear to front. Then I removed the bleeder screw from the right rear wheel cylinder. I blew from the upper end of the rear flex hose through to the right rear wheel cylinder with high pressure air both ways. I reinstalled the right rear bleeder and removed the left rear bleeder and did the high pressure air thing again. I saw some of the nastiest, rusty, sludgey crap come blowing out of those lines, I'd ever seen. In the process, I noticed the junction block where the rear flex hose connects to the axle and the lines to the 2 rear wheels, was loose. I tightened that securely. I also put all of the brakelines back together. I bled the brakes with brand new fresh brake fluid. The Brakes do feel a little more solid and the Brake dash light did go out and not come back on but, the pedal is still lower than I'm used to in this Jeep. I believe it was probably seeping just a little bit out of that rear brake junction but, I also believe the line was clogged with rusty sludge and had some air in there too. I removed the rear wheels and drums to see what kinda mess I had to deal with in there after Rimrock. My guess was right. They were both packed with that nasty sticky mud. I sprayed out both sides with high pressure water and then high pressure air. Then I hit both sides with brake parts cleaner and air again. The wheel cylinders were not leaking around the pistons. This was a good thing as I had just installed them new before the Elbe trip back in May. The bad news is I had also just installed new rear brake shoes at that same time. They were the cheapy Value Craft crap from Autozone. So I got what I'd paid for. The rear brake shoes were completely gone...as in into the rivets on both sides. Pretty crappy considering a couple thousand highway miles and 2 wheeling trips are about all those brakes had on them. So, I figure I will get a little more of my pedal height back once I swap in the new rear brake shoes and adjust them correctly. I've already been on the phone to the local Parts Plus here in Oak Harbor so, I know I'm getting better brake shoes this time. I will give you all another update after the new shoes are installed to let you all know if my brakes are back to normal.
I would suggest to any of you guys who know you have all good brake componants but still have that spongey feeling pedal in your Jeep Cherokee, that you remove the lines at the MC or combo valve, whichever you prefer, and remove all four of your caliper and wheel cylinder bleeder screws and blow all of the lines out really good with shop air. Then, connect all of your lines securely and reinstall all bleeders and fill and bleed your system with fresh brake fluid. I guarantee you, like me, will see 20+ years worth of rust and sludge come spraying out of those lines when that shop air hits them.
I would suggest to any of you guys who know you have all good brake componants but still have that spongey feeling pedal in your Jeep Cherokee, that you remove the lines at the MC or combo valve, whichever you prefer, and remove all four of your caliper and wheel cylinder bleeder screws and blow all of the lines out really good with shop air. Then, connect all of your lines securely and reinstall all bleeders and fill and bleed your system with fresh brake fluid. I guarantee you, like me, will see 20+ years worth of rust and sludge come spraying out of those lines when that shop air hits them.
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,339
Likes: 0
From: Yakima
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
screw the drum brakes, time for a disc brake upgrade. My cousin did his in a day, on a d35. easy peasy. I think the d44 swap is the same as the 8.25 swap. not sure tho.
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,842
Likes: 0
From: Woodinville, Bothell and Marysville Washington
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0
Originally Posted by OleBlue
screw the drum brakes, time for a disc brake upgrade. My cousin did his in a day, on a d35. easy peasy. I think the d44 swap is the same as the 8.25 swap. not sure tho.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 15,581
Likes: 8
From: some small town oregon
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 15,581
Likes: 8
From: some small town oregon
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by CowboyXJ
Its a pop up and pops out. Im picking up seals in the morning.
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
From: Hillsboro
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Originally Posted by odgreen89on35s
Hauled the jet ski with it
I am interested in getting a new drivers seat..and I liked the corbeau xrs but I heard it was a little big..and xj's are not Really in the seating area.
Not interested in spending cash to have a hard time getting them in.
Last edited by johnwdillon; Aug 18, 2012 at 03:39 AM.
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
From: Hillsboro
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Originally Posted by johnwdillon
Did you have any issues installing the seats?
I am interested in getting a new drivers seat..and I liked the corbeau xrs but I heard it was a little big..and xj's are not Really in the seating area.
Not interested in spending cash to have a hard time getting them in.
Never mind.
Good looking truck though.




















