Cant wait to get my 6" longarm kit. Soon... Very soon.

 

Reinstalled my right front shock absorber that came undone today. Was wondering why the steering was sticking. The upper nut, bushing and washer have left the building. Luckily, I had another nut, large washer and bottle of Loctite. Now I get to call Quadratec and whinge and beg for some new hardware and bushings.

 

Yea Cherokees are known for doing that

 

Maybe I should go crying to Chrysler then. LOL! Actually, I was going back thru my maintenance records (yes, I am THAT geeky), and I've not only put a lot of miles on it since installing the shocks, a lot of that's been off road. Therefore, I have no room to complain and shall shut the F up. /whine

 

Ordered new parts!!!

 

Backed into a ford flex today

 

Sliced all the sagging spots in my headliner and sprayed the crap out of it with adhesive stuff. Looks ghetto, but it no longer hangs down barely brushing the top my head annoying the **** out of me. Haha

 

I gotta do that. Again. Looking at using the actual Loctite Headliner spray adhesive. Heard it's the only thing that'll hold up. Too late, I know, but it's not too hard to get all the trim off around the edges to avoid having to slice it.

 

Used 3M headliner adhesive?

 

I plan to use Loctite 37312 headliner spray adhesive. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LCT-37312/ Spendy, but all spray adhesive is. I used 3M77 and it didn't last a year. I have 3M90, but even it says not for use on automotive headliners (plus, it sprays on so unevenly). I guess the fire retardant they use on the cloth repels the glue. TOTALLY a guess, but based on doing some interior work.

 

Get to see my axles tomorrow

 

I was lazy and didn't want to remove pieces. It already looked horrible. Maybe someday I'll redo the whole thing and make it look nice. Doubt it, but maybe if this fix doesn't hold up.

 

No doubt. There are a lot more fun things you can do to a Cherokee than redo the headliner.

 

That's cheap....lol

3M 38808 been using it for years and holds great. I guess as long as you do it right the first time....my dad has used it since his late 20s and never had a complaint.

http://m.oreillyauto.com/mt/www.orei...0019&ppt=C0326

 

Last night I did a lot of reading and research about a system I've always thought was quite simple. However, the Brakes on my XJ have got me stumped. After developing a spongey pedal I went with the typical "look over everything for leaks" troubleshooting. When I didn't find anything leaking anywhere I logically assumed, since it did have a little pedal at the very bottom of the stroke that the Vacuum Booster was bad. I swapped that out and had no change so I figured the piston cup in the MC was letting the fluid by hence the spongey pedal and no leaking. I was just days away from a weekend campout and wheeling run 200 miles away in Elbe so i threw the new MC at it. Also in the process I found my rear brakes to be totally inop. and the drums were packed tight with mud. I clean it all out and installed new wheel cylinders and brake shoes to both sides. Here is where I started getting P.O.'d. After all of that I had the same spongey pedal with the Brake dash light coming on. The brakes would always stop the Jeep but at the very bottom of the pedal stroke and with fast pumping would pump up. The next brake application it would go right back to the floor with the brake dash light on again. I did a little research online and found procedures for upping the pressure to rear brakes after an axle upgrade. So, i removed the little rubber cup from the piston in the Proportioning Valve and then bled the PV and then bled the brakes. This at first appeared to fix the problem. I had a nice hard pedal while sitting in the driveway. As soon as I took the Jeep out of the driveway for a test drive at the first stop. The pedal went spongey, brake dash light came on and the jeep finally stopped with the pedal on the floor, again. This brake discrepancy has really got this backyard mechanic stumped. If any of you guys have heard of anything that you know that will fix this problem then please let me know. My next step in troubleshooting is going to be to remove the brakeline going to the rear brakes at the PV and at the rear flex hose and blow it out with compressed air. Then open the bleed screws to left then right rear brakes and blow them out individually with compressed air. all i can think of is that I've got some crud or rust in a brakeline somewhere in the system that is blocking proper operatrion and keeping air in the line somewhere.