aonother solution is to drill the nut to 7/16 and retap it, but if the weld broke that wont work

 

Ole Red came to me without carpet so that should make it much easier for me.

 

So you were able to run long bolts through the frame rail and out the other side and torque them tight without squishing the frame rail with no spacer?

 

we didnt torque them but the are definately tight. It wont squish the frame lol, tighten them evenly.

 

I just went and bought four 7/16"x 2" grade 8 flange bolts and nuts. I will drill the holes for the cross member out to 1/2". I think that should be plenty beefey enough to hold my Jeep together through any kind wheeling.

 

2"? that's probably way to short unless you are doing it. a different way than I suggested.

 

I am buddy. I'm going to go with cutting a small hole in the side of each frame rail between the holes. That method has always worked good for me. Thanks for the suggestion, though. I always respect and appreciate any suggestions from you.

 

right on, hope it works out for ya! get anymore progress on her this weekend? 5 weeks to go!

 

Nah, this weekend was crappy. Had to work Saturday then had wedding to go to on Sunday. I will chip away a little more at it tonight after work. Should be able to finish up this cross member issue and move on to the oil pan gaaket and rear main seal. I still need to get my 3 core radiator out of my white Jeep and put in Ole Red, too.

 

But that can wait until I get the lift, axles, wheels and tires put. I'm getting real tired of walking in to my shop and seeing Ole Red sitting on those Jackstands.

 

lol I bet poor jeep.

 

Okay so the unplanned Transfer case and cross member fiasco is done. I went with cutting a 1" x 4" hole in each side of my frame and then drilling the holes in the cross member and frame out to 1/2" so 7/16" grade 8 flange bolts and nuts could be used to secure the cross member. It's all torqued and very secure. I won't worry about it no matter how crossed up I get my Jeep. Plus when I install my belly skid plate it will be even stronger and better protected. Here are some pictures of my progression through the cross member fix process. Now I need to get my rear main seal and oil pan gasket replaced and then I will get on with installing the new lift and my axles.

 

Okay guys I got the oil pan pulled off and the rear main cap removed. I started the slow and tedious project of chiseling off an old skool cork gasket that looks like it was baked on like it could have been the factory original....LOL. slow very very tedious process. The good news is as you all can see from the picture, the bottom end of the motor looks really good and clean. The bearings are all in good shape and there was no metal in the pan. Half of the oil pan bolts were less than finger tight so it, too, along with the valve cover gasket and oil filter adapter, was adding to the oil leaks this thing had when I bought it. All looked good in where the rear main seal goes. I will get the oil pan gasket surface cleaned up, the rear main seal swapped out and the new oil pan gasket put on tomorrow night. Hopefully the parts store will have my new WIX oil filter I ordered and I can get it and the new oil put in and fire it up tomorrow.

 

Are you going to weld a plate back over this incision you've created here? Great progress, installing the suspension should be a piece of cake now! Are you going with a long arm setup?

 

Nope, not welding plates over my crossmember bolt access holes. Between the rocksliders and belly skid plate my Jeep will have plenty of protection and strength in that area. The holes look way bigger in the pictures than they really are. Nope, no long arm kit. I will have Rough Country HD adjustable control arms with Currie "johnny" joints and 6.5" coils and 2" spacers.