XJ current drain when off
Thread Starter
Member

Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 203
Likes: 10
From: Vancouver, BC
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
My new battery will drain down after a week of sitting, I have had both the battery and alternator tested. Battery is good, diode pattern and alternator output is good.
I have a 0.167Amp current draw with the key off. If I pull out the 40Amp Maxi-Fuse (engine bay fuse block) for the Headlamp system the current draw drops down to 0.013A (All good). I've tried pulling out every fuse in the smaller fuse block near my feet, nothing changes on the multimeter. I removed the headlight switch to check for burned wiring or damaged connector. Everything was OK, it is an oem jeep headlight switch.
With the headlight switch unplugged, there is still a current drain of 0.17 amps. (Same as before). I'm trying to find a headlight switch wiring diagram online for the XJ so I can show you guys what I found at each pin. For now I will refer to wire color.
The only wires that had values of resistance was the Orange/Black @ 5.5Ohm, Brown @ 5.5Ohm, Black/Red @ 2.2Ohm. All of the other wires just showed infinite resistance on my DMM.
There was 12V at the Yellow wire, Black/Yellow wire, Pink/Black, and the Red/White. (Key in off position)
At the actual headlight connector, I have 29.6Ohm/0.076A on the high beam terminal. 5.9Ohm/0.008A on the low beam terminal. 3.7Ohm/0.012A at the common terminal.
I'm hoping someone knowledgeable might be able to look at this and know what's going on. I'm going to dig into some wiring diagrams and see what I can find. Thank you!
I have a 0.167Amp current draw with the key off. If I pull out the 40Amp Maxi-Fuse (engine bay fuse block) for the Headlamp system the current draw drops down to 0.013A (All good). I've tried pulling out every fuse in the smaller fuse block near my feet, nothing changes on the multimeter. I removed the headlight switch to check for burned wiring or damaged connector. Everything was OK, it is an oem jeep headlight switch.
With the headlight switch unplugged, there is still a current drain of 0.17 amps. (Same as before). I'm trying to find a headlight switch wiring diagram online for the XJ so I can show you guys what I found at each pin. For now I will refer to wire color.
The only wires that had values of resistance was the Orange/Black @ 5.5Ohm, Brown @ 5.5Ohm, Black/Red @ 2.2Ohm. All of the other wires just showed infinite resistance on my DMM.
There was 12V at the Yellow wire, Black/Yellow wire, Pink/Black, and the Red/White. (Key in off position)
At the actual headlight connector, I have 29.6Ohm/0.076A on the high beam terminal. 5.9Ohm/0.008A on the low beam terminal. 3.7Ohm/0.012A at the common terminal.
I'm hoping someone knowledgeable might be able to look at this and know what's going on. I'm going to dig into some wiring diagrams and see what I can find. Thank you!
"I have a 0.167Amp current draw with the key off"
I would say anything more than .25 amp draw key off would cause a problem. What you have is about normal and to be expected with a digital vehicle system. Everything with an IC after a brief period of time goes into a "sleep" mode, PCM, remote locks, headlight delay, radio presets, etc. You will never get a value of zero current draw key off. Just a guess your battery is probably on it's way out. If you plan to let it sit a week, either disconnect the battery or hook up a trickle charger.
I would say anything more than .25 amp draw key off would cause a problem. What you have is about normal and to be expected with a digital vehicle system. Everything with an IC after a brief period of time goes into a "sleep" mode, PCM, remote locks, headlight delay, radio presets, etc. You will never get a value of zero current draw key off. Just a guess your battery is probably on it's way out. If you plan to let it sit a week, either disconnect the battery or hook up a trickle charger.
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 3,074
Likes: 0
From: Bergen County, New Jersey U.S.A.
Year: 1990 Laredo
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Inline 6 Renix
like stated above it is normal ..if you plan on letting your jeep sit for weeks at a time invest in a tickle charger there pretty cheap... it will keep your battery healthy and you won't be left with a dead battery...
My new battery will drain down after a week of sitting, I have had both the battery and alternator tested. Battery is good, diode pattern and alternator output is good.
I have a 0.167Amp current draw with the key off. If I pull out the 40Amp Maxi-Fuse (engine bay fuse block) for the Headlamp system the current draw drops down to 0.013A (All good). I've tried pulling out every fuse in the smaller fuse block near my feet, nothing changes on the multimeter. I removed the headlight switch to check for burned wiring or damaged connector. Everything was OK, it is an oem jeep headlight switch.
With the headlight switch unplugged, there is still a current drain of 0.17 amps. (Same as before). I'm trying to find a headlight switch wiring diagram online for the XJ so I can show you guys what I found at each pin. For now I will refer to wire color.
The only wires that had values of resistance was the Orange/Black @ 5.5Ohm, Brown @ 5.5Ohm, Black/Red @ 2.2Ohm. All of the other wires just showed infinite resistance on my DMM.
There was 12V at the Yellow wire, Black/Yellow wire, Pink/Black, and the Red/White. (Key in off position)
At the actual headlight connector, I have 29.6Ohm/0.076A on the high beam terminal. 5.9Ohm/0.008A on the low beam terminal. 3.7Ohm/0.012A at the common terminal.
I'm hoping someone knowledgeable might be able to look at this and know what's going on. I'm going to dig into some wiring diagrams and see what I can find. Thank you!
I have a 0.167Amp current draw with the key off. If I pull out the 40Amp Maxi-Fuse (engine bay fuse block) for the Headlamp system the current draw drops down to 0.013A (All good). I've tried pulling out every fuse in the smaller fuse block near my feet, nothing changes on the multimeter. I removed the headlight switch to check for burned wiring or damaged connector. Everything was OK, it is an oem jeep headlight switch.
With the headlight switch unplugged, there is still a current drain of 0.17 amps. (Same as before). I'm trying to find a headlight switch wiring diagram online for the XJ so I can show you guys what I found at each pin. For now I will refer to wire color.
The only wires that had values of resistance was the Orange/Black @ 5.5Ohm, Brown @ 5.5Ohm, Black/Red @ 2.2Ohm. All of the other wires just showed infinite resistance on my DMM.
There was 12V at the Yellow wire, Black/Yellow wire, Pink/Black, and the Red/White. (Key in off position)
At the actual headlight connector, I have 29.6Ohm/0.076A on the high beam terminal. 5.9Ohm/0.008A on the low beam terminal. 3.7Ohm/0.012A at the common terminal.
I'm hoping someone knowledgeable might be able to look at this and know what's going on. I'm going to dig into some wiring diagrams and see what I can find. Thank you!
Thread Starter
Member

Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 203
Likes: 10
From: Vancouver, BC
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
No other vehicle I own will kill a battery if left for a week. If I unplug that 40amp headlight circuit fuse the Jeep will sit happily for three weeks and still crank up fine.
That makes me think something is wrong, like JJCIII said. Thanks for the replies though!
That makes me think something is wrong, like JJCIII said. Thanks for the replies though!
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 47,923
Likes: 38
From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
Looking for this ....http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm
Last edited by freegdr; Dec 23, 2012 at 03:53 PM.
Thread Starter
Member

Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 203
Likes: 10
From: Vancouver, BC
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
^^ Thank you, great link!
I realized I should have a DRL module being Canadian so I unplugged it to test and the current dropped back down to a low level. That would explain why my DRLs never worked before and the draw, must be an internal short of some sort.
I bypassed it temporarily with a trick I found, pin1 to pin 4 allows normal functioning lights without drl.
Problem solved!
I realized I should have a DRL module being Canadian so I unplugged it to test and the current dropped back down to a low level. That would explain why my DRLs never worked before and the draw, must be an internal short of some sort.
I bypassed it temporarily with a trick I found, pin1 to pin 4 allows normal functioning lights without drl.
Problem solved!
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CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 3,074
Likes: 0
From: Bergen County, New Jersey U.S.A.
Year: 1990 Laredo
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Inline 6 Renix
^^ Thank you, great link!
I realized I should have a DRL module being Canadian so I unplugged it to test and the current dropped back down to a low level. That would explain why my DRLs never worked before and the draw, must be an internal short of some sort.
I bypassed it temporarily with a trick I found, pin1 to pin 4 allows normal functioning lights without drl.
Problem solved!
I realized I should have a DRL module being Canadian so I unplugged it to test and the current dropped back down to a low level. That would explain why my DRLs never worked before and the draw, must be an internal short of some sort.
I bypassed it temporarily with a trick I found, pin1 to pin 4 allows normal functioning lights without drl.
Problem solved!
Thread Starter
Member

Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 203
Likes: 10
From: Vancouver, BC
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
I never knew either, because they never worked in the years I've had my XJ. But then while tracing this problem down I realized being a Canadian Jeep it should have had them.
DRLs are mandatory after a certain date/year, you will fail an inspection if a police officer hands you a ticket/inspection ticket. Apparently they reduce head on collisions?
DRLs are mandatory after a certain date/year, you will fail an inspection if a police officer hands you a ticket/inspection ticket. Apparently they reduce head on collisions?
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