I'm in Indiana but i think if its federal taxes it wouldn't matter what state its in.

I am just going to use it for parts but it still sounds a bit like a shady deal. Gonna meet the guy today. Probably won't pursue this though. Thanks.

 

If it has a tax lean on the title then it is not owned by the person who is trying to sell it. Whom ever the lean holder is owns it, bank, state gov. or fed gov., or pawn shop. Have them clear up the lean before you buy it. Or deduct the amount that is owed in taxes from the selling price and go that route.

 

I just replaced the balljoints (tested them by jacking up the front end and pushing/pulling at 12 and 6 oclock position on the tire - had the wheel moving in and out .5") as well as replacing the u-joint. My turning is now crisp and smooth and no clunks at all. Might be worth it to check them out.

 

HEY anyone of you guys know what mm thickness the front sway bar is?

I plan on getting Moog brand from advanced but there are 24, 26, and 28mm.

My bushings are shot and I am going to buy some tomorrow,

Thanks all.

 

thanks, ill check that out too.

 

you have to measure. Jeep mixed and matched them with no discernible method when the built XJs, so it's a crapshoot which one you have.

Either use calipers, or a crescent wrench to measure the diameter at the bushing

 

Oh alright... lol.
Thanks.

 

Yep, i had to so the same thing on mine

 

I own that exact same welder. It works great. Do yourself a favor and read the instruction booklet all the way through. There are reviews about that welder where people assumed just because they knew how to use a welder and then just started using it without reading the instructions, you can tell by their ******* reasons for hating on it. ie. wire speed controller mainly. If you don't understand how to use it properly, you will be one of the people that hate on this welder too.

When welding thin sheet metal you do not run one continuous bead, you will create too much heat and warp the fire out of anything you are trying to weld. You need to put several tacks together to make a 'continuous' bead, at least with this welder you need to. You can weld 1/2" thick steel or more with this welder with proper preparations. I make 1/2" thick AR500 targets for shooting so I know that it can do the job. For thicker welding you need to prepare the steel first by - beveling the welded seams - in fact beveling any seam in any gage material (sans sheet metal or 16 gage and thinner) is good practice so as to get the best penetration. A 1/4" chamfer will work just fine on 1/2" plate. Also PREHEAT any seam you intend to weld - not cherry red but too hot to touch, a propane torch is fine. This will help the little welder lay down a very nice bead.
Keep in mind when using flux-core, you need to chip off the flux after the weld has cooled somewhat. The flux will cool and come to the surface and make a hard coating over the weld that will need to be removed before welding over or even painting. I happen to know this welder comes with a 'chipping' hammer to do such a thing, it's ok but HF also sells a much better version. The only other things I can say for now is to toss the wire it comes with and buy some good lincoln wire or similar (lowes/homedepot). Make sure you have this welder plugged into a dedicated 10amp outlet and any extension cords that you may use are a thicker gage (the instruction book lists what to use, follow their instructions) Also the shielding mask that is included makes a better blow-gun target than a welding mask. Go ahead and get the auto-darkening helmet that HF carries, it's the best $49 welding helmet you can buy and you will thank me later.

If you'd like more info pm me.

 

How do you enter COTM?

 

It's listed at the top of this page. >->https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f54/

 

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f9/nee...ticker-149743/

 

So.I'm a college student, and am in the manual machine shop. I'm pretty good on all the machines as I've been machining since I was a freshman in high school. But my instructor has given us the okay to make our own projects once we finish the required ones. What are some projects you guys know of that I could make in the shop??

 

Some adjustable coil spacers

 

I drove the post salt water bath XJ today and all electronics are working, thanks to new fuse junction box, and it runs fine. It has developed a very loud noise from under the hood. Almost sounds like bearings going out on the alternator or AC compressor. The alternator took a bath in the salt water. The compressor did not. I'm trying to post a video on youtube so you can have a listen.

You can see in the video that I need to replace the alternator which I will do tomorrow. Any thoughts on the loud noise. You can tell the sound is louder on the alternator side. Alternator bearing maybe?

Thanks

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kBjy9...ature=youtu.be