If you are in stock arms then yes you will need new lowers. Probably new shocks atleast for the rear too.

 

I have rubicon express arms that are slightly longer and bent for the lift. I have pro comp mx6 adjustable shocks that I believe can go up to 5 inches??? Never messed with them though :/

 

This might help you a bit. http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/..._Arm_Chart.htm

 

Are any of yall from NC or SC have yall ever been to Carolina Backwoods Offroad park? Its right on the border close to calabash i was wondering if yall had ever been there or wheeled there and what yall though of it
Thanks

 

I'm in SC and have friends that went. They had a great time. Best part is the 4wheeling. Bring a couple 4 wheelers, your Jeep, and lots of gas and you'll have an awesome time

 

yeah i wanna take my jeep, but havent heard much about the park.

 

so ive been searching high and low, trying to figure out what tires i can actually run on my xj, 93 2dr, without a straight answer, no flares, cut fenders, 3 inch lift, but wondering how wide tires i can run on stock rims without hitting, the leaf is my biggest issues it apears, since i olny have 2 finger width between leaf and tire currently, before lift is installed.i can get a steal on a set of 33/12.5/15's but do i need soft 8's with spacers to run them? what are my options here?

 

No way on 33s. You can run 30x9.5x15 quite comfortably on stock, 31x10.5x15 on stock rims might rub a bit on hard turns and if you really stuff them, add some backspacing to reduce rubbing on turns.

 

Well here's the thing, you need atleast a rim that's 8 inches wide minimum for a 12.5 tire and even that's pushing it. The best solution is any 15x10 rim with a 4 inch backspacing. They don't need to be soft 8s and spacers will only give an additional fraction of an inch to your current rims backspace.

 

A lot of people on here run a 12.5 tire on an 8" wheel. I'd say 8" to 10" is acceptable with a 12.5" tire, and the 10" wheel is more likely to pop a bead.

 

i'd say a 12.5 on a 7" wheel is acceptable also...


but then again I'm a bit crazy...

 

Are lift blocks really that bad I'm looking into a trade my Honda this guys xj but it's a spacer and block lift it's abought 4 inches all together it's sitting on 33s

 

Blocks suck. If you get it swap them out as soon as you can.

deohagi geugeos-eun dangsin-ege jasig paeg-eul guchughal su-issneun gihoeleul jegonghabnida....... Sorry you should be able to read that lol

 

A lot of people get away with spacers up front, these give you more height but without increasing flex and articulation. If he blocked the rear I'd be concerned that the shocks are not set up for the extra height, and I doubt that steering and front suspension had been corrected (drag link angle, track bar, control arms). Block lifts are super cheap and I would be really surprised if someone who did that knew or cared enough to fix everything else that needs addressing when you lift a vehicle. It probably rides like crap with drive line vibes and death wobble.

Specifically the issue with rear blocks is that they increase the distance between to leaf springs and the axle, exacerbating the problem of axle wrap. With the sort or torque applied off road or in agressive street driving the leaf springs get curved into an S shape because the axle keeps trying to bend it.

 

Whats up every one i have a 99 cherokee water in the oil i have done the head gasket once already as well as had the head shaved at the same time just to find out it was still leaking oil in the water . I figured water was going in ti the cylinders as it began stalling on the way home i removed the head again last night and all the cylinders were dry and had carbon on them (head and pistons) the gasket still looked brnd new does anyone have an idea where this leak might be